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Post by Alleyoop on May 14, 2016 17:26:14 GMT -6
Sorry to say but that Spring is a CLUTCH PAD SPRING and if nobody put a new one on that is why your CLUTCH IS GRABBING at very low RPMS. The clutch pads work by centrifugal force and if ONE PAD HAS the spring missing it will be thrown out and grab the bell at very low rpms WHICH IS what your current problem is.
I would suggest you to take the clutch off and check the springs in the clutch and make sure all the springs are on and one not missing. I mean if you found that spring in the CVT that tells me the spring came off and a PAD is without a spring.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 14, 2016 16:33:30 GMT -6
It roughly idles at about 1,000 rpm. I had to go that low to get the rear wheel to stop spinning. However, the idle isn't stable. It is usually 1,000 rpm but wanders up to 2,000 rpm. Where can I find your 4t carb tuning guide? Here is the tuning procedure thread: scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/1499/4ts-carb-tuningThe Idle is to low it should idle at around 1800 Also if the idle goes up and down MEANS it is LEAN and not RICH like I first thought from the way you described it dying coming to stops. But I can see why it dies your idle is way to low. If the wheel spins at little over 1000 rpms that means something is not right in the CVT. It could be your Variator weights and or your clutch grabbing to soon which would mean something is broke probably a spring. Alleyoop |
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Post by Alleyoop on May 14, 2016 15:37:36 GMT -6
Do you know what the RPMS it idles at WHEN all nice and hot?
When coming to a stop from higher rpms sounds like it may be running to rich and the idle keeps dropping from the set IDLE. To me that says the Fuel ratio mixture is to rich and needs to be leaned out. But if you follow my 4t carb tuning guide you will get it running much better.
And yes the Fuel Mixture Screw is a PAIN IN REAR TO GET AT, you need something with a 90 degree bend and about 1/2 in length only to get it in there and adjust the mixture.
As far as the brakes yea I hope it is as easy as mine was.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 14, 2016 11:20:56 GMT -6
Have you adjusted the carbs Fuel Ratio Mixture? And yes the motor will likely die if the idle is to high and the wheel is spinning. braking at low rpms puts a load on the motor and it will die.
On the CENTER STAND the motor needs to idle around 1800 rpms and the rear wheel not spinning AFTER it is warmed up. If it is spinning after it is warmed up you will always have the dieing problem coming to stops.
Just adjusting the IDLE will not fix the problem you need to adjust the carbs FUEL RATIO MIXTURE on the center stand AFTER it is nice and warm. Turning the mixture screw ALL you are looking for is to adjust it where it gets the HIGHEST IDLE. Then after that adjustment is reached you MAY NEED to lower the IDLE so the rear wheel DOES NOT SPIN using the IDLE SPEED SCREW on the THROTTLE CONTROL WHEEL.
I would say it might be your valves causing it to die coming to stops but if you can re-start after it dies then it is not your valves. Running poorly is a fuel and air related problem and may also be a cvt variator problem may be both or just one.
If you had front brakes before and the scoot has been sitting for months then I would say the pistons are just stuck.
Actually I just fixed my Front Disc brakes that way. Sitting in the garage over the winter I never used the front brake to start it every week or so and the front pistons where stuck. I had no pressure at all the handle closed all the way and nothing. I took off the caliper and sure enough I could see the pistons extended out. Got a scraper and stuck in between the pads and pushed the pistons back squeezed the brakes they closed pushed them back several time to free them up and now I have actually more pressure than I had before.
Take the caliper off the disc and if you see the pistons extended out they are stuck. get a scraper or something thin and stick it between the pads and push the pistons back then apply the brakes and they should pop out and when released they should pop back in if they get stuck again do it several times pushing them back and applying the brake SEE IF THAT FIXS the no brake problem.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 20:22:51 GMT -6
WOW!! That is cheap and it is a MATCH great find  |
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 19:11:36 GMT -6
When getting the new stator make sure the wiring is the same as yours. Take a picture of the wiring on yours.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 19:04:33 GMT -6
Yea I think the shut off is due to the parts getting hot and only happens under operation so your testing as before will check out ok.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 18:45:59 GMT -6
You may not need to get a new carb try adjusting it first. The Enricher(choke) by default when cold should be retracted and feeds extra fuel for starting a cold motor. As soon as the motor starts it feeds voltage to the enricher until the motor is shut off SO As the motor warms up from a cold start within 3-4 minutes the Enricher plunger extends and shuts off the extra fuel. After the enricher shuts off the extra fuel it is only the PILOT JET that is feeding fuel to the motor. So if the idle is erratic you either have an AIR LEAK and or the carbs Fuel Ratio Mixture needs to be adjusted because if the rpms are going up and down it is LEAN. So adjusting the mixture screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE may fix you erratic idle. Now the idle should not be so high that the rear wheel is spinning if it is spinning the idle is to high. USE the IDLE SPEED screw on the carb the screw on the right side of the carb with the SPRING UNDER neath turn that counter clockwise to lower clockwise to raise the idle. scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/1499/4ts-carb-tuningThe Speedo it may be that the Cable has come loose behind the speedo and or by the SPEEDO HUB by the wheel. CARBS ARE A DIME A DOZEN: You need a 18mm for the 50cc Here is one and it is a good price. www.amazon.com/50cc-18mm-Carburetor-49cc-Scooter/dp/B004J5CJVA |
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 18:34:25 GMT -6
WOW!! I think maybe the culprit has been found And we was right it has a 11 poole stator. Man that picku is nothing but a rust bucket and it looks like it is pittend also the poles metal plates are all rusted as well. That would definitely create a lot of resistance and heat. Alleyoop |
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 17:42:14 GMT -6
Great take a picture of your stator also if any poles look burnt it is trashed.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 16:16:06 GMT -6
www.jonway.com/Agility-F.htmlYours is the 4 stroke version parts are very common so you will not have a problem finding parts for it. The motor type itched into the side of the crankcase by the sidestand will be either a 1P39QMB or 139QMB. So for parts you google by using the motor type. But like I said parts everyone will have them for that scooter. First thing is to test for SPARK, hold the plug on the VALVE COVER and crank it over and see if it SPARKS. Make sure there is a GROUND WIRE from the motor to the frame. The best place to put a MOTOR GROUND wire is on one of the VALVE COVER BOLTS then to the frame. With out a ground wire on the motor to the frame or bad ground the plug will not spark. When you squeeze the brakes (either one left or right) do the brake lights come on ?
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 11:34:38 GMT -6
Good news, getting those rpms down was very important to have a longer lasting motor.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 11:32:44 GMT -6
Good for you, you will love it they run really well, the motors are not your clone motors and last a very long time.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 13, 2016 11:30:53 GMT -6
HAHAHAHA, they also like to do that in the muffler.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 12, 2016 20:53:33 GMT -6
Doing wheelies can be dangerous  |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
