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New Scoot.
by: runningslow - Jan 27, 2012 9:56:59 GMT -6
Post by runningslow on Jan 27, 2012 9:56:59 GMT -6
where does it state the foot peg law? i might have to weld an extra set of pegs closer to his legs, maybe some that you can flip up when not in use. I don't think I've ever seen it written, but it was something told to me by my instructor during the MSF course. I did a quick search for it and I found a reference here: www.flbikers.com/ridingdouble.aspxI know that not an official statement of the law, but its coming from somewhere. EDIT: Looks like the official statute is a little more vague, but I think it still says the same thing: (1) Any motorcycle carrying a passenger, other than in a sidecar or enclosed cab, shall be equipped with footrests for such passenger.Basically, you need footpegs that are appropriate for the passenger. Taken from here: www.leg.state.fl.us/Statutes/index.cfm?App_mode=Display_Statute&Search_String=&URL=0300-0399/0316/Sections/0316.2095.html |
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New Scoot.
by: runningslow - Jan 27, 2012 8:48:00 GMT -6
Post by runningslow on Jan 27, 2012 8:48:00 GMT -6
...also she will be using the one we choose to take our 5 yr old to his preK every morning, as well as ride with me when i go somewhere. I believe Florida law requires the passenger be able to reach the foot pegs. Just something to keep in mind. I've tried to get my wife interested in riding. She's ridden on the back of mine a few times and even driven it herself around the cul-de-sac that we used to live on, but my Matrix just isn't suited well for a short rider. The seat is high and wide. Its great for my 6'-2" frame, but not so much for her at 5'-3". She has to actually slide off the seat to put her feet down on the ground at a stop. I think she'd enjoy it more with her own scoot, that actually fits her. I've debated getting her a scoot of her own, a retro of some kind, but it just hasn't been in our finances, yet. |
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Chat Room
by: runningslow - Jan 26, 2012 11:19:18 GMT -6
Post by runningslow on Jan 26, 2012 11:19:18 GMT -6
Somebody referred to that as "crickets in here".  Rich Ha! So, there are bugs in the software? ;D |
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Post by runningslow on Jan 25, 2012 11:52:52 GMT -6
Supposed to be a high of 80 today. A shame the Matrix isn't roadworthy at the moment. I'm missing out on the good riding season!!
EDIT: Oh and I've definitely experienced the joy of black ice growing up in Michigan. Seem to recall a trip to school where my older brother may have been driving a little too fast (even though the roads were clear) and we we hit a patch of black ice, fish-tailed a few times... taking out a sign on the left side of the road and ending up in the ditch on the right side.
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Post by runningslow on Jan 23, 2012 7:51:48 GMT -6
im positive you got the tdc on point if not within a link away from true tdc. i set it on mine using a feeler and it works just fine, im sure your throttle issue is something else. You're probably right. The symptoms really look like a fuel issue. I'm going to adjust the valves tonight. If that doesn't help, I'll pull the carb again for another cleaning and I'll look into a compression tester. Looks like I can get one from Harbor Freight for about $20. If compression is good and another good carb cleaning doesn't help, I'll just order a new carb. If the timing is off, it has to be only a link, maybe two. If that's the case, shouldn't it at least start to rev and then just run rough? EDIT: If I can get it to idle, does that at least mean the Pilot Jet is clear? |
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Post by runningslow on Jan 22, 2012 17:56:30 GMT -6
I have never had any luck on a GY6 with a wire or straw in the plug hole.. it is really easy to overshoot the TDC. The cam chain links are very small and it sure doesn't take much to be out a link Yes I have seen engines idle with the cam chain off the bottom crank sprocket...there is enough friction to keep thing going but when you rev the cam chain slips and the timing goes south... The tensioner... is the cam chain good and taught on both sides of the cam sprocket? Sure... will get George, I will contact his agent... I don't think the chain is off the sprocket, because it reliably restarts after each attempt. So the timing stays consistent, even if its not correct. Also the tension on the chain seems good. Looks like I may need to start marking the chain and adjusting it link by link. I want to rule out fuel issues first though. Sent from my MoPho using the ProBoards App |
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Post by runningslow on Jan 22, 2012 16:12:21 GMT -6
You could be out a link on the cam sprocket...the engine will idle but won't rev.. the timing is out... If you used the flywheel T mark.. then this is probably the case... if you used the TDC of the piston then the cam chain is likely OK, but I have seen engines where the mechanic replaced the head and the cam chain slipped off the crank sprocket and is sitting to one side of it...you can see if that is your problem by looking doen the cam chain well with a very bright light... Is the cam chain tensioner working? It is all coming back to me now...I want the rights to the movie  There are so many things that I know now that I wish I knew before pulling the head. Most prominently would be marking the chain and sprocket. I tried my best to determine TDC with a wire down the spark plug hole. I found it little hard to find that precise moment at the top of the stroke, so its possible I have it a link or two past TDC. Without pulling the head, are there any better ways to check for TDC? I want to avoid pulling the head for the reasons mentioned in the previous post  If the cam chain slipped off the crank sprocket, would the bike even idle?? How can I tell if the tensioner is working? Movie rights? Ha. Only if you get George Clooney to play me. ;D |
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Post by runningslow on Jan 22, 2012 14:56:00 GMT -6
At 12k miles the engine is approaching it's final stages on average... so compression check would be advised..however.. the low RPM bogging is much more likely a fuel problem as Alley mentioned. I would just replace the carb... Sprocket, the engine in question only has about 3-4,000 miles on it. It replaced my original motor that lost a main bearing at about 9,000 miles. I'm not so worried about it being compression... ...however, that being said, I just replaced the head on the new engine with that of the old engine. If any of you may recall, the head on the new engine decided to crack at one the exhaust studs. I had to use my old used head, because both of these engines are QMK (QML) engines with a slightly oversized head bolt spacing. During that replacement, I had to resuse a head gasket, because I could not NOT find a suitable replacement. I cleaned it best I could and coated it with Permatex copper. Scrappy lists a QMK gasket set, but the head gasket was not correct. SO, its very possible I have a leaking cylinder, but I haven't seen any oil leaks yet. We'll see if it holds. I hope it just turns out to be a fuel issue and I'll get a new carb. |
