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Post by bige on Nov 20, 2010 6:09:37 GMT -6
I have run the ncy 61mm slip in cylinder on several gy6 150's. all had trouble with the lower section of the sleeve cracking. I now run the ncy 59mm kit with no issues
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cdi
by: bige - Nov 1, 2010 6:05:52 GMT -6
Post by bige on Nov 1, 2010 6:05:52 GMT -6
it could be a dc cdi unit. most gy6 have a ac cdi system and it can be hard to tell the difference. the dc units I have are bigger than the ac ones. how many wires does yours have going to the two wire plug?
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Post by bige on Oct 30, 2010 5:16:40 GMT -6
Thanks, we carry alot of NCY GY6 parts and have alot of cn/cfmoto 250 parts also. we have a new ported head and cams for the 250's that really wake them up
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Post by bige on Oct 29, 2010 8:33:39 GMT -6
I have tried them and could not get it to work good enough to keep it
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Post by bige on Oct 29, 2010 8:31:39 GMT -6
7500-8500 is about right for a stock machine, my wife's modded gy6 will turn 10,250 That's an awful lot of revs for a long stroke engine. How's its oil consumption? it dosent use very much oil at all. I put a little over 100 miles on it this past week end and its full
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Post by bige on Oct 21, 2010 10:56:21 GMT -6
there are a couple of different "P" motors, one has a 3 inch stud spacing and the other is 3.5 If I rememeber right
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Post by bige on Oct 16, 2010 8:32:35 GMT -6
that shaft is the crankshaft, it shouldnt move very much
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Post by bige on Oct 16, 2010 6:40:21 GMT -6
I dont know if this has been discussed but here are some links, this talks about a mini quad with a cvt and works the same for the scooters Of the many modifications that are routinely performed, clutch tuning is probably the most misunderstood. It's thought by many to be a matter of hit and miss, or more supremely a black art of sorts. This article will attempt to dispel some of these misunderstandings and offer some insight into the how's and why's of mini quad clutch adjustment. The principles described here apply to all of the Asian mini-quads as well as some of the Japanese minis as well such as the LT80. Before jumping into how to do it, it's necessary to understand what the clutch does and why it was designed that way to begin with. The automatic CVT, or continuously variable transmission, is a cousin of your typical multi-speed, constant-mesh, gear-driven manual gearbox. Whereas the manual trans requires proper selection of the gear ratio to maintain power, the automatic trans does the thinking for the rider. Of course, for novice riders the auto trans is a huge advantage in simplifying the riding experience. No worrying about stalling the engine, or keeping it in the right gear- it's all done magically by the CVT. However, unlike the CVT's other cousin, the automotive style automatic transmission, the CVT is designed very cleverly to continuously vary the transmission gear ratio to do one thing only- hold the engine speed constant. This concept is key, and the crux to the whole tuning exercise. If you were to examine the power curve of a typical 2-cycle engine it would rise, and then fall very quickly near its power peak- hence the notorious reputation of the 2-stroke as a "pipey" variety compared to the more docile and predictable 4-stroke. The question becomes- if you were limited to operating your engine at only one rpm, what would it be? The rpm at which peak power occurs, of course, and therein lies the beauty of the CVT transmission- it's ability to hold the engine there. The job of the clutch tuner is to identify that point and dial it in. When modifying your engine you've more than likely shifted that peak power rpm. The original equipment manufacturer (OEM) has probably optimized his gearing to coincide with the stock machine’s peak power rpm. Without readjusting the clutching to realign the controlled rpm with the new power peak, full advantage of the engine mod may not be realized. In the example above, the stock clutch would be adjusted to hold the engine at 8000 rpm from the factory. If the clutch wasn't readjusted to run at 9500 rpm, only a 50% improvement would be gained since there's only another 1.7 hp available at 8000 rpm. Not too shabby, but if the clutch was properly adjusted then max power available to the quad would be nearly 100% higher, or double! Not to worry, most performance shops will sell you their products with either recommendations for a particular clutch setup, or provide the clutch hardware as part of their kit. They've no doubt ran their own hardware and through their own extensive testing have determined that a certain set of rollers and spring result in the best performance. Realize though, that there are subtle (and not so subtle) differences between machines, and the recommended atv.off-road.com/atv/tech/cvt-clutch-tuning-basics-part-2-understanding-the-fundamentals-18813.htmlatv.off-road.com/atv/tech/cvt-clutch-tuning-basics-part-3-making-the-adjustments-18814.htmlI have run both and seems like the rollers react quicker than the sliders, the sliders I feel more acceleration and a little more top speed
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Post by bige on Oct 14, 2010 13:15:55 GMT -6
Hey Guys, here is my two cents worth on rollers vs sliders. It is just a personal thing, I used to race buggies with the GY6 150 motor round an oval track etc. I always found I got better response from the rollers, especially when you fine tune them by mixing the weights up. By response I mean I found that the variator responded by opening and closing quicker with a good quality set of rollers and variator. I am no engineer, but my gut also tells me something round will move more freely than something with a flatter surface. This is just my personal experience, I also tried sliders vs rollers in my custom scooter that I built, and again I preferred the rollers. This makes for an interesting debate, but another way to look at it, is does the difference in price possibly warrant the difference in performance (??) some may differ with me. By the way I have had my scooter up to 74mph and it still had more to go, with 12grm rollers. so that was one of your secrets, just remeber who out ran you on the street that day and could finally keep up with you on the oval
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oil
by: bige - Oct 14, 2010 12:54:46 GMT -6
Post by bige on Oct 14, 2010 12:54:46 GMT -6
oil can be high, I have been using motorex and silkolene
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Post by bige on Oct 14, 2010 12:51:50 GMT -6
I had one in my shop that did the same thing, replaced all the componets with known good ones. turned out there was a ground wire in the middle of the harness that was bad
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oil
by: bige - Oct 14, 2010 12:41:56 GMT -6
Post by bige on Oct 14, 2010 12:41:56 GMT -6
I have always used 4t motorcycle oil in all of mine with no issues, my gy6 is an 06 model and just had its first rebuild last november
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Post by bige on Oct 14, 2010 5:13:26 GMT -6
I have a couple of stock variators with rollers I dont need,
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Post by bige on Oct 8, 2010 10:38:30 GMT -6
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Post by bige on Oct 8, 2010 7:43:10 GMT -6
7500-8500 is about right for a stock machine, my wife's modded gy6 will turn 10,250. It has a 2mm stroker crank, 59mm cylinder, A-11 cam, performance cdi, exhaust, k&n filter, 12 gram sliders, 1500 ncy main spring, stock clutch, stock head and intake.
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