Clinician
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Post by hunter on Jun 16, 2014 23:33:37 GMT -6
chinacrapper How long can it stay problem free? What time is it?
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Clinician
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Post by hunter on Jun 14, 2014 11:50:05 GMT -6
straightbangin Don't throw that starter away. They have brushes and can get a lot of crud inside that ruins the armature where the brushes go. Clean everything up with contact cleaner, check the length of the brushes, they may be ok, just dirty. Use special cloth, can't remember the name, it's for sanding the armature. The hardest part is re-assembly, the bolts are magnetic and stick to everything. Mark the bolt locations on the case,use a wooden dowel to line up one side then be patient, you'll get it. That bo;t will line things up for the other side, remove the dowel and be patient. Oh, put the brushes into their holder with your fingers, put the armature against them, then slip a feeler gauge in there to force the brushes further into their slot which allows the armature to slip by while pulling out the feeler gauge. Be patient. compressed air is a must to blow out all the nasties. If that fixes it great. Take the new one back or sell the fixed one or make a bookend out of it. I have a rebuilt one you can use for the other bookend.
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Post by hunter on May 30, 2014 1:58:18 GMT -6
Hey Rich, how's it going? I read alley's thread about the cdi, makes sense to me. Have to check with in-law to see if he wants to spring for one like alley got. Oh yea, the meter. With so many brands of meters the read out may be a little hard to follow. I'm old school, like testing a ground wire, I want to see all 000's. Course you should remove the wire from the switch, lite, or whatever to meter to the ground source, battery or frame or? Anything less then that is a bad ground. You can find that. Test a wire and it won't give you 000, that's a faulty ground. Same with a power source, isolate the wire and test it end to end,red at batt and black at other end. not 000 then you have a partial open. How many ohms should it carry? Who knows, you only have a couple of feet to test. A scoots wiring only has two faults,both corrosion related. A bad ground or a bad connection. Ok,misplaced wire cutters when you're working on wires mid way in the harness.The switches, were they made in the USA? Then they're bad. Sorry. Thanks Rich.
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Clinician
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Post by hunter on May 21, 2014 15:57:13 GMT -6
This is for Bashan who I hope will pass it along, especially to alley oop who I hope sees this. I started with a no spark condition and with Bashan's help, diagrams and meter reading and such, it led to the stator. Of course that wasn't the end of it, you can't leave out the cdi,turns out it was bad also, sometimes, Huh? Then I had no fuel and questionable vacuum. That's when Alley Oop chimed in with his knowledge of carbs and valve gapping and such. Pics were flying back and forth, thanks to Bashan and guess what. You have to be patient. Seems I lost all fuel to the carb, it loses it's prime so to speak and it takes lots of turn over to get the vacuum and prime back. Course I didn't find that out till after I rebuilt the carb. So believe it when I tell you that this forum and the friendly people on it are a God send for rookies like me. Stay with it, they go above and beyond. Thanks guys.
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Post by hunter on Apr 13, 2014 13:55:10 GMT -6
Try a marine shop. One that fixes hulls. They use a glue that is better than super glue, I think it's even called Marine glue. It's not for repairing hulls, they use fiberglass and epoxy for that. This is for gluing on small broken pieces. If you have a screw tab broken off it's perfect. I might have the name wrong but the techs should know what you need. Don't tell them it's for a scoot, they'll laugh and tell you they can't help you. Well, they do in Fla.
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Clinician
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Post by hunter on Mar 28, 2014 17:57:31 GMT -6
Thanks for the info.
Stan
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Post by hunter on Mar 27, 2014 13:38:58 GMT -6
Thanks alley that just confirms what I thought. I really should check first but the parts sites say I have a BN type motor. the numbers have a 1p58 and letters but they are not qmj I don't believe. Sorry, I'll check that out but I know people say it's BN. what does that do for the valve gap? anything? just give me a shout I don't want to make a big deal out of it and waste your time. Let me know. Thanks.
PS what was that tech thinking?
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Clinician
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Post by hunter on Mar 26, 2014 21:18:07 GMT -6
I've been up to my ears trying to help alleyoop help me. Just about ready to take some pics. A little off subject, I have a question. What is the proper gap for the intake and exhaust valves? I've been fed some info about that, not from scooter doc, but the worry wart in me wants to pin down the right numbers. I'm not questioning what scooter doc people have told me, I just want to verify that I've remembered right, and that this last info I've gotten is all BS. It comes from a scooter shop tech, but he's been wrong before, I've proved it with my results. He doesn't make sense a lot of times. I didn't ask him for this info, he asked what setting I used and I told him what I had been told and he said that was wrong, I don't believe it. Did he mistake mm's for thousands? That's being nice. Anybody? Thanks to all. Stan
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Post by hunter on Mar 22, 2014 15:48:05 GMT -6
Sorry, posted twice. Ok then, I want to do a float bowl check before I wrap the carb up. What's the best way to measure the float? The needle is doing it's job. Need to check the float height don't I? I just now adjusted the valves, I used .004 and .005, intake,exhaust, ok? Compression tester part didn't come so have to wait for a compression test. Oh, the valves were .001 off on both. Sorry, waiting for manifold gaskets also, O ring and regular gasket, not both O rings, go figure? Guess it will be Monday or Tuesday so I don't want to hold you up waiting for me. I'll post and let you know about the pics. Need Bashan to help me post them, I'm on Photobucket and Bashan can work with me on that, so, Thanks and I'll keep you posted.