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Post by runningslow on Jan 21, 2012 18:31:18 GMT -6
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO WATER in a spray bottle.... OK, must be time to check my meds.... Sent from my MoPho using the ProBoards App |
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Post by runningslow on Jan 21, 2012 18:10:56 GMT -6
OK then it has air and I assume your spark is good? Then the problem is with the carb or fuel flow...or compression. Do you have a fuel pump or petcock? At 12K miles both are on their way out likely... Could be a faulty float, plugged fuel filter, wrong type of fuel filter, the fuel filter is backwards in the line... vacuum leaks around the intake elbow...bad/leaking vacuum line somewhere...that sort of thing... Strong white spark. May be compression... The next thing I'm checking are the valves. Petcock. It worked fine when I sucked on the vacuum line. Fuel filter was replaced this morning with B&S filter, oriented the same as the one it replaced. I should probably check for leaks. Gas in a spray bottle, right? I'll probably just replace all the hoses when I get paid anyway. Thanks again, Sprocket. Sent from my MoPho using ProBoards |
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Post by runningslow on Jan 21, 2012 11:59:13 GMT -6
Is the engine cold or hot like for 15 minutes when it dies? Check the diaphragm in top and be certain it isn't twisted. Usually there is a tab or cut-out on the rubber that must align with a tab or cutout in the carb body... Sounds like a weird carb... for the $30... if you can't get it happening I would replace the carb... Also make sure the slider with the needle can be easily raised and it comes back down...do this through the air intake with a pencil...also check your air filter and try running it with no filter attached.. Bike will idle, I presume, indefinitely. I was able to tell the point when the choke closed off, because it started to stumble. The engine cuts out the moment the throttle is twisted or if I turn the idle screw too much. No tab on the diaphragm, but the slider is keyed that it only goes in one way. If (when) I take it apart again, I'll take some pictures. I'll take the air filter out. I know its old and probably clogged. We'll see if that helps. Its on my list of things to replace anyway when I get payed at the end of the month. I may replace the carb if it comes to that, but this carb has worked fine for nearly 12,000 miles and was working fine when I had the other problems. EDIT: No Air Filter... no change. Going to let it cool for a few hours and check the valves later this evening. |
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Post by runningslow on Jan 21, 2012 11:36:50 GMT -6
Ok. Clean gas. New fuel filter. Cleaned the carb again.
Scooter will idle. As soon as its given any throttle, the bike dies. Thoughts?
I'm wondering if I didn't put the carb back together correctly. I can't find a diagram that matches mine. I have 4 screws on the top over the diaphragm (not 2 like all the diagrams I've found) and there's a little plastic tripod (kinda looks like the thing you'll find in the center of your pizza, only smaller) that goes with the needle.
EDIT: I'm also at the moment going to let it cool down and make sure the valves are set right. Again.
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Post by runningslow on Jan 20, 2012 19:50:18 GMT -6
Drain the fuel, flush the tank and lines...the gas is varnish by now...replace the fuel filter with a new one designed for gravity feed system... like riding mowers, generators... clean the petcock or fuel pump... then totally disassemble the carb and clean... running fine wires through all the jets and all the passages in the ventura. The point is this the old gas coats all the passages with varnish.. it can't fully be removed with carb cleaner... it MUST be removed manually with a wire... Then you should be fine... Your odometer is likely in kilometers.. so you may want to check that on a measured mile... then convert for Fuelly...95% of Chinese scooters have kilometer odometers, no matter what the speedo is calibrated in... Thanks Sprocket. I'll take care of the gas stuff in the morning. I've been around this forum long enough, you think I'd know the basic things like this. I did run a wire though them, but I'm sure I left crap behind. When the factory gauges worked (I think I need to check the cable) the speedometer and odometer are actually digital and I have the option to switch back and forth between km and miles. Although, most of that recent mileage that was put into Fuelly was done via my bicycle speedometer/odometer. I never got phenomenal gas mileage, but remember this thing is a 170cc. |
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Post by runningslow on Jan 20, 2012 19:21:47 GMT -6
Ok, could all humor me....
I got finally got sick of the Matrix taking up space in my garage, so I finally decided to buckle down and get her running. I checked the timing by sticking a piece of wire down the spark plug hole and finding TDC, then I realigned the cam sprocket and put it back together. I then gave the carb a quick cleaning.
She's now idling fine in my garage, but as soon as I give her any gas she chokes. Do I need to do a better carb cleaning? Should I play with air/fuel screw? Help!
Of course this is the gas that's been sitting in the tank for a few months. In the morning, I plan to drain it and put in some fresh gasoline, but I don't want to run out to a gas station this evening.
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Post by runningslow on Jan 9, 2012 10:16:16 GMT -6
What size are your tires? My scoot has the same in front as in back. 130/60R13, if memory serves.
You could also try getting your tires somewhere else to see if you can get the right size. I have always gotten my tires from Motorcycle-Superstore. The first replacement I had a motorcycle dealer install, but the second replacements I installed myself with some help from a friend.
Original tires were Duro. Not too bad.
First replacement rear tire was a Michelin Pilot City. Nice tire, but wore too quickly.
Current Tires, front and rear are Kenda K413. Acceptable ride quality, but I don't know about durability, yet.
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Rich
