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Post by fugaziiv on Sept 30, 2016 8:05:00 GMT -6
Remember a certain PERSON'S ill fated attempt to ride a Chinese scooter to Key West. Here's a much smarter young man's trip from Michigan to Miami, FL on a Bintelli 50cc. Darned if he isn't doing it without engine rebuilds. joshjourneys.com/Ugh... the memories. Good on this guy though. Looks like it's quite a bit better thought out... Matt |
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Post by fugaziiv on Sept 29, 2016 15:36:50 GMT -6
Yea the moped kick starts and starts and it runs. But because i have a stroker and a big bore kit, it keeps breaking the teeth off. So i only use kick start when im stranded. But i researched symtoms of a bad starter and you guys were right. I bought a new high torque starter. So hopefully itll do it That should fix it. As soon as you mention a stroker and BBK, you are immediately in tired starter territory and you need to replace that with a hi-tq unit. I bet that will solve your issue. A stroke and BBK will expose a poor quality starter pretty quickly with some use. Matt |
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Post by fugaziiv on Sept 29, 2016 15:33:21 GMT -6
Feeling's mutual. Happy Birthday!
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Post by fugaziiv on Sept 29, 2016 14:07:25 GMT -6
Probably won't know until you get it running again. The amperage in a car's charging system tends to fry the regulator first, and then battery. I've seen it cause stators to go bad as well.
Does your bike have the kickstart on it? Does the bike kick over freely? If so at least you aren't hanging up and there is a good possibility it's the starter going bad. It happens.
If the bike doesn't kick over freely, unfortunately it might be time to start taking things apart...
Matt
Edit: or bad connections too... always gotta check those as John and Cyborg mentioned.
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Post by fugaziiv on Sept 29, 2016 13:40:18 GMT -6
Justin, Don't play, you're a credit sucking vacuum. lol
Matt
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 17, 2014 9:19:45 GMT -6
Get the Prima stuff from Scooterworks. Works fine, super affordable. I don't carry those cables yet, but I have them in the works.
Matt
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 17, 2014 8:35:02 GMT -6
Just roll with steels and slide them into the sheath when you break one. It's pretty much what we all do on our old shiftys, because when one breaks you probably aren't going to be in a position to re-route a whole cable. Stuff the spares in the back of your glovebox. You can replace the sheaths when you do an engine off service, y'know, should you ever need to, or if a sheath actually does start to show some wear through.
Just my .02
Matt
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 9, 2014 12:18:09 GMT -6
Yep, the PWK carbs are normally used for 2T applications, but really are just a Flat Slide Throttle direct style carb that has been used in all kinds of racing applications for pretty much ever. We just used that for the instant throttle response that it gives, and is also much easier to tune NO2 with this style of carb. For street use I'd still go with the more standard CVK carb though. It'll provide plenty of fuel with a more friendly application of the throttle, which is far better for the longevity of the engine and your transmission parts. Matt Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions..... I did a little more searching about PWK vs CVK and learned a great deal... These scooter forums are awesome! Anyhow, I wound up selecting the 30mm CVK Hoca carb to go with this engine. How do you think that carb will work out with this 180cc power kit? With a little bit of tuning, I'm sure it'll be great. Matt |
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 9, 2014 11:49:08 GMT -6
I honestly think that for the vast majority of street applications on a 4t bike a CVK just does a good job, and tends to do so trouble free. Slides are great too. Personally I run a slide on my P bike, (Because it's the hot rod out of my bikes... Always broken.) but on my Daily GT200 I'm all about the nice linear response from the stock CVK.
Matt
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 9, 2014 9:11:48 GMT -6
My GT200 sounds like a little diesel when cold. She warms up quick and is gone. I've heard others with a similar noise on startup. It never bothered me, and the old girl keeps on running so I've always just chalked it up to the character of the engine. Something to note however is that the GT and the GTS are different engines. I'd snoop around the ModernVespa.com forums though. Those guys will give you an idea of what is and is not an acceptable noise on the GTS.
Matt
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 9, 2014 9:06:26 GMT -6
Hey Matt, thanks for the reply. yes, that does answer my questions. However, now I have a new one!  The Hoca carb you listed says it is a 2 stroke carb. Did you have to do any mods to use this type of carb? Also, what are the pros/cons of using a PWK over a CVK? BTW: The Cyber Monday sale was awesome! I purchased one of these motors and will be publishing a video review later. Yep, the PWK carbs are normally used for 2T applications, but really are just a Flat Slide Throttle direct style carb that has been used in all kinds of racing applications for pretty much ever. We just used that for the instant throttle response that it gives, and is also much easier to tune NO2 with this style of carb. For street use I'd still go with the more standard CVK carb though. It'll provide plenty of fuel with a more friendly application of the throttle, which is far better for the longevity of the engine and your transmission parts. Matt |
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 9, 2014 9:02:24 GMT -6
thanks,,,1/4 mile?,,,,1/8th?,,,and what numbers were you running,,,,bracket racing? We were running 1/8th mile, both heads up and bracket, although we only ran the NO2 during Heads up, so bracket was slow going since the bike was geared and weighted for running NO2. I was doing pretty good in bracket, but ended up having a really stupendous light and broke out by something like .01 right at the end. It was a bummer. Heads up though we were running high 8's if memory serves with top speeds in the high 60's/low 70's. Tom here is looking for the time slips, so when he finds them I'll update with more accurate information. This year if we find the time to go racing again, we'll probably try building with the 4v head and stroker crank. The HOCA and other Taiwan product that we have was actually going faster than larger Taida builds for a fraction of the price. Matt |
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 8, 2014 17:00:16 GMT -6
Sorry to pepper you with questions Matt,,, you runnin a 2 valve head or 4?,,what kind of piston are you runnin?forged or cast?,,,i got a million more but i don't want to completely swamp you,,,lol Cyborg, We didn't balance anything since we built it in the drag racing parking lot the day before the races. Our race engine that we brought blew up right as we got there, so it was a true off the shelf parts test. No porting or polishing, no special attention but she ran like a champ and won trophies. Forged piston. Our PN is 169-341, but for some reason the part isn't displaying on the website, so I'll have to fix that... Also, for this build we stuck with the 2v head instead of the 4v. We wanted the stout low end that you get with a 2v over the free top end of the 4v. Maybe next time we'll build it out with the 4v as she got a little cattywompus on me at the line. Good stuff! Matt |
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Post by fugaziiv on Dec 8, 2014 16:53:13 GMT -6
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Post by fugaziiv on Sept 18, 2014 7:52:31 GMT -6
Miami through the south, a lot easier and IMO a heck lot more to see and enjoy.  JR I concur. Matt |
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