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Post by hitshane on Jul 24, 2014 10:38:43 GMT -6
I got most replacement screws and O rings for my bike from Ace Hardware. $.70 each? Even got the Hex Heads No more stripped Phillips-head's...
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Post by hitshane on Jul 24, 2014 9:35:10 GMT -6
If the fuel truck is at the station don't get gas, it stirs up the crap in their tank. When I get gas I try to find a station with dedicated fuel nozzles for each grade of gas. When the station doesn't have those, I look for someone using premium fuel and wait for them to finish so I can use that line. When you pull up and get gas, you are getting some of whatever lower grade fuel the person before you used... Being as my scooter holds 1.4 gallons, even a small amount of regular, is a lot in my tank...
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 24, 2014 9:17:23 GMT -6
Hi,
I wanted to share some information with the site about Pirelli SL26 3.50-10 tires. There is tons of information about proper PSI on tires. Most people underinflate their tires and cause extra wear and tear. I have seen lots of posts about Pirelli tires wearing too fast. I recently had a pair installed on my 50cc scooter. I asked the Pirelli dealer what to run them at. He said 28 PSI for a soft ride and 35 PSI for best performance. I put them both at 34 PSI.
I emailed Pirelli tech to inquire about proper PSI. I told them I weigh 185Lbs., the bike weights 200Lbs., and that I run WOT on hot Florida streets. This is their reply email. I hope this clears up some people's opinions on Pirelli wear and proper inflation.
**Notice the Min 42 PSI**
***They do say 47 PSI on the sidewall***
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 17, 2014 13:50:10 GMT -6
Yes the engine was cooled down.
I think it was louder after I set them because they weren't popping open and shut at the same time anymore, because they weren't the same setting. They weren't tic/tic, tic/tic, tic/tic; they were -/tic -/tic -/tic. One was open/close longer, and the other popped open/shut faster... Then should I put them both at .004"? Because .003" for both I lost performance...
**I am thinking the quick open/close pop of loose valves, provide better compression and have more torque than the flowing open/close motion of the tight tolerances on the cam lobe. This is proven with not only Honda but on many engines with solid cam/over head valves and/or solid lifter Camshafts, that less gap = more HP, more gap = more Torque.
*** -Should I put the Exhaust Valve out to a Tight .004" setting..? And, leave the .003" Intake?
-Should I make them both a tight .004"
-Should I set both valves to .005" like they were SET when I bought the scooter new?
****Yes I am splitting hairs over a thousandths of an inch, but they sure do matter don't they
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 17, 2014 13:35:18 GMT -6
Hi,
Recently I opened up my valve cover to adjust my valves. They were set at .005" Inches, both -In and Out-. The scooter went very fast at this initial setting (45-48MPH+ flat road), for its first 1200 miles, but lacked acceleration .
I tried to tighten them at .003" in and .003" out, but it ended up being .0035" and .0045"+... It had better acceleration and the speed was there, but the exhaust valve was tapping very loud and the exhaust pipe was not loose.
So, today I went back in at about 9:30am and readjusted them to .003" In and .003" Out. The .003" feeler was tight and the 4 wouldn't fit either lash in its dreams. I let it warm up and took it for a ride switching in between racing hot and cruising. The acceleration feels exactly like it did before I touched the valves originally , but it only wants to go 37-40MPH unless I have a slight downhill grade in the road. I have since adjusted my carb mix screw and everything else is sound on the bike.
I want to find a good spot of that acceleration from MY* first setting and retain some of the top end from the Initial* Setting...
-Should I put the Exhaust Valve out to a Tight .004" setting..? And, leave the .003" Intake?
-Should I make them both a tight .004" -Should I set both valves to .005" like they were SET when I bought the scooter new?
*I think the exhaust valve tapping was louder on my initial setting, because the Intake was at a different pace and the two didn't drown themselves out as much...
**Any input would be awesome from some people who change their valve lash adjustments a lot on 50-60cc engines. Mine happens to be a 60cc 2013 TaoTao.
