The Matrix: Rebuilding By runningslow (Read 26,006 times)

[runningslow]

Oct 26, 2011 6:57:06 GMT -6 runningslow said:

An update on the checklist:

• Double check timing
  
• Install new battery
  
• Reinstall old exhaust (as a temporary fix)
  
• Try starting!!
  
• Install catch can
  
• Begin body work...
  
• Reinstall original airbox. Added to the list, so I could cross it off. I decided to go ahead with this, at least until I have the scooter running. I am going to need to order a new paper filter though.
  
  
• Dissect the short case motor that I have sitting around to satisfy my own curiousity. I had some trouble removing the clutch nut, even with my new Harbor Freight electric impact. So, I cut it off with my Dremel. I was looking to see what gears it had. I also checked to see what gears my old 161QMK motor had.
  
• Report back with my results, if I think anybody would care. As it turns out, both motors had 13/40 gears. I took apart my old QMK, assuming it would have the same gears as my newer QML. That being said, I think I'm going to order myself a set 15/38 gears for the QML after everything else has been squared away.
  
  
• Install new front shocks in my Ranger. This went fine and was much easier than I anticipated. However, the trip to the junkyard was not fruitful. For whatever reason, this particular junkyard decided that all the trucks in the yard must be sitting on the leaf springs, thus making it impossible to safely remove a leaf spring. So, I was unable to do anything for the "Ranger Lean."
  

Another update: SHE RUNS!!!

• Double check timing
  
• Install new battery
  
• Reinstall old exhaust (as a temporary fix)
  
• Try starting!! WOOT! Started first try.
  
• Install catch can Scratching this off, since I'm just going to use the stock airbox for the time being.
  
• Begin body work...
  

Ran a little rough at first, but then she hasn't been run in a few months. Slowly started to get better. I didn't try riding her at all, since the seat isn't back on, yet, but I let her idle for a good 10+ minutes. I'll go checking for leaks later.

I'm almost there.

I didn't check the timing, but I figured it wouldn't too hurt too much to try if it was just a tooth off. I want to double check that and check the valves again. I will be needing a new exhaust and then I need to clean up the body plastics and lay down some fresh paint.

[runningslow]

I'm going to resume this thread over in my Customs section build thread, Project: Neo scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=customscootsmodsetc&action=display&thread=3249

[runningslow]

Ok, could all humor me....

I got finally got sick of the Matrix taking up space in my garage, so I finally decided to buckle down and get her running. I checked the timing by sticking a piece of wire down the spark plug hole and finding TDC, then I realigned the cam sprocket and put it back together. I then gave the carb a quick cleaning.

She's now idling fine in my garage, but as soon as I give her any gas she chokes. Do I need to do a better carb cleaning? Should I play with air/fuel screw? Help!

Of course this is the gas that's been sitting in the tank for a few months. In the morning, I plan to drain it and put in some fresh gasoline, but I don't want to run out to a gas station this evening.

[sprocket]

Drain the fuel, flush the tank and lines...the gas is varnish by now...replace the fuel filter with a new one designed for gravity feed system... like riding mowers, generators... clean the petcock or fuel pump... then totally disassemble the carb and clean... running fine wires through all the jets and all the passages in the ventura.

The point is this the old gas coats all the passages with varnish.. it can't fully be removed with carb cleaner... it MUST be removed manually with a wire...

Then you should be fine...

Your odometer is likely in kilometers.. so you may want to check that on a measured mile... then convert for Fuelly...95% of Chinese scooters have kilometer odometers, no matter what the speedo is calibrated in...

[runningslow]

Jan 20, 2012 19:35:54 GMT -6 sprocket said:

Drain the fuel, flush the tank and lines...the gas is varnish by now...replace the fuel filter with a new one designed for gravity feed system... like riding mowers, generators... clean the petcock or fuel pump... then totally disassemble the carb and clean... running fine wires through all the jets and all the passages in the ventura.

The point is this the old gas coats all the passages with varnish.. it can't fully be removed with carb cleaner... it MUST be removed manually with a wire...

Then you should be fine...

Your odometer is likely in kilometers.. so you may want to check that on a measured mile... then convert for Fuelly...95% of Chinese scooters have kilometer odometers, no matter what the speedo is calibrated in...

Thanks Sprocket. I'll take care of the gas stuff in the morning. I've been around this forum long enough, you think I'd know the basic things like this. I did run a wire though them, but I'm sure I left crap behind.

When the factory gauges worked (I think I need to check the cable) the speedometer and odometer are actually digital and I have the option to switch back and forth between km and miles. Although, most of that recent mileage that was put into Fuelly was done via my bicycle speedometer/odometer. I never got phenomenal gas mileage, but remember this thing is a 170cc.

