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A cdi must be connected to a magneto to see what it does. YOU HAVE TO HAVE INPUT TO TEST FOR OUTPUT !!!

Thanks Rich! you got me laughing again. I will try to watch my wording a bit closer LMAO.. Have a great night, Heck Im off for 3 days so Im gonna have some beers and watch tv.. Bye

Hi all hope everyone is well. I could swear I saw a post about this but couldn't find it. OK so I just tore into it. The switch lever was getting very loose like wobbley and I could move it up and down. SOOOOOO. Its easy just take your time. 2 phillups screws on bottom of control assy, take 1/2 way out hold top half and push screws up to split the halves , take screws out compleatley WATCH IT one is longer than the other. take top half off it has the high beem switch in it and lay it forward. you now see the pivot screw for the switch lever, its loose! . OK get a small shank phillups driver, a small magnet, some blue locktite, and some white lube. carefullyremove the screw and THE WASHER, 1 drop locktite on screw, use magnet to line op screw to hole, slightly pressing in on lever helps line the hole up, tighten snug BUT DONT KILL IT! spray with white lube and test operation right turn , push in to cancel and so on . do it a few times to work the lube in. OK put top on and line it up 2 screws back in and your done. wont fall apart on ya in traffic LOL. hope I helped . PoppaJon.

Hi All ok so I ran the fuel out before winter layup and felt good that the carb was dry.

Filled the gas in spring and scoot started normal and idled great to full warm up. So now I goose it and it stalls out
try to restart and its putting and spittin and would kind of run if I kept blipping the throttle would not idle .
Im like , So I check the fuel drain on the bottom left side a hose comes down from the carb bowl and theres a small screw to open the valve.The drain valve is visible if you look under the scoot on the left side in the engine area its small. WELL out comes this lightweight oily crap with no gas odor ??
Must have been residual fuel that settled into the carb bowl, keep in mind I DID NOT DRAIN THIS BEFORE LAYUP !
When I goosed the throttle it must have sucked this crap through all the fuel passages ! What I did was blow
gumout carb cleaner back up the drain valve to fill the carb bowl, then let that drain out. ok started but still no idle. IM like I AM NOT TEARING THIS WHOL CARB APART ! OK so pulled the enricher out and blew carb clean thru all the passages, put together and WALA runs fine and still does. I will allways open that drain valve now before layup. I guess that stuff was from the ethanol in the gas ? .Hope this helps someone BYE. POPPAJON

OK its poppa jon again , but this may be very helpful to many.
I got my fuel tank fixed and back in the scoot, sorry if my instructions confused some but if ya follow them you can get the fuel tank out of the frame without taking the whole dam scoot apart,, only half of it ! LMAO.

Anyway. new hi test fuel seafoam in in tank . starts right up and seems normal thru warm up rad fan ok temp ok.

So Im running the rpm's up and down slowly , then I cracked it to 5k and let go quick like well it stalls out.

now I cant restart, let cool would only start with part throttle then had to keep goosing it to keep rpm up,

Ta daaaaaaaaaaa carbs gummed up. got pissed and walked away for the night. Either that or the 5 lb sledge was coming out LOL.

I know I rant on but trying to lay out the scenario of how it happened, OK SO WHAT DID YOU DO !!! OK. HERE GOES.

OPENED THE CARB DRAIN UNDER THE LEFT SIDE OF SCOOT OIL'Y crap VARNISH DRAINED OUT THEN SOME FUEL. OK I got it.

took the drain screw out put the gumout straw in the hole and blasted the crap out of it till the carb bowl was full.
Took the enricher out as that is direct to the idle ports, USE A MAGMET TO CATCH THE ENRICHER SCREWS !!!!,
blast gumout into and thru enricher holes. put the dam thing back together . STARTS RIGHT UP RUNS NORMAL NOE. hope this can help someone. I must vacate this room I cant stand the fart I just cut PHEW LOL bye.

Hello to youall, been a while. I finally got that leak ! it was the fuel sender all the while. Had to pull the tank out of the frame which I will go into later. Anyway Joey Chingchang the factory fuel sender installer must have been drunk that day lol. I tried to fix this in the scoot but you cannot get a good eyeball on it. what I found on the workbench was 1- the lockdown ring was bent like really warped, so straightened that up. 2- the plastic sender top was warped, 3- the original flat rubber gasket was folded and had tears in the surface, 4- the metal tab that orientates the sender was up to high which held the front of the sender up and caused it to warp. 5- the foam float on the sender was gas logged .

Hope Im not to boaring yet just stuff to look at if anyone has same problem. ok brb time to grab a beer.

OK ahhhh burp, sorry. The tank is a real pain to get out of the frame, heres what I did of corse all lower plastic has to come off, unbolt the 4 tank mounts,careful to keep track of the parts. Of corse you already drained the tank ! ahem do that. Now unbolt the 2 frame rails on either side, 1 on each side.unplug sender and hoses, you MUST remove the radiator cooling fan, IMPORTANT! PUT A PEACE OF CARDBOARD ON THE RADIATOR so ya don't put a hole in it!!.
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roll the tank toward you ,YOU ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE SCOOT ! and carefully work it out of the frame. OH I forgot the black plastic top caver can be removed without removing all the rear top plastics, it will flex enough to just clear the handlebars, I SUGGEST WARM WEATHER FOR THIS SHORTCUT. and that's that, assemble in reverse order.

OH I used an o-ring for the new gasket for the sender, lube it and all parts for reassembly. good luck POPPAJON.