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Post by jerryscript on Jan 20, 2015 14:32:14 GMT -6
I live in Vegas, and I'm having a hard time remembering the last day I did not ride. I'm thinking it's been around 10 years since I had a day when I didn't get on two wheels for at least a short ride to the store. I can't imagine living where it's too cold to ride, I'm sure I would be buying all the heated gear, with that and a good windshield, the only thing that would keep me off the road would be deep snow or ice. My throttle wrist is twitching my hand back, my body's way of subtly telling me it's time for a ride!
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 19, 2015 22:02:31 GMT -6
Strange that the left side has lower voltage, might want to check the resistance on the wires. I pulled the front off mine to tighten the stem bearings, had a slight knock when hitting the front brake hard, and noticed there are adjusting screws for the headlights accessible inside the upper corners of the glove box. I dialed mine in to be sure I'm getting the best use of high and low without blinding on-coming traffic. Many people have modified their headlight mounts to accept other bulbs, I just read a thread here in the tips section showing how to modify HID bi-xenon bulbs to fit a standard H4 socket by cutting and bending small slots in the HID bulb's collar. You may be able to do something similar with other bulb types as well. scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/6739/cfmoto-charm-hid-conversion
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 19, 2015 16:13:41 GMT -6
Right on! Now enjoy the ride!
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 18, 2015 18:17:23 GMT -6
Right on, glad to hear you got it figured out. Now you can enjoy the ride!
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 18, 2015 18:11:07 GMT -6
Jerry two or 4 bolts on the valve cover ? John 4, but I forgot to measure the stud spacing when I did the PDI. According to Scrappy's Tech Talk section, this engine has the standard jug, not sure about valve height, will measure everything next time I open it up.
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 18, 2015 12:34:49 GMT -6
There are vacuum line diagrams in the tech section. You should have one vacuum line going from the fuel petcock usually to the intake manifold. This is what allows the fuel to flow through the petcock. One way to test it all out is to put a bowl under the carb drain tube and open it up. Then take the vacuum line comming off the center of the fuel petcock and suck on it. A couple of pulls on it and you should have fuel going into the bowl, if not your fuel petcock is bad, or the fuel line is clogged somewhere.
There are a couple of canisters you may have, one for a PAIR system, and one for an EVAP system. The PAIR system would have a tube going up and down on the outside of the valve cover, and a large hose connecting to the canister, and a smaller hose connecting to either the air box or carb intake tube. The EVAP system has a charcoal canister connected to the gas tank.
One other thing to make sure of, when you put your finger over the spark plug hole and crank it, does it blow your finger out of the hole? If not, you may have a compression issue.
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 18, 2015 12:17:34 GMT -6
If I remember there was a post looking to find out what scooter to buy a while ago . I suggested to it 16' wheels , was that you ? John Yep, thanks for the advice!
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 18, 2015 1:02:03 GMT -6
Thanks Alleyoop and everyone, looking forward to sharing the laughs here! Hey Jerry, you get a chance to put the scoot through it's paces? Are you in the "ride it like ya stole it" or "Break in slow" camp? I'm in the later..... I never hit WOT until about 250 miles (probably should've 500)..... I'm curious as to your top speed... And what's your weight/height? I'm in the up-and-down-rpms break in camp, doesn't let the rings set at any one RPM state. I haven't taken her out for a good long high speed ride yet, didn't get the plates today till close to sundown. Tomorrow will be the real test! I did take it on a quick 4 mile run on the freeway near my house. Two miles on a good uphill incline, then two miles back. Lot's of traffic (Vegas has rush hour 7 days a week), so I couldn't open her all the way up. Ran smooth uphill right around 60, downhill I got to 70, both times I was not at full throttle due to traffic. Cruising on city streets at 45-50 it's hitting 4-5k RPM, and on the freeway it never got above 6.5k, so I can probably tune the CVT to get up to 75mph without redlining. However, I'm not worried about top end, I think I'll go with sliders of the same weight as stock, or one step down. BTW- Can't get this stupid smile off my face!
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 17, 2015 20:18:43 GMT -6
BTW- The washers for raising a non-adjustable needle you can get at any hardware store. Take your needle and diaphragm with you so you find one that has an inner diameter that fits all the way up the needle, and an outer diameter that will fit in the diaphragm. My 50cc can take a large washer in the diaphragm, my 150cc has a collar around the needle and can only take very small washers.
