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Post by wildman on Feb 3, 2011 1:51:36 GMT -6
mctojs How did you break it in??? There's a couple of possibilities here that will cause blow-by which causes the engine to blow oil & or burn the oil... You said in your last post that the ring gaps were in a straight line... IF the rings were installed right the first time, it's vary possible for the rings to rotate out of position from lack of back pressure... If the rings have rotated that a good sign there's not enough back pressure to seat the rings against the cylinder wall 100%... If there's enough back preasure to properly seat the rings they won't rotate... David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Feb 2, 2011 21:57:29 GMT -6
A looker I'm w/ you on belts, parts, & prices my friend... Shopping around is key... All last summer I was trying to decide if the higher priced Gates Premium, & the Gates Premium Kevlar belts are truly worth the extra $ or not... Though I have found places for under $25.00 each on the non Kevlar Gates, & under $30.00 for what they call a Gates Kevlar... But w/ 3 scoots that still can be tough on the wallet... I'm going to give the Zhuping belt for $6.00 each a try and see how they hold up... I got a couple direct from China... Looking to find Gates Belts Direct out of China or some place in small lots as well...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Jan 30, 2011 12:37:28 GMT -6
buford Muffler has the same ground clearence as the trike does, & tail pipe is insignificent because it's w/ in the area between the tires... If this exhaust system hits the ground, then that means the trike is not on the road, & it's probably in a field or the woods somewhere, & if that's the case I believe there's a bigger issue then weather the exhaust is hitting the ground... NOW, explain to me & the other Dawg's how this exhaust system will hit the road w/ 4 - 4 1/2" ground clearance, which is the same as the trike... I went through several pain staking hours of looking, measuring, & analizing before cutting, or welding to get this exhaust exactly where I wanted it...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Jan 29, 2011 17:31:48 GMT -6
Big Al You might consider draining the tank, filter & gas line... Fill w/ fresh gas from a different gas station & add dry gas... There's a good chance you got a tank of gas that had a lot of water in it... Wouldn't hurt to put a clean dry gas filter too... This time of year you never know forsure...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Jan 27, 2011 1:54:37 GMT -6
Al No, it's completely welded... From what I've seen in other mufflers of simular design, the 1/4" packing mat seems to hold up real good when used as a body wall insulation because the exhaust doesn't flow through the packing like it does in a Glass Pack... The difference is w/ a body wall insulation design the exhaust only flows through the open volume (empty space) the baffles breaks up the flow & the sound waves that's produced, bounces into the packing & absorbing the sound waves, so the sound waves aren't bouncing off the steel body walls... Where as w/ the glass pack, the exhaust flows into the perferated core, (here's the difference) when the exhaust gets into the perferated core the exhaust doesn't just go staight through, the exhaust has to expand because of all the perferation in the core, so when it expands it has to expand through the packing because the core is wrapped w/ the packing... So because the exhaust is actaully expanding through the packing in a Glass Pack muffler so it tears up the packing & blows it out... So to sum this up, the difference is the insulated baffled muffler absorbs sound waves produced by expanding exhaust gases... The Glass Pack muffler absorbs exhaust gas expansion... So I'm not really conserned w/ the packing...
As far as controlling the restriction w/ the baffle core, the answer is yes I can change the restriction w/ in the baffle core... My baffle design is vary simular to the Briggs & Stratton's design, which is a vary basic & vary simple design, but gets the job done vary well... To restrict the exhaust flow, it's just a matter of pressing a narrow sleeve into the inlet end of the baffle core to block off a row of holes in the baffle core, which is exposed through the muffler inlet pipe... Which makes this muffler a tuneable muffler...
I apoligize, but I have to pat myself on the back on this one, as I'm tickled pink or blue w/ this exhaust system build... But dialing it all in is a spring time job...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Jan 25, 2011 22:05:18 GMT -6
A Doc's This my Custom Stainless Steel Performance Exhaust System for my Ice Bear PST150-11 Trike... This system is 100% Stainless Steel, & 100% my design & workmanship... Muffler body wall is insulated for sound dampening... Muffler body is 4" OD x 11" L, w/ a 1 5/8" Baffle Core drilled w/ 36, 7/32" D holes in & 36, 7/32" D holes out... Also has a 10" Tail Pipe... Head Pipe is 1 1/4" OD... Below is an 8 min. sound byte of the Exhaust & pics of the build...