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Post by hitshane on Jul 14, 2014 16:32:03 GMT -6
You're the best!
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 14, 2014 13:41:47 GMT -6
I just did everything you did including a valve adjustment and it ended up being bad gas that I had just got from the station. Maybe the move put some condensation in the tank that didnt settle untill after you put fresh fuel in it and started it right away, then settled to the bottom over night. I have seen a lot of these posts lately. Maybe there is a poor fuel epidemic The first time I had this problem on my scoot it was a vacuum line...
scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/10414/50cc-idles-rev
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 14, 2014 13:18:48 GMT -6
Check the bolts holding the SWINGARM to the Front part of the FRAME they may be a little loose. Alleyoop I cant seem to find a picture of these bolts or any reference to servicing them through google or this forum. I think I found the right side one where it bolts to the engine, but not the left; nor can I see it without removing the body panels. Is there a post somewhere or a link that shows them plain as day? I even tried the scrappy dogs where you can buy the engine and rear wheel complete, but it is not a large enough or high res photo...
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 14, 2014 13:08:22 GMT -6
I just went through this with my TaoTao. After doing everything to the valves, fuel/vacuum lines, and carb; it ended up being bad gas (fresh from the station). Drain your tank completely and get new gas before you beat your head too much... scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/10414/50cc-idles-rev
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Post by hitshane on Jul 14, 2014 12:59:43 GMT -6
While working on my scooter, I noticed that when it is on the center stand the dual frame setup has some play. When rocking the bike left to right from the handle bars with the seat off, you can see the frame moves left to right, but the engine and rear wheel don't. It is not a lot of play but I can see it. If I am standing over the seat but not sitting on it and turn the bars quickly from left to right and back I can make half the bike bounce against the rest of it... It doesn't make a noise or anything, just feels like it rubber bands back and forth if that makes sense? I thought this was the shocks or tires offering give before, but since I saw it do it with the seat bucket off, I know this is play between the rear engine/wheel and where it meets with the front frame.
Is this normal? The bolts all seam tight. Is this just the design?
I have OCD so little things like this keep me up at night. Feel free to tell me everything is fine so I can sleep better!!!
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 14, 2014 12:47:10 GMT -6
When coming down from wot, just as or before the clutch is disengaging, I hear a slight ticky ticky from the engine not the CVT. The engine in general sounds more fluid with the new valve adjustments. The torque curve has a smoother curve instead of the mid range power band blast it use to have, but I think it is more responsive this way, and probably less stressful on the engine
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 14, 2014 12:19:37 GMT -6
I will keep that in mind! I did notice that your posts (and others) went from promoting a .004" gap to .003" in the last year. What made you do this and should the exhaust be looser than the intake? I just got a replacement valve cover and breather tub Pair gasket, so I will recheck the clearances while I'm in there. It has performed great though, so I will leave them where they are at, and check again in the future!!!
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 12, 2014 7:54:15 GMT -6
Adjust your valves both to .003 inchs Alleyoop This made a big difference on acceleration. The power curve is much smoother now. I just threw on a set of Pirelli's on top of it and this thing handles better than it ever did!
Thank You,
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 11, 2014 9:09:46 GMT -6
Would that be the "Dundee" inspection method or just a thorough visual? Roy
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Post by hitshane on Jul 10, 2014 16:48:22 GMT -6
So I put everything back together, again. I drained the gas tank and put in fresh fuel, again... Ran starter for 2 sets of 5 seconds each, then let it sit for a few minutes. Hit the starter again and BAM; it started right up and revved up with the throttle. Let it warm up and took it around the block. I just need to adjust the mix on the carb tomorrow with better weather. It seams to be lower on power and sounds quieter. Maybe I should increase the valve clearance some from the .003" it is at now? They were at .005"...
Thank you guys for all the help. I must have got bad gas last week. I'll remove that station from all scheduled stops. On the plus side, I now know how to adjust the valves and completely clean out the carb. I haven't done either of those things since my small engine class in high school, 20 years ago...
-Shane
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