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 17, 2015 14:02:35 GMT -6
jerryscript Haven't touched the needle yet.was going to try restricting the air flow internally at the air cleaner first.the values were set about 2 months ago,don't think that's the problem the scooter ran well before I disconnected the pars.and that's the rub when I first disconnected it, it ran great.but it was a warm day and I let the scooter warm up till the chock went off.the next time I started it was the next morning it was a little cold (cold for Cal.anyway 50 degrees)the scooter started just fine warmed it up than try ed to give it throttle no go, just fell on it's face and died.that's when I started to play with it and came up with the towel around the air cleaner fix and it worked.I'm puzzled .if the re stricter doesn't work I'll try your needle idea.if by chance my carb. isn't adjustable where can I get the washers?thanks for all your help. scoot, jct842, cyborg, jerryscript, Bashan That 50 degree temperature mark is right at the point air temp can affect a/f for someone who has tuned for 80-90 degree weather. At 50 degrees, the air is more dense, and is just beginning to push the a/f ratio too far to the extra oxygen side. So it's normal for you to have experienced those symptoms under those conditions. Three of us believe you are lean, we could all be wrong, but start working on that by either raising the needle, or upjetting, and let us know how it's going.
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 17, 2015 0:34:12 GMT -6
Alleyoop would you say there's a golden ratio? For instance, should the RPMs be reaching around 4k at halfway up the variator, 5-6k at 3/4, and 7-9k up to the top? I've tuned my 50cc by feel, and have yet to do a variator travel test with a marker like I should have long ago. My new 150cc, I'm going to be ordering sliders for soon, and want to do the marker test first to see which way I should go. From there, I would like to fine tune it as you are suggesting, and after that I can adjust to my preferred feel as before, but this time know a proper base to be working from. BTW- the 150cc is staying between 3-5k on the below 45mph rides I've taken it on so far. What I'll be tuning for is a bit more low-mid range response to tide me over till I decide if I need a BBK, not worried about top end.
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 17, 2015 0:05:06 GMT -6
scoot, jct842, cyborg, jerryscript Ok I've been wheighting for larger main jets and they just showed up in the mail believe it or not.I'm now running a 110 main the new jets are a 112 and a 115 so if I under stand you I may fix the problem with a larger jet .and yes I know I'll have to readjust the a/f is the starting point 1 1/2 out or 2 1/2 out? I've heard both.I look forward to your comments. Have you already raised the needle all the way? If so, then start with the 112 jet and 2 1/2 turns out is a good general starting point, but it's just that, a starting point. If it doesn't start at that setting, and you don't understand the sounds to diagnose the issue, a good old standby is to smell the exhaust. If it smells very strong of gas, then you try leaning it out by a half turn and attempt to start again. Remember, the 2 1/2 turns out is just a starting point when making major changes to the air/fuel system. When you are just moving the needle clip, you are not changing idle, so you leave the a/f screw alone until you take it for a ride and see how it performs under load. Alleyopp has an excellent 4T tuning guide that describes how to test during a ride and what to adjust based on results. Note - If you haven't set your valves within the past 6 months, I would do so before doing a re-jet, just to be sure everything is dialed in. Otherwise you may be compensating for poor valve lash with a/f adjustments, and not truly tuning your carb.
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 16, 2015 19:31:14 GMT -6
You might want to put a strip of rubber between those metal rods and the plastic case itself. That will prevent rattling and scraping sounds, and help even more to prevent cracking. I have the remnants of an old pair of fishing boots I cut rubber strips off of for just such purposes.
Looking forward to seeing the pics! You are definitely getting it done cheaper than most windshields. The cheapo universal windshield that connects to your rear view mirrors runs $35, and it's 1/8" at best (I have two mounted as one for extra thickness on my 50cc during the winter, they accidentally gave me two of the acrylic pieces when I bought it, lucky me), so you are definitely coming out ahead! Did you purchase a particular type of acrylic made for windshields, any coatings or treatments, or just a standard sheet?
I'll definitely be interested in what you work up, as you said, the stock one is a bit too short to provide much benefit, and I'm spoiled having the larger one on my 50cc during the winter.
One thing I'm thinking about modding is the under seat bucket. I don't like having to remove the battery to work on the engine. Once I replace the carb and stock air filter, and remove the emissions crap freeing up room, I think I'll cut the seat bucket just a bit behind the battery box, using the battery box screws to hold down the rear cut off portion. This way I can remove the rear 4/5 of the seat bucket without removing the seat or battery. This only makes a difference after removing the stock air filter and emissions crap, otherwise there still wouldn't be enough room to do anything, and even with this it will only make adjusting the carb easier.
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 16, 2015 19:23:02 GMT -6
You could restrict the tube going into the carb a bit,
Otherwise, try raising the needle by either lowering the clip if it's adjustable, or adding a washer at a time. If it's an adjustable clip, and you move it all the way to the bottom notch, and it's still behaving the same or similar, you need a larger main jet. Remember, each time you move the needle clip or add/remove washers, you have to re-adjust your a/f mixture screw a bit to compensate. Changing the main jet will not adjust idle, so you will need to adjust based on throttle response at speed.
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Post by jerryscript on Jan 16, 2015 19:09:13 GMT -6
I love it! I'm currently designing and getting ready to hopefully begin construction of a tiny house on a trailer this summer. This trike-rv would be the perfect tiny get-away from my tiny house, and is small enough to be towed behind it! If anyone is interested, here's my tiny house design (picture is not latest revision, but link is): SketchUp Warehouse : Jasuta Tiny House on a Trailer
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