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Post by wildman on Jan 16, 2011 13:19:27 GMT -6
mflorek I took the basic hole layout from the NCY clutch bell... But really the hole placement is really kind of insignificant... You just don't want to get them to close together, you want to keep them spread out & w/ in the clutch pad matting surface area of the clutch bell... Also vary important that they are free of burs... This combined w/ media blasted surface area of the clutch pad matting surface area of the clutch bell is great for breaking in new clutch pads & to deglaze that surface area of the clutch bell... As far as the painting of the clutch bell, it's nice & looks good, it's also questionable for dissipating heat, as paint tends to contain heat, though heat dissipation & heat dissipating properties of different types of paint is not my area of expertise, so I can't really say it's wrong or right...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Dec 20, 2010 0:41:22 GMT -6
A Doc's It 23 deg. & lots of snow, but today the roads were clear & dry... The BEAR had another great 50 mile run today... The upgraded Final Drive is working flawlessly, NICE, NICE!!!
Anyone that decides to upgrade the final drive unit w/ the added bearing will need to open the oil passage between the final drive unit & the forward/ reverse gear box to 1/2" diameter so the gear oil can flow back & forth between the to units... If this isn't done the gear oil gets sucked into the final unit from the forward/ reverse gear box causing the final unit to become over full & then spitting the gear oil out the vent... Enlarging the passage to 1/2" will fix this...
Alley I relayed this to Jim, so I'm sure he'll look into this on your trike...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Dec 8, 2010 21:55:09 GMT -6
Yep, I'm in Western New York (Eastern Wayne County)... I'm ready for spring already!!! Are we going to be buried until January & then have 80 deg. weather the month of January like we did 16 years ago or so (the warmest January in history) Or are going to be blasted & buried all winter into March??? I won't say cold cause I know quite a few states get colder then New York State does... David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Dec 5, 2010 18:31:15 GMT -6
royldoc Ya had to clean up the inside, had a lots of burs... The only thing you have to worry about really, is the burs... The burs could tear up the pads like a cheese grater... I went after it w/ a Dremel... I've put a little over 60 miles on since & it looks good...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Dec 4, 2010 23:47:28 GMT -6
Cruiser You have it about right...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Dec 4, 2010 12:52:53 GMT -6
Bashan I won't argue, but it's still a little more complicated then that... I don't run 0w-50, I run 0w-30, I'm at question w/ oils w/ a pour rate of 50... I have a Yamaha 650cc that calls for 20w-50 which I do use 20w-50 in, cause it's a hot screaming engine... Otherwise I wouldn't even think of it, I'm not even crazy about 15w-40, but I do use it in some cases... It's my belief that when considering the type of oil, you need to consider your season temperature, engine operating temperature, & more importantly engine component clearances, the tighter the component the thinner the oil should be cold & hot... Now what makes Full Synthetic 0w-30 or 40 a good all around oil, as well as 5w-30 or 40, 10w-30 or 40, is 30 & 40 simply means the oil will maintain it's pour rate into the low cold temperatures, & in the high temperature as well... The synthetic additives are polymers add to the oil to allow the oil to stay attached to the engine components when sitting idle (non operational) so your engine doesn't dry start... There are a couple of manufactures that put Mobile 1 full synthetic 0w-30 in there engine right from the factory... Also the 0w-30 & 40 oil is also being used on the NASCAR Racing Circuit (in extreme heat)... It's my opinion the thinner oils allows for a better barrier in close tolerances, & thinner oil will cool faster... But it's also my opinion this does not make the other oils a bad choice ether... Where choice of oil would be much more critical would be hours of operation in an industrial environment... Our engines (all types) our run for shorter periods making the choice of oil a little less critical...
Types of oil can be a confusing topic to think about & can get over whelming & stressful... So look at the facts, form your own opinion, live it, & own it...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Dec 4, 2010 0:06:58 GMT -6
Well, I've been riding into the 20's... I where Long Johns, quilted flannel shirt, insulated leather motorcycle coat, leather chaps, & insulated leather motorcycle gloves... I'm good for 30 - 45 minutes out (25 -35 miles) w/ a warm up break & 30 - 45 minutes (25 -35 miles) back in to home... That's about all I can muster, then it calls for a 40 gallon hot shower to thaw out... Last night I did a 20 mile midnight ride at 28 deg. I'll say one thing, the leather does a good job shielding the cold, but when that leather gets cold & you get cold, that's it, you're all done...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Dec 3, 2010 23:33:00 GMT -6
I'm running Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 0w-30...
David Sr.
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Post by wildman on Dec 2, 2010 21:25:19 GMT -6
Want a cooler running clutch & don't have the $ or maybe just a little tight to buy a performance Clutch & Clutch Bell??? Well here's a mod anyone can do if you have access to a drill press, a measuring tape, #19 drill bit, & a center bit... I put a performance clutch on my trike, but my pockets dried up so I didn't have the money for the performance vented clutch bell... So I vented my stock clutch bell to the same specs as the NCY performance clutch bell... Though I think the NCY bell is a tad heavier (material thickness that is) but it'll serve the purpose for now... Just thought I'd throw this out there for those who might want an inexpensive mod... David Sr.
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