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Post by dannicus on Oct 19, 2010 8:07:16 GMT -6
Ok... I am PISSED (at myself)  I had been so careful about getting brake fluid on the plastics... but I did something stupid when I was removing the front brake pads. I had left the cover off the master cylinder reservoir, so when I compressed the pistons, brake fluid went flying all over the black plastics. I tried to wash it off immediately, but it was too late. The fluid appeared to actually BLEACH the plastic. I have these horrible white streaks all through the handlebar plastic!  I don't have any pics at the moment, but I'll take some later. I guess I have a couple options.... I can try painting it with some vinyl/plastic paint, or I could go with naked handlebars. The only problem I see with naked bars is that I really like my gauge cluster. I'd have to work out a way to keep them, or learn to live without them. Try Mirror Glaze Plastic Cleaner (not polish). It works wonders, it's not supposed to be abrasive, but it does noticeably remove material. That's what you want, tho, since that brake fluid damaged the finish. I'm very picky about what products I apply to my plastics, especially black finished ones. Mirror Glaze is good stuff.  When you bleed the brakes, a good practice is to work quickly and deliberately. -Top up the reservoir and put the lid on it to prevent splashes. Hold the wrench on the nipple with one hand, -apply good firm pressure to the lever with the nipple closed and then quickly crack and then lightly close the nipple. -Release the lever and repeat. Do this quickly while keeping an eye on the fluid level in the master cyl window. Once all the bubbles stop coming out, thump the lines all over to make sure no bubbles are hanging on. After that, I'll push about half of the volume of the res through the system for good measure. Seems like alot to do, but it all takes less than 5-7 minutes when you get it down.  The firm pressure on the lever squeezes any bubbles down to a smaller size so they rise slower in vertical lines and are more easily swept through the system. Some will say you should get a bleeder, but with this technique you can completely replace and thoroughly bleed the front and back systems in under 15 minutes with practice. |
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Final Gears
by: dannicus - Oct 15, 2010 11:46:44 GMT -6
Post by dannicus on Oct 15, 2010 11:46:44 GMT -6
Gentlemen. I know there will be some experimentation, trial & error. Experimenting with gears will be the last thing I do. For anyone who isn't aware and been reading my Matrix: Rebuilding thread, the scooter in question has a 161QML motor, which is at least 169cc. However, a 161QMK is 169cc. The only reference to a 161QML I can find on google is a 189cc trike... one of these days I'll determine the stroke and find out for sure. Unless my Tach is off, I'm not getting over 6500 rpm. Period. Its like I'm hitting a limiter, but I don't think it is. It may creep up to about 6750, but I haven't been able to make it hit 7000. That's telling me I need to change weights. Ally, while its not a "performance" variator (to my knowledge), the factory variator in my new motor is already has a 115mm OD, which is the same as the Dr. Pulley and Prodigy variators. I haven't done the Sharpie test to see how high its climbing, but with only an 835 belt, I don't think its reaching the top. I don't know what my stock weights are, but I do have some others to try. I may mess around with those this weekend. Of course, I bet my top speed would improve if I lost about 40 lbs, too. (<---Which is something I'm going to try and do in the coming months.) Yeah, I'm sure you'd notice if you hit the rev limiter. These things don't have the complexity of the high end bikes with "soft" limiters. Heh, time to hit the gym! |
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Final Gears
by: dannicus - Oct 14, 2010 23:10:01 GMT -6
Post by dannicus on Oct 14, 2010 23:10:01 GMT -6
He is hitting the wall most likley because of his weights, that he can control he can run 8000 rpms at 55-57 if he wants to but anything over 7500 rpms is a waste closer to 7000 rpms would be better and he can get there with just changing his weights. But with changing the gearing he can do 6500 rpms and be running at a much higher speed. Alleyoop If he tunes his variato to run 55-57 @ 8000rpms he IS changing his gearing. Just via a different road. Either way, gearing won't change the power output of the engine. If he won't pull higher than 55-57 with 6500rpm with stock gearing, there's no way he'll pull any higher speed @ 6500rpm; nomatter how you gear it. |
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Final Gears
by: dannicus - Oct 14, 2010 22:08:41 GMT -6
Post by dannicus on Oct 14, 2010 22:08:41 GMT -6
Yes if you put on a belt that is TO long you will loose top end. Reason being is even though the belt may climb to the edge of the Variator it will not be pulled all the way down in the Clutch Pulley therefore losing top end. You will always run out of gearing and Variator size. That is why you can buy performance Variators that are bigger in diameter to get the belt to climb higher for more top end using the same belt size. Same thing with the gears, they work just like your CVT and Clutch pulley same principle. Lower ratio will have a great take off but lower top end than he already has. He just wants about another 5 miles per hour. So when he counts the teeth on the front gear and rear gear he can just go 2 higher on the front and 2 lower in the rear and he will be where he wants to be. His rpms can be controlled with weights depending on how his engine reacts to the taller gears which were only changed by two teeth each. Alleyoop In my hot rod days used to run 389 gears and end of quarter mile was doing 119mph. Put in 456 gears for better take off and better quarter mile ETs but it would run out of gear at 107mph would not go any faster than that. Not exactly sure if you're responding to my post. IMO, He's not running out of gearing when he's pushing 55-57 @ 6500rpm. He's hitting a wall where his power @ 6500rpm can't push him further. He needs lower gearing to make use of the power up higher in rpms. These things put out peak horsepower @ around 7500 on average. It's gonna be only around 1 hp difference, if that. So top speed isn't gonna be a huge improvement without some other measures to actually make more power. |
