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When you try to start it, I take it that's by the electric starter switch and not the kick start? Can you move the kick start?
If it's a high pitched metallic shriek kind of noise that could be broken starter gear teeth, and it's just spinning and not properly engaging.
If you can't move the kick start, something may have jammed up.
If it made noises while on the move and stalled out, I'd pull the CVT cover to make sure it's all o.k. in there. Variator and or belt may have broken.
As sprocket says, it may be mechanical, so I'd physically check those first before trying any more to get it started. Pull the starter motor, remove CVT cover, and go from there if all look right.

wrapped the loom all back up nice and tidy, connected all the plugs back onto where they should go and then thought, give it a try, the damn thing started up
Worked with both CDI's.
I then went around pulling and twisting all the connections, banging the ignition switch, pulling on the harness, even gave the whole scoot a good shaking!! just carried on running!

Only thing I found, there was a quiet 'ticking' noise now and then when moving the wires near the CDI, pulled the rubber boot off the coil and moved the wires again. There was arcing on the spade connector of the black and yellow wire.
Closed the spades up a bit with pliers so they fit tight and the arcing stopped.

I don't get it, I tried a different coil previously with no luck.

All I can think is, it was that coil connection, the kill switch is on it's way out (have a new one coming) or the ignition switch is on it's way out.

When I do a continuity test on the black/white wire with the connector plugged into the CDI (I only have a 'dial' tester, not a buzzer type) the needle moves slightly when I turn on the ignition. If I unplug the blk/wht from the CDI and do it again the needle drops to 'no circuit' when I turn on the ignition!

Gonna finish putting the last couple of panels on tomorrow and go for a ride on local roads and not stray too far from home. It's really bugging me now because I hav'nt fund a definitive cause.

Mike

tvnacman,
engine ground is fine and dandy and now the harness is exposed I can see the wire is in great shape too. I also think I replaced the ring connector on it a while ago as the original looked a bit 'weak'.

sprocket,
I'll try your suggestions today.
To be honest, I'm hoping it's the CDI as everything else I've tested appears to be functioning as it should. I'll wrap the harness back up today as I don't think there are any wiring problems, do a few more tests and then wait for the new CDI to come.
The other (spare, original) CDI has been rattling around in the under seat bucket since July last year. Maybe it's had a rough time and won't work anymore. The one that's on the scoot now is an orange/red Bando, I bought it in the hope it would be a better stronger constructed piece of kit!

I've seen a CDI in a few places online, usually gold or blue in colour with the connector on the end of a short harness and heat sink fins molded into the case. Wondered if anyone has used this type and what it's like?

Thanks for all the help guys, especially sprocket, being able to talk it out has given me the understanding to try and test what needs to be done.

I'll let you know how it goes if I get the thing running!!

Mike

Buford,
kickstand switch is long gone, removed it a long time ago so as not to have any problems from it.

Sprocket,
when you say test the kill switch, how do you mean? I removed the switch and used a circuit tester and it works as a switch should, contact or no contact.
If the switch is removed, is it not as though the switch is there and in the 'run' position. When the switch is on the scoot and in the 'not run' position it's basically joining the 2 wires on the back of it together creating the ground?
If the ignition switch and/or kill switch were bad, would I not get the same reading from a circuit test if the black/white wire was connected or disconnected from the CDI (if that makes sense?)

Electric circuits give me a head ache trying to figure them out

Got a new CDI coming, will most likely only know for sure once that is here.

Thanks guys,

Mike

Nearly forgot, if there was a bad ground somewhere would that not cause other problems? like head lights going dim when the brake lever is pulled. I had everything turned on, lights, emergency flashers, brake light....and when I pressed the horn button no lights dimmed or anything!
The 2 green arrow lights on the instrument cluster has me stumped, they've never done that before or since!!
Got me thinking now, I took the muffs of the handle bars today and the left one is very close to the emergency flasher switch, maybe it was too close and had the switch in an almost on position.

Tested stator, 133 vAC from red/black wire, 1 vAC from blue yellow wire.
Unplugged ignition switch and have continuity from black/white wire. turn switch on and the circuit is broken. With it plugged into the harness there is continuity with with the key in the on and off position.
Unplugged kill switch on handlebar, no circuit in the 'run' position, continuity in the 'not run' position.

I guess that leaves me stripping down the harness and tracing the black/white wire to see if it's shorted somewhere

Mike.

Forgot to add, all lights and controls work. The funny thing I noticed this morning when first trying to start it again is the 2 lights on the instrument cluster that flash with the direction indicators came on briefly!

Cheers guys
The closest I have to that at the moment is a 115, so I can get a 112 and still have the larger one in reserve if I need it.

Many thanks,

Mike

(hey Sprocket, my brakes feel really good now )

Thanks Jake.
I really want to have a go at that, I should be able to mount the strips a few inches further forward on my scoots lamps, bummer that happened to yours.

Cheers,
Mike