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Post by hitshane on Jul 9, 2014 20:03:09 GMT -6
It is not extended out...
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Post by hitshane on Jul 9, 2014 19:55:02 GMT -6
Yes the spark plug boot is NOT how I normally keep it, I had swapped to the old plug throughout this ordeal. I ran the fuel lines downhill from the gas tank, to an oversized high flow fuel filter, to a fuel petcock, to the carb. The lines are as short as possible. I did the suction test with a flavor injector on the vacuum line and fuel flows out very fast. It has been setup this way for 600 miles and worked great. I drained the tank completely when I got home and will refill with fresh gas tomorrow.
I was able to cut flat head slits into the stripped screws and get the enricher out. I bought replacement hex screws for it. I have now replaced every screw on the carb lol. I will check the enricher tomorrow for proper function and plug the hole with my finger while the engine is running and see what happens for a bit. I pulled off the intake manifold and it looks brand new. There is still one vacuum line coming from the intake manifold that goes to the PAIR system, that I have not replaced yet. I will do that tomorrow. Is the canister it connects to serviceable?
Tomorrow I will replace everything and make it tidy. I'll take some more pics also. Thank you for all the help so far 
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 9, 2014 14:55:16 GMT -6
I stripped the screws on the enricher and ill have to go get a dremel I don't own. Will have to get replacement hex screws too at Ace. I will try to get them today, the wife should be home soon with the car. Here are some pics of the carb and bike. The hoses are all new except the PAIR hoses. I cant see a crack on them or the intake manifold. I also blasted the entire area with starter fluid and the RPM's didn't raise a bit...
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Post by hitshane on Jul 9, 2014 14:10:45 GMT -6
OK, when it stops raining I'll do that and edit it into here. It would always idle and even rev while the enricher was engaged though, before it warmed up... It also would run and idle from the warmed up position. Being Florida hot here I don't think it even needs the enricher, but in any case warm or cold it would start or rev. I don't see why it would stop idling from a cold start with the carb mix screw in the proper position. I do think it is a air/fuel issue though. The only hoses I have not replaced are the PAIR system...
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 9, 2014 13:01:50 GMT -6
OK,
so I had a window today of no rain and went to work. I aligned the timing mark and double checked the cams placement. The engine rolled into the sweet spot to work on the valves.
I checked them before I loosened up the nut and both in and out were .005". The shop I got it from said they adjusted the valves to get the best performance out of it when I bought it, so I'm guessing that's where they put it at. The ripped rubber gasket reinforced this conclusion.
I set both valves at .003" and tightened them up carefully. I rotated the engine a few times from the air fan and rechecked them. Perfect! I reinstalled the valve cover, being careful not to strip the bolts! So far so good...
I put the carb fuel mix screw where it should be and it wouldn't start. I turned out the screw until it was about to fall out and was able to get it to slow idle. Turning the throttle even a hair, causes it to bog out. It actually was idling better before I made the valves tighter. I might go out to .004" after I get it running, but I still have to do that first.
What is the next thing I should do? Should I order a carb? Can someone send me a link to a carb that is good and not Expensive as hell! I have the one with the black plastic diaphragm cover on it now.
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jul 8, 2014 12:13:53 GMT -6
Do I need a torque wrench to reinstall the valve cover bolts? Should I buy a new gasket first?
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Post by hitshane on Jul 8, 2014 11:36:20 GMT -6
Hi,
So I have a 2013 50cc TaoTao ATM50-A1. I have put 1200 miles on it since I bought it new. I use premium fuel and have followed the maintenance schedule. I have a new carb installed, vacuum lines, fuel lines, fuel petcock, fuel filter, and sparkplug. It has ran great since I got the new carb a few months ago.
While I was driving home last week it felt like it was losing power and slowed to about 20MPH, but made it home. I thought it was the rear tire as it has a leak and I have been looking up replacements for it.
I started my scooter yesterday to go to the store and it started just fine. I let it warm up till the RPM's dropped into a nice idle and went to give it gas. No power at all and it bogs down like its choking. If I let off the throttle quick enough it catches back into idle otherwise it dies. After doing this a few times it started not staying at idle and was bogging out no matter what.
I pulled the carb and took it apart. Every part inside of it looks brand new and shiny. I used compressed air and blew through every orifice and the jets. I can feel air coming through the other side of every thing I blew it through. The diaphragm looks nice and new and I can't see any holes in it. The needle was not stuck or the floats.
I reinstalled the carb today and while starting it I saw fuel come through the lines and into the carb. After a few tries it started right up, but idled bad. I opened up the gas cap thinking maybe it was vapor locked and it starts but still wont rev without choking out. I opened the air box and still the same thing. I blocked the air intake with a T shirt and it didn't get better. I felt the exhaust and the pressure feels nice and strong coming out at idle so it must not be blocked. I normally have the fuel mix screw between 2 and 2 1/2 turns out. I had to turn out the screw about 6 turns to get it to idle correctly. Still bogs out the same. I swapped out my expensive spark plug for a basic NGK it came with just for the hell of it and it didn't change anything.
Just touching the throttle bogs it instantly. Turning the fuel screw out makes the idle higher and turning it in kills it. It is not where I normally keep it though and it is turned out about 3 times more than normal operation to keep it idling nice and strong. If I turn it out anymore the screw is going to come out.