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Final Gears
by: dannicus - Oct 14, 2010 21:29:15 GMT -6
Post by dannicus on Oct 14, 2010 21:29:15 GMT -6
runningslow, What a coincidence, I just ordered a set myself I got the 16/37 set, my Ice Bear Trike has 13/40 gears and I know one other Trike owner that just put in 15/38 and gained around 8mph over the 13/40 gears. I want to be able to cruise at 55 with low RPMS and still have something left over. Alleyoop Alleyoop, please, let me know how it goes and what it takes to change them out! Mine won't be going into a trike, but the outcome should be similar. My goal is to hit a true 60-65, but cruise comfortably at 55. Right now, I'm able to max out around 55-57 @ about 6500rpms. I think with a longer belt and a roller change I should be able to squeeze out a few more mph. So, if a gear change could net me about 5mph, I'd be a happy camper! Runningslow, I was just going over your post and I think a longer belt would hurt you. The taller top gear u'd end up would put you even farther from peak power. You'd prolly get more top speed with a lower overall ratio so your bike is in the meat of it's output at top speed. Correct me if I'm wrong. |
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Post by dannicus on Oct 13, 2010 10:51:05 GMT -6
They're working on taking themselves out of the gene pool. Dannicus - were you Navy or Marines? I saw that they now require a special safety school if you're going to ride a crotch rocket even off base - too many accidents. Navy. All branches are requiring members to take a safety course to get stickers. I sort of doubt it helps save lives, tho. U can't fix stupid. |
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Post by dannicus on Oct 12, 2010 23:25:18 GMT -6
Possible that the spark on some scoots is weak enough where you have to compensate by using the .5 PPR setting. I wonder if this would change with a high output coil. Could be. Can't imagine why it would consistantly miss out on every other spark, tho. Wonder if things will change if I run the sensor wire longitudinally. Anybody have a CDI schematic? there might be some answers in there. |
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Post by dannicus on Oct 12, 2010 22:35:46 GMT -6
1 PPR setting should be accurate. The ignition gives one spark pulse per revolution. There is only one power stroke every other revolution so one spark pulse is wasted. You want to measure the revolutions of the engine not the amount of power strokes (like a 2 stroke) so the 1 PPR setting is accurate. Not in this case. |
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Post by dannicus on Oct 12, 2010 16:36:43 GMT -6
Booze and 2 wheels don't mix, Period........... Fixed! ;D |
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Post by dannicus on Oct 12, 2010 14:41:52 GMT -6
The TTO gives the option of 0.5, 1, 2 pulses per revolution. I'm only assuming that it's reading half of actual based on my rpms @ 60mph coming up as around 3800. There's no way.
Anyways, it works fine set to 0.5PPR. Strange, tho. I did get a recommendation from Trail Tech via email to try running the sensor wire longitudinally along the spark plug cable rather than wrapping it around as per the instructions.
<UPDATE>
Got another email back from Trail Tech. They tell me that having to set the Tach for 0.5PPR is typical for alot of scooters despite the single spark per rotation ignintion.
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Post by dannicus on Oct 12, 2010 11:41:12 GMT -6
I just installed a new TrailTech TTO Tach/Hourmeter on my Znen Milan. Had one on my BMW that worked great. Only problem is, I'm confused about the pulses per rotation (PPR). The tach picks up an inductive pulse off of the spark plug wire. I figured that the the ignition setup on these 150s is a "wasted spark," or one spark per rotation rather than every other; on the compression stroke. When set to 1 pulse per rotation, the tach obviously reads half of actual RPMs, so I ended up setting the thing to 0.5 PPR.  Anyone else come up with the same findings? |
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Post by dannicus on Oct 11, 2010 7:26:29 GMT -6
Lol, 147? Try 175 with more on tap!
I used to ride like that back when I was stationed in San Diego. I was also younger and dummer! My Znen is a form of self restraint! ;D
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Post by dannicus on Oct 9, 2010 9:16:52 GMT -6
I think it's a case of what they're copying. See this;  This isn't like any other Japanese bike today. Thought you'd notice that, it's a close cousin to a honda that's been making for, I dunno, 40 sum years.  I thought it strange that the Chinese chose to copy the CT "trailie" frame and fit it with street tires rather than use honda's CD road bike frame with the gas tank up in front of the seat. |
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Post by dannicus on Oct 7, 2010 11:36:21 GMT -6
I was gonna ask if you had changed your main spring to a heavier one before all of this. That can tend to put more heat into a belt. Nevermind, tho. ;D
Oh, did you make sure the cooling air intake for the CVT was clean and clear? That can cause overheating for sure.
Btw, let us know how it performs with that new main spring.
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Post by dannicus on Oct 7, 2010 11:30:12 GMT -6
@ Bashan: LOL, what were they thinking with that panel! (BTW, Beautiful bike!) I have to note that whatever fusses we have with getting to maintenance items on our scoots, are nothing compared to what you have to go thru with a modern sportbike. Valve adjustment? Try removing the seat, 2 to 3 body panels, the gas tank, spark plug wires, and the airbox with all of it's sensor connections and hoses. All that requires two different size allen drivers, a #2 phillips, a 10mm socket, a 12mm socket, a pair of hemostats to stop the fuel line, and the removal of counless pop-fasteners. Then once you measure your clearances on all 24 valves, you usually have to pull the camshafts to put in shims to correct the lash because they actuate the valves directly.  Just about any scoot is a breath of fresh air compared to that! |
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I don't have any pics at the moment, but I'll take some later.
