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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 24, 2012 20:28:56 GMT -6
I just updated my post on the other thread -- I think I've got it -- I was riding home tonight, and it occurred to me - what if the lights are stuck in the "brake" position instead of the brake lights not lighting?? Simple test - see if it will start without depressing the brake lever. It did. This was also a cheapo brake switch from ebay that I put in just a few months ago, so that shouldn't surprise me either. I'll have to replace the switch to see, but I think it makes sense.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 24, 2012 20:22:16 GMT -6
Good luck on your venture john!
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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 24, 2012 19:44:07 GMT -6
I was riding home tonight, and it occurred to me - what if the lights are stuck in the "brake" position instead of the brake lights not lighting?? Simple test - see if it will start without depressing the brake lever. It did. This was also a cheapo brake switch from ebay that I put in just a few months ago, so that shouldn't surprise me either. I'll have to replace the switch to see, but I think it makes sense.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 20, 2012 9:48:55 GMT -6
I haven't taken the time yet to fix, but the burned out portion of the bulb filament seems to make the most sense. I'll probably wait until spring to fix and replace with LEDs.
I broke the roll pins in my snowblower last year which makes the impeller useless, and you have to dissassemble the whole impeller assembly to fix. that's my current project with the snow predicted for this weekend!
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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 16, 2012 16:19:22 GMT -6
My model has the fuses in the way back of the glove compartment. I see a panel of six engineers arguing about how to make them as inaccessible as possible, and this was the consensus. I recently bought a potpourri of fuses to replace the chinese (one part of the pdi i never did) so i'll have a look there too. I read in an old post that you can buy a raised fuse block which is another thing for my list to make it easier in the future.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 16, 2012 15:44:58 GMT -6
John-
To be honest I was hoping against hope that this was electrical because its a job and a half to access the rear bulbs on this scooter!! I guess there's no way around it and I'll just need to schedule some time to do it.
Thanks to all for the input.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 15, 2012 21:15:13 GMT -6
I bought two floods that I hooked up to the front of the scooter. I'm not sure it would be the splice because the only tap I made was for the on/off switch which I did from one of the dash lights for the speedo. The halogen juice came from a separate set of wires I ran off the battery to a relay. The wiring harness had a ground with a round end somewhere along the way that I stuck in under the frame ground screw I found.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 15, 2012 20:54:57 GMT -6
I finally was going to do some troubleshooting this afternoon but it was too cold. What I did see before I quit was that now the tail lights come on when I just turn the key (without starting). I believe this proves its a short some where - no light ever came on with just the key before. I'm thinking how I might have caused it, and right now the only thing I did was to add two ground wires to a screw-in-the-frame grounding point when I added some lights a month or so ago. I wonder if I ruined the ground in the brake circuit (but then again, it starts no problem.) Hmmmmmmm.
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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 10, 2012 17:27:08 GMT -6
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Post by trailheadmike on Jan 10, 2012 11:59:47 GMT -6
I just noticed last night that my brake lights are not lighting up. The taillights are fine, but they do not light up when the brakes are applied. I replaced one of the brake switches about 4 months ago and I know that the brake lights were working at that time. It seems unlikely that a new and an old switch would go at the same time. Also, it seems equally unlikely to me that the brake portion of the bulb's filament would both go too.
My question is how to troubleshoot this. I have a meter so I assume that I test across the switch leads with the motor running and the brake applied? Can someone let me know what the next step would be if that comes up with a positive result? Thanks.
I have a Linhai version 260 if that matters.
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Post by trailheadmike on Dec 27, 2011 23:44:33 GMT -6
great collection.
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Post by trailheadmike on Dec 8, 2011 16:50:05 GMT -6
Thanks for the suggestions. I like the bake pan/transfer method, and on scootdawg I got a bunch of suggestions about using half an old milk gallon container. All great suggestions, Alleyoop notwithstanding!!! When I first started driving thirty years ago the preferred method was to drain the oil while parked over a storm drain. how times have changed.
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Post by trailheadmike on Dec 8, 2011 9:14:07 GMT -6
I'm now on my fourth oil change, and I have all my old oil sitting in my garage. My method is to take a plastic container and line it with a plastic bag and drain the oil into the bag, with the goal of taking the bag to a gas station for oil recycling.
No matter what I've used the bags have leaked, and I now have three containers with leaked oil, along with plastic bags with oil in them too.
I could use some insight into how to do the next one right. Thanks in advance!!
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Post by trailheadmike on Dec 7, 2011 9:27:24 GMT -6
Glad you're ok. I had a very similar crash, and my attacker was a young kid in an old lexus wearing sunglasses at night. I ended up replacing some parts and "repairing" some with ABS cement. I was OK, and to his credit, the kid showed up with the money I asked for for the parts when he said he would.
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Post by trailheadmike on Nov 13, 2011 16:33:41 GMT -6
You can end up on the wrong side of that trade as well. I've bought some led's on ebay for much less than superbrightleds, where i like to shop, and sometimes they're ok, and sometimes they're so dim that you are reminded that you really do get what you pay for.
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