Can someone tell me where to diagnose next please. I don't see where it could be losing vacuum and it is getting fuel. The intake and exhaust aren't blocked. The carb isn't clogged. The enricher is still functioning. The engine sounds fine now at idle with the current carb screw position. The plug I pulled looked fine. It has proper oil and there are no fluid leaks or buildup anywhere. Could the PAIR system be clogged up? Could it be exhaust valve? Could it be the CDI? My next step is draining the fuel and replacing the CDI and coil. Should I buy a compression tester? Replace the carb first?
Can someone jump in and share some knowledge please
-Shane |
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Post by hitshane on Jun 20, 2014 10:29:14 GMT -6
The needle goes past the 80km/h (50mph) all the way to the left turn signal indicator. I am passing cars in the 45mph zone. I will see if I can make a mount, for a camera, and record the speedo and my relation of speed verse traffic. I'll take my Tom Tom with also, for speed verification. I bought this new from a large motorcycle dealership, so I don't actually know what the engine size is, as they sell several size BBK's installed. I originally wanted a red one, but they couldn't get the VIN number to work with the DMV in their computer, so they ended up selling me the blue one. Maybe I got more than I paid for? It hits 30 (same speed as traffic on a local road) in about 12 seconds. Watching several videos with 50cc enthusiasts, it took them around 17-18 seconds to do 0-30 run. I weight 200Lbs. I ordered a torque wrench. When it gets here I'll pull her apart and measure the piston!
Edit: I was able to do a couple runs though I was only able to get the needle just past the 80km/h mark. I used a GPS/Speedometer app on my Cell phone and my wife following me in her car with her Tom Tom on aswell. The wind was working against me, (Florida Weather) but I was able to hit 45MPH twice in a short distance. I will do a few more runs maybe tomorrow when its less windy.
Edit2: The scooter's stock Speedo was accurate until 30MPH, and after that anything faster was not. It was showing just over max reading, while the GPS said 45MPH.
-Shane |
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Post by hitshane on Jun 15, 2014 14:16:07 GMT -6
Hello,
So, my 60cc scooter has done 40-50MPH since I bought it new. I have upgraded the vacuum lines, fuel lines, fuel filter, carburetor, and modified the day running low beam headlight, to turn on with the high beam switch only. I have had valves adjusted and oil(s) changed twice since I got it and have 1200 Miles on it.
Over the last few weeks it stopped going 50~ and started maxing out at 30~. It has very fast acceleration and passes most cars from a stop until top speed, but the top speed was now 30mph!!! I have been messing with the carb, plug, hoses, gasket bolts, wiring; everything!
I was just about to order a torque wrench to check the valves when I went for a ride today. I felt the bike washing out in the corners and it hit me! I went to my local gas station with an automatic air pump, where you set the PSI and it fills it in stages. The back tire had 6psi!!! After topping it off and the front at 36psi, I took it for a 40 block cruise. Boy did I miss being able to pass cars in a 45MPH Zone!!! Wow, I live in Tampa Bay, Florida and we have had many Thunder Storms in the last two weeks. The last air pump I used was an old school one at another gas station and I bet it was reading wrong also... With a slight decline and the wind at my back, I ran almost 60MPH for 30 blocks and the speed daemons in their cars were following me to cut traffic...
Long story short always check the simplest answer first to any problem and always check your Air Pressure!!!
-Shane
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Post by hitshane on Jun 9, 2014 13:31:51 GMT -6
Nut size is directly related to engine size  -Shane |
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Post by hitshane on Jun 9, 2014 13:27:27 GMT -6
Haha, I pay at the pump, no looks required  -Shane |
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Post by hitshane on Jun 7, 2014 0:09:18 GMT -6
That way they only have to refund the price of the item and not the shipping if you don't like it |
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Post by hitshane on Jun 6, 2014 23:16:11 GMT -6
Nice brakes!
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Post by hitshane on May 29, 2014 8:27:36 GMT -6
I took my 50cc TaoTao from Saint Petersburg to Orlando and back (240miles) I also put a hundred miles a week on it to work and back. $4 a week -Shane |
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Post by hitshane on May 22, 2014 16:59:11 GMT -6
I know this is an old post, but I wanted to add something as I had the same issues. I wasn't driving my scoot long (far) enough when I used it to charge the battery. My new job being farther away fixed this. I have replaced all the gas lines, vacuum lines, carb, battery, and several other things and have it tuned nice. I have a TaoTao 50cc (60cc) ATM50-A1. It was misfiring under acceleration and I was having problems with my headlight sometimes being on and sometimes being off. I finally saw the problem while looking it over one day. The wire in the headlight bulb itself was loose. Sometimes it would have good connection sometimes it wouldn't. I actually saw the spark in the bulb, jumping the distance and arching to the posts inside of it. When it did this the engine misfired because it didn't have enough voltage to jump both the spark plug gap and the Light Bulb Gap!!! A new headlight bulb fixed this problem. But, I notice the engine has less power with the light running vs when it wouldn't be working before the bulb change. I am now going to clip the wire that powers the low beam and just turn on the high beam while driving at night. My scoot has a screw at the bottom that allows me to adjust the beam height so I adjusted it to not shine into the cars windows in front of me... Being as this is just a 35w lamp bulb the hi beam function of it is not bright enough to blind oncoming traffic or warrant a ticket/stop... I hope this helps someone, because the engine losing power erratically left me dumbfounded for several months...
-Shane
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