Clinician
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Post by hunter on Jan 21, 2014 17:36:44 GMT -6
Bashan I got that diagram from a thread tagged " generic 150 wiring diagram: colored & hi-rise" not anything you've sent to me lately but you may have started the thread. Anyway, I think I have enough to get started and that wiring snafu I found with the yellow and green probably messed something up. That's why I think knowing expected meter readings may point out a fried part. My BAD, for sure if that's it. Putting wires back one at a time, have your library to test some parts with a meter. Should be ok if I don't make any more goofs, Yes That's possible.
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Clinician
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Post by hunter on Jan 16, 2014 17:58:39 GMT -6
Bashan, I'm going to add some input as you go along. It'll help me keep up. The #9 is indeed bk/w and #10 does look red in the pic but it is r/bk. Hope I don't go color blind before you get thru.LOL
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Post by hunter on Jan 9, 2014 20:20:17 GMT -6
Also warns people that you will be moving soon.LOL
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Post by hunter on Jan 9, 2014 20:17:10 GMT -6
It also sends a warning that you are going to be moving soon.LOL
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Post by hunter on Jan 1, 2014 21:52:15 GMT -6
I think I've got this right. The side stand switch keeps the scoot from starting if it's down. I guess it breaks continuity. What feature does it affect? Starter, coil? Anybody, please?
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Post by hunter on Dec 13, 2012 15:15:30 GMT -6
This is way off the subject, kind of, it is a Chinese motor. It powers a portable generator. The motor is an odd shape and I can't identify the cylinder/head connection. Strange but the whole top end looks like one piece. It's OHV with push rods but no head bolts. Wouldn't think I'd have to tear the whole bottom end off. All I want to do is remove the head to clean the piston and valves, you can see goo on the top of the piston thru the plug hole. Any body ever worked on this engine? Internet comments only complain about the low wattage. Doesn't put out the power it advertises. It's said the engine runs fine. Sears has parts and they list a head and a cylinder. The diagram is fuzzy so you can't tell how it fits but it does show bolts which I don't have, not where you'd expect them to be anyway. Help please. APG 3102 TE plus B402 TG but this # doesn't come up, so?. Anybody? Thanks
Stan
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Clinician
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Post by hunter on Sept 3, 2012 16:05:33 GMT -6
Hey Tawas. I think I got this right. Scooter body parts are carbon fiber type. The color is part of the part, not painted on. However, custom hot-rod painters can fix you right up, for a PRICE. You might have some luck finding a scoot with blowed drive train. Maybe the owner has been talked out of fixing it. If it wasn't wreaked, just blowed, the parts you need should be available. Just a thought.
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Clinician
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Post by hunter on Sept 3, 2012 15:54:01 GMT -6
Here's my 2 cents worth. Don't know how hard it hit the dirt or other roadway but Chinese batteries are, well, junk. Most scooter doc experts tell you, change the oil a lot, replace the plug with ngk and look for bad electric connections. My suggestion is try another battery. The metal inside could have suffered damage, can't see that, and the ground stuff may be what broke, hence bad ground in system. Just a thought. Also, a meter on ohms across the battery terminals should peg the needle. If you have any kind of damage inside and you look at needle or read out real close you won't have 100% numbers. Works for external ground wires too. Start at neg.- battery wire with one lead and check a ground wire at farthest point away from battery. Work your way back and each reading should be 100%, if not, start looking for breaks. Check the stuff close to ground zero. Sorry, disconnect pos+ wire at battery also. Good luck.
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Post by hunter on Jul 17, 2012 0:33:27 GMT -6
Here's a redneck fix. It's the fill hole,no pressure, oil is supposed to be below threads in bottom of hole. Go to hardware store and get rubber plug, like a cork only made of rubber and stick it in there. Glue it if you want. First couple of miles will let you know how it's working out. Cheap right? Remember, drill and tap= shaveings that may fall inside=bad. Plenty of grease on tools helps a lot. The money you save can go toward the drill/tap if you ever want to do it right. Or get a tap for your thread size, carefully run it in there. Cleans it up a bit, maybe all you need.q
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Oil Leak
by: hunter - Jul 7, 2012 1:31:01 GMT -6
Post by hunter on Jul 7, 2012 1:31:01 GMT -6
I'm after the same hidden leak on a 150. Mine has a black rubber cover that hides the tensioner. I'm bout ready to start engine after some other gasket sealing will I see the leak with cover on?
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Post by hunter on Jun 28, 2012 9:34:13 GMT -6
hope he remembered about left hand thread on some models. too late now. I just now read this.
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Oil Leak
by: hunter - Jun 28, 2012 1:10:24 GMT -6
Post by hunter on Jun 28, 2012 1:10:24 GMT -6
Boy o boy,small world. Have put out questions of my own for leak on 150 omj. Belongs to friend who claims big leak,lot's of oil on the floor. I put paper out after we parked it. Not much? Seemed to come from front of engine. Under seat there's lots of over spray around valve cover but that's not enough for the puddles friend is claiming.I'll be keeping my eyes peeled to Kountryguy's site. I'll try what he does.
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Post by hunter on Jun 25, 2012 14:20:04 GMT -6
I agree with rob63. You said you were a novice so put this in your oops file,save it for parts and look for a better scoot. At least you'll know a little more about what to look for before buying. Good luck
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Post by hunter on Jun 3, 2012 18:59:49 GMT -6
sorry to be so lengthy but I know zilch about chinese electrics. Trying to apply motorcycle knowledge and it don't work. Trying to meter my ac and dc outputs but my wiring is different. All diagrams show a white feed wire from stator, mine has a green ground and 3 yellow wires in a quick connect that goes to another quick connect at the reg/rectifier. There are 2 stator wires not in connector that go to the cdI,which I just found after 2 days. They meter ok per internet info. The r/r itself has 3 yellows,1 green,1 white. The feed is the stator wires plus a black,fed by the r/r white, and a red wire that meters batt. voltage when engine off. The black and red meter @ 14 vdc with engine running and r/r connected. The scoot belongs to my brother-in-law. He brought it to me because the running lites didn't work,most of the time. Since purchase from dealer. No longer in business. Battery never dead. All dc lites+starter ok. Haven'd done any cdI tests, just found it. Since the lites were sometimes affected by bumps I found a mounting bolt for r/r missing. The unit has dropped down, Movement tells me the unit ground may be bad now. ?? I'll repair this and retest outputs. Could I be that lucky? Oh yea, the r/r yellow wires had 2.5 to 3 vdc at r/r. Sorry to run on. Thanks for your time. Stan.
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Post by hunter on Jun 2, 2012 23:34:45 GMT -6
have yet to find diagram or pic that address my prodigy scooter. all specs differant than what i have. Wire routes,colors,etc. Can't find a cdi. Running lites don't work properly. Batt charges ok. Stator and r/r have more and different color wires. Meter readings not as directed but may be doing it wrong. Help!!
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