Stan
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Post by hunter on Mar 22, 2014 15:24:08 GMT -6
I'm willing to help and I know you all are willing but I'm stuck on the pic request. I have the carb all the lines the manifold all off the scoot and on the work bench. Yes Rich, I have the room. So, what should I take a pic of? Should I put it all back together the way it was and send that pic? I didn't think the empty space where the carb and lines used to be would help much, maybe I'm wrong, huh? I've been batting zero so far. Let me know, I'll take a pic of whatever will help, I'll just need a little time if I have to put everything back. The only thing I know seems wrong is the action of the vacuum valve under the tank. Sucking lightly on the vacuum hose lets good flow through the fuel line to the carb. Hooking the hose to the manifold and cranking the engine produces only a trickle of fuel out the fuel line to the carb. That's why low vacuum came to mind. That could lead to internal things that should be identified by a compression test. I'm more then willing to send along any info you guys need, I'm just not sure about what's going to be required since I have all the stuff apart. Kind of like, send us pics and I ask, "pictures of what" everythings gone. Thanks, get back to me and set my dumb a.. straight.
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Clinician
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Post by hunter on Mar 22, 2014 12:58:24 GMT -6
I'm willing to help and I know you all are willing but I'm stuck on the pic request. I have the carb all the lines the manifold all off the scoot and on the work bench. Yes Rich, I have the room. So, what should I take a pic of? Should I put it all back together the way it was and send that pic? I didn't think the empty space where the carb and lines used to be would help much, maybe I'm wrong, huh? I've been batting zero so far. Let me know, I'll take a pic of whatever will help, I'll just need a little time if I have to put everything back. The only thing I know seems wrong is the action of the vacuum valve under the tank. Sucking lightly on the vacuum hose lets good flow through the fuel line to the carb. Hooking the hose to the manifold and cranking the engine produces only a trickle of fuel out the fuel line to the carb. That's why low vacuum came to mind. That could lead to internal things that should be identified by a compression test. I'm more then willing to send along any info you guys need, I'm just not sure about what's going to be required since I have all the stuff apart. Kind of like, send us pics and I ask, "pictures of what" everythings gone. Thanks, get back to me and set my dumb a.. straight.
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Clinician
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Post by hunter on Mar 20, 2014 18:23:52 GMT -6
First, to bashan, my stuff is kind of like that and yes the fuel valve is on the tank, no air cut off. To alleyoop, I have the carb off and all lines off. Before I did that I checked for vacuum at the manifold, but I used a car gauge. It showed action but not enough to move any fuel. sucking on the fuel valve line got good flow in fuel line to carb but when lines are connected flow is bad. The carb it self is supper clean, looks like it came out of the box, not off the engine. I have an adapter fitting for my compression gauge ordered so I haven't done a test yet. The old fashion way won't work, my finger is too small to plug the hole. I got some but?? I must have bad vacuum somehow and the valves used to be ok not long ago. So? I'd like to start over on the TDC since I did fool with the flywheel and key way, just to replace stator. I don't know why the bowl is soo clean no residue and the float passes a short test. The compression test will tell lots more, have I missed anything? Well, of course I have, sorry. Thanks for chipping in.
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Post by hunter on Mar 19, 2014 16:54:21 GMT -6
It was suggested that I put my questions on a thread for all to, uh, enjoy. Went from a spark problem to a no fuel or proper vacuum problem in short order. I know next to nothing about scooter carbs or the fuel path in the carb so this should be interesting. I used a car vacuum gauge at the manifold and got a reading but don't know if it's accurate, car gauge you know. I located what is called a vacuum pump and sucked on the vacuum side and got a good flow from the line to the carb, that's good, right? But hook it up and the engine vacuum only produces a trickle, at best. On top I have what is called a CV thing that has a vacuum line an operates a diaphragm that operates a slider that has a needle to plug up a jet type thing. The slider works by pushing it up with my finger but not by vacuum, guess that means a bad diaphragm? The diaphragm looks a little odd but since it is not flat?? the slider is the center of it.?? Anyway, what part of this has a thing to do with no fuel in the carb? The bowl is dry as toast but the float stuff all works, not plugged or anything. I vote for the vacuum problem, but I don't know why. Hope I didn't get to technical on you all,HEE HEE, but any ideas? Help is on the way, right? Thanks to all.
PS. The float bowl looks like it NEVER had fuel in it. NO residue, no nothing, looks like it came out of a box that was mailed to me. The drain nipple screw was tight and nothing leaked when I filled the bowl.
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Post by hunter on Jan 26, 2014 21:17:29 GMT -6
That should be fine. It think you have my phone#. Send me your's please at srkreuter@aol.com. I'd like to do those static tests you mentioned before I spin it, if I can. I'm available any time for phone but Tuesday will work for actual motor work. Thanks again, still, whatever.lol
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Post by hunter on Jan 26, 2014 12:04:56 GMT -6
You sent a thread about voltage readings on the cdi and the coil, unusual to do so you said. Anyway I don't know where I put it, could you please send it to me again. I'll certainly need it shortly. Thanks.
Stan
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