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Post by rks on May 24, 2016 15:56:48 GMT -6
Actually, it's a Valero station......but the pump is clearly labeled at the ethanol free hose "Not a Valero Product". So I don't know who refines it. I do know that after 4 riding seasons, 4 winter hibernations, and 9500 miles clocked, I still haven't needed to clean the carb.....course, that's probably due to the fraction of an ounce of Marvel Mystery Oil, I add at each fueling.
Still feel that non ethanol, produces more power, delivers more mpg, doesn't separate, doesn't eat rubber components, etc, etc
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Post by rks on May 24, 2016 12:10:57 GMT -6
Is there a chance that the mid grade you bought is ethanol free? That is the way it is at my favorite station, three different grades, all come from separate hoses......regular, and high test are ethanol blended, And the mid grade, (91 octane) is real gas, or in other words, ethanol free.
I won't put anything but ethanol free gas in any of my bikes.....it may cost 50 cents more per gallon, but like cyborg said.....I notice the difference. It is an added bonus if you can find a place like mine, that has dedicated hoses for each grade, that way you won't end up with a half gallon of regular that was left in the hose from the last customer.
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Post by rks on May 23, 2016 5:26:59 GMT -6
Spring is finally here, and so are higher gas prices. Paid $3.099 a gallon for non ethanol yesterday........will probably be back up to the $3.50 range soon. Oh well, I guess if you want to dance, you have to pay the fiddler.
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Post by rks on May 22, 2016 6:24:24 GMT -6
sillylittleboy.....sounds to me like you and your new scooter will get along just fine. You don't need Vespa, Honda, Yamaha, or similar badging, to have a truly enjoyable, dependable, ride. A little common sense goes a long way......seems you've got that covered.
Have fun with it....be safe
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Post by rks on Apr 30, 2016 17:10:30 GMT -6
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Post by rks on Mar 19, 2016 16:18:27 GMT -6
" As far as the tube coming from the valve cover goes, I just zip tie it to the frame, right? I read you shouldn't block it."
You are right.... don't block it......must be allowed to breathe. When I switched to a cone filter, I installed a 'catch can' on the end of the crankcase vent hose.....instead of allowing it to drip on the ground, or all over the underside of the scooter. Also, this lets me monitor the amount of blowby. " ![]() i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/rks3526/Breather%20Catch%20Can/IMG_0074.jpg" |
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Post by rks on Jan 10, 2016 5:17:08 GMT -6
Ya might try this place. First, get the number off of your current battery, so you get a replacement that fits your scooter correctly. I got one from here a couple of seasons ago. Really didn't expect it to survive the first winter layover, but it did.....and worked fine all of this past riding season. Will see how it does come spring......but for only $23, I don't believe it owes me a bunch. link |
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Post by rks on Dec 26, 2015 9:14:52 GMT -6
Have to agree with you. There are great bikes to be found out there, and no real need to spend big bucks to own a real nice motorcycle. My newest BMW, is nearly 16 years old, doesn't have a scratch or scuff on it, and runs oh so sweet......I paid less for it, than the MSRP of a base model 150 Honda PCX with the destination charge included. The older one was $1500 more, had a couple of dents and a scrape from being dropped, and flaking chrome spoked wheels, but had only 5700 miles on it. Many of it's short comings have been corrected....it too runs super....now, I can't bring myself to part with either....even though I know I don't need two.
As far as riding with the $20,000 bike crowd.....they must be a few bricks shy of a full load.....so not the kind of folks I need to be around.
But then again.....they probably feel the same way about me.
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Post by rks on Dec 21, 2015 7:47:32 GMT -6
If you reduce the distance a tire travels per revolution by 9 or 10%, (as you will be replacing a 4.00 x 12, with a 120/70 x 12), it only makes sense that you will have to spin it 9 or 10% faster, to cover the same amount of ground, in the same amount of time. That can be quite a difference in rpm's by the time you get to your normal road speed.
Of course, this could be compensated for, by going to heavier weights in the variator.
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Post by rks on Dec 18, 2015 6:37:49 GMT -6
As jtc842 said, helmet sizing is a crap shoot.....But I've found there are some online retailers that offer free return shipping on helmets and apparel. Upon opening an order of motorcycle parts from Dennis Kirk, there was included in the paperwork, a return UPS shipping label, with instructions stating what I said above. I didn't realize anyone offered this kind of service until recently, and think it would be a big factor if I were buying a helmet online.
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Post by rks on Dec 17, 2015 7:59:58 GMT -6
With the puller in place and snugged down nicely, a sharp rap on the end of the puller with a hammer, will usually shock a splined connection loose. Heat applied with a propane torch, to the area surrounding the axle, with the puller applying pressure will help too.
Reassembly will be a snap......I would suggest an anti-seize / never-seize type of product, rather than grease.
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Post by rks on Dec 14, 2015 5:00:13 GMT -6
Same here.....if so, you have one of the three clutch pads that is in contact with the drum at all times....not being pulled back in away from the drum at idle speed. This will cause more heat build up while stopped, or anytime engine is idling. Once underway, there isn't a problem with one missing spring, but you'll want to get things right soon.
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Post by rks on Dec 14, 2015 4:17:28 GMT -6
Maybe, I spoke before I should have! So, looking at the calculations that rks put up "110x100x12" , the 100 refers to diameter? You guys must be exasperated by me. I think I conceptualize visually so, I have a hard time bringing it all together in my mind. A tire stamped 110x100x12, is 110 milimeters wide......the side wall is 100% as high as the tire width....and the wheel is 12 inches in diameter. The middle number is always the sidewall measurement, expressed as a percentage of the tire width. In the chart I posted earlier, the diameter of each tire size is listed in inches, followed by the letter "T" Now, multiply the diameter by 3.14 to get the circumference, in inches, (the distance the tire will travel in one revolution) Divide 63,360 (the number of inches in a mile), by the tire's circumference, and you'll have the revolutions per mile for that tire. So, a 4.00x12, with a diameter of 20.5" will travel 64.37" in one revolution, or turn 984.3 revolutions in a mile. A 120x70x12, with a diameter of 18.6" will travel 58.40" in one revolution, or turn 1084.9 revoltions in a mile. That is a big difference.....so pick wisely |
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Post by rks on Dec 13, 2015 5:30:04 GMT -6
A quick search turned up this.....
12" Tires
4.00x12 : 4.0"W x 20.5"T
110/70/12 : 4.3"W x 18.1"T
110/90/12 : 4.3"W x 19.8"T
110/100/12 : 4.3"W x 20.7"T
120/70/12 : 4.7"W x 18.6"T
130/70/12 : 5.1"W x 19.2"T
140/60/12 : 5.5"W x 18.6"T
140/70/12 : 5.5"W x 19.7"T
Looks like your closest match is 110x100x12
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Post by rks on Nov 19, 2015 19:02:50 GMT -6
Thank you cyborg for saying "quit your beachin" in such a kind way.
Want to add that I too had a CB350, it was my 2nd bike, and bought new in 1968. Sweet bike.....Honda knows their onions when it comes to building motorcycles.
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