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Post by hobbles on Jan 3, 2015 16:47:20 GMT -6
Now we;re into something. My old carb dose not have all the hoses going every where. I need to look through the pictures of my old carb and see what I can eliminate. This must be a California carb.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 3, 2015 16:50:48 GMT -6
I put up a picture of what to eliiminate on the carb Vacuum connections.You just need to take that extra "T" going to the carb and its hoses you need the bottom "T" which will go to your acv valve on the carb and the other to your fuel pump. So now that part will be good. Alleyoop
ONE THING AT A TIME then we need to check the EGR CANISTER HOSES and straighten that out if wrong. Alleyoop
YOUR FUNNY HOBBS CALIFORNIA CARB, NO ITS THE IDIOTS THAT PUT THEM TOGETHER IS THE PROBLEM. IT COULD BE FROM TEN BUCK TWO A CHILD PUT IT TOGETHER(HAHA).
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Post by hobbles on Jan 3, 2015 16:52:29 GMT -6
I better shut it down for the night. It's getting dark out and hard to see. I don't want to ad more problems to it. I also think I found out how to adjust the automatic choke when I looked at my old carb. I'll get to that down the line a lil. First I want to clean up all the vac lines.
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Post by hobbles on Jan 3, 2015 16:53:51 GMT -6
I'll go look for your picture now.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 3, 2015 16:56:13 GMT -6
There is no way to adjust the ENRICHER(CHOKE) it is on or off is all. By Default when cold it feeds extra fuel when the motor starts IT THEN feeds voltage to the enricher and it heats up and it makes the valve and needle extend and shuts off the extra fuel NO IN BETWEEN UNLESS you convert to a manual choke like I did. Alleyoop
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Post by hobbles on Jan 3, 2015 16:56:41 GMT -6
Oh, that picture,,, That looks like my old carb set up. I'll change that out tomorrow.
Thanks again..
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Post by hobbles on Jan 3, 2015 16:59:05 GMT -6
On the choke, Mine runs way to fast on startup. I have to adjust the speed or the trike goes forward and I can hear the trans banging,, a lot. Then when it warms up, it stalls and won't stay running. I have to re adjust the idle speed. Something is not right with that.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 3, 2015 16:59:44 GMT -6
Oh, that picture,,, That looks like my old carb set up. I'll change that out tomorrow. Thanks again.. There is no way to adjust the ENRICHER(CHOKE) it is on or off is all. By Default when cold it feeds extra fuel when the motor starts IT THEN feeds voltage to the enricher and it heats up and it makes the valve and needle extend and shuts off the extra fuel NO IN BETWEEN UNLESS you convert to a manual choke like I did. Alleyoop Here this picture is of your current carb and setup: Take the whole line in yellow off and out including the "T". The other hose should be connected to the ACV VALVE and hooked up to the BOTTOM "T" Marked #3. T
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Post by hobbles on Jan 3, 2015 17:02:31 GMT -6
That's a good diagram. Heck,, even I can follow that.
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Post by hobbles on Jan 3, 2015 17:06:26 GMT -6
Are you sure there is no adjustment on the chock? When I loosen the 2 screws that hold it I can turn it like an auto matic choke that is on my 63 chevy.
Just asking,,
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 3, 2015 17:08:31 GMT -6
No that is just to take the whole thing off. Tighten it up otherwise you will have air leaks plus fuel leak. It is not a CHOKE as we car motor heads know about, this is an ENRICHER which works the OPPOSITE of what you would think. The ENRICHER has a VALVE and NEEDLE and when RETRACTED(COLD) it allows fuel to be sucked out and feed extra fuel for starting. ONCE the motor starts the Stator feeds it voltage and the ENRICHER starts to heat up and melts the wax in the piece and makes the VALVE AND NEEDLE EXTEND about 1/4 of an inch and it shuts off the extra fuel. And here is how your carb vacuum hoses should be connected this is MY CARB ON MY TRIKE. Here is what the ENRICHER LOOKS LIKE: ENRICHER RETRACTED(COLD) FEEDS extra fuel: ENRICHER EXTENDED (WARM) SHUTS off the extra fuel:
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Post by hobbles on Jan 4, 2015 8:22:13 GMT -6
UP DATE,, Mornin Boys. I re ran the vac hoses, it now looks like this. These are my spare parts now. Now, for the big question, I started it up when it was cold and turned down the idle so it won't try and pull forward like I did before, but,, this time when it got warm, it DIDN'T STALL! So, the question Issss, does this idle speed sound about right??? If it does, then I'm done with the carb. Cool, what's next to work on?
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Post by hobbles on Jan 4, 2015 9:00:06 GMT -6
AHHHHH shucksThe adjustment screw is 3 turns out.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 4, 2015 11:35:00 GMT -6
Ok, the carb connections are good now, BUT you still seem to have a problem with giving it throttle it is a little better it will now take a little bit of throttle but not much. Still not right, you still have a bog. So now look at the hose connected to the AIR FILTER follow it back and see where it is connected to. Also check the CANISTER and see if any other hoses are connected to it and where the go to. ALSO MAKE SURE there is a FOAM FILTER about 1/2 in thick and about 2 inchs round in the AIR FILTER. If not just get some porus foam and cut out a piece. Now don't laugh but if there is one in there it is held on with a wire tie(QUALITY AT IT'S BEST) . I know because all of the 150 trikes I have seen so far come with that CHEAP HARD PLASTIC AIR FILTER that will in time break into pieces(talking from experience her not blowing it out of my butt) Alleyoop This is what I have on since 2010:
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Post by hobbles on Jan 4, 2015 13:39:17 GMT -6
The vac line from the air filter goes to a Y. One end goes to the clutch housing and the other goes to this thing. No other lines are hooked to it. as for the foam filter that is being held in by a cotter key (and vacuum) I pulled it and cleaned that out with with gas till no more black was coming off it the day I got the trike. But, since you mentioned it, I thought I would pull it and check it out again. Then, as long as I had it out I got a scrubby dude from the Wife and added it to the unit. You can see through it just as good and the stock one. So now I have two to stop the dust till I get real AIR CLEANER.
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