[runningslow]

Ok. Clean gas. New fuel filter. Cleaned the carb again.

Scooter will idle. As soon as its given any throttle, the bike dies. Thoughts?

I'm wondering if I didn't put the carb back together correctly. I can't find a diagram that matches mine. I have 4 screws on the top over the diaphragm (not 2 like all the diagrams I've found) and there's a little plastic tripod (kinda looks like the thing you'll find in the center of your pizza, only smaller) that goes with the needle.

EDIT: I'm also at the moment going to let it cool down and make sure the valves are set right. Again.

[sprocket]

Is the engine cold or hot like for 15 minutes when it dies? Check the diaphragm in top and be certain it isn't twisted. Usually there is a tab or cut-out on the rubber that must align with a tab or cutout in the carb body...

Sounds like a weird carb... for the $30... if you can't get it happening I would replace the carb...

Also make sure the slider with the needle can be easily raised and it comes back down...do this through the air intake with a pencil...also check your air filter and try running it with no filter attached..

[runningslow]

Jan 21, 2012 11:49:24 GMT -6 sprocket said:

Is the engine cold or hot like for 15 minutes when it dies? Check the diaphragm in top and be certain it isn't twisted. Usually there is a tab or cut-out on the rubber that must align with a tab or cutout in the carb body...

Sounds like a weird carb... for the $30... if you can't get it happening I would replace the carb...

Also make sure the slider with the needle can be easily raised and it comes back down...do this through the air intake with a pencil...also check your air filter and try running it with no filter attached..

Bike will idle, I presume, indefinitely. I was able to tell the point when the choke closed off, because it started to stumble. The engine cuts out the moment the throttle is twisted or if I turn the idle screw too much.

No tab on the diaphragm, but the slider is keyed that it only goes in one way. If (when) I take it apart again, I'll take some pictures.

I'll take the air filter out. I know its old and probably clogged. We'll see if that helps. Its on my list of things to replace anyway when I get payed at the end of the month.

I may replace the carb if it comes to that, but this carb has worked fine for nearly 12,000 miles and was working fine when I had the other problems.

EDIT: No Air Filter... no change. Going to let it cool for a few hours and check the valves later this evening.

[sprocket]

OK then it has air and I assume your spark is good? Then the problem is with the carb or fuel flow...or compression.

Do you have a fuel pump or petcock? At 12K miles both are on their way out likely...

Could be a faulty float, plugged fuel filter, wrong type of fuel filter, the fuel filter is backwards in the line... vacuum leaks around the intake elbow...bad/leaking vacuum line somewhere...that sort of thing...

[runningslow]

Jan 21, 2012 13:15:06 GMT -6 sprocket said:

OK then it has air and I assume your spark is good? Then the problem is with the carb or fuel flow...or compression.

Do you have a fuel pump or petcock? At 12K miles both are on their way out likely...

Could be a faulty float, plugged fuel filter, wrong type of fuel filter, the fuel filter is backwards in the line... vacuum leaks around the intake elbow...bad/leaking vacuum line somewhere...that sort of thing...

Strong white spark. May be compression... The next thing I'm checking are the valves.

Petcock. It worked fine when I sucked on the vacuum line.

Fuel filter was replaced this morning with B&S filter, oriented the same as the one it replaced.

I should probably check for leaks. Gas in a spray bottle, right? I'll probably just replace all the hoses when I get paid anyway.

Thanks again, Sprocket.

Sent from my MoPho using ProBoards

[sprocket]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO WATER in a spray bottle....

[runningslow]

Jan 21, 2012 18:17:28 GMT -6 sprocket said:

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO WATER in a spray bottle....

OK, must be time to check my meds....

Sent from my MoPho using the ProBoards App

[Alleyoop]

Sure sounds like not enough gas is being sucked in when you let more air in(twisting the throttle).
The carb you have should have either a FUEL RATIO screw or an AIR RATIO screw.

If the carb has a SCREW by the AIR FILTER SIDE the amount of fuel is controlled by the amount of AIR that is being let in, MORE AIR=LEANER(COUNTER CLOCKWISE), LESS AIR=RICHER
(CLOCKWISE).
If the carb has a SCREW by the INTAKE SIDE the amount of fuel is controlled by the amount of FUEL that is being let in CLOCKWISE=LEANER COUNTER CLOCKWISE=RICHER
Alleyoop

[tmec]

have you done a compression test? thats the first thing i would do. dont assume its good.

[jct842]

One of the best investments I have made is a compression tester. Once you know you have or don't have compression you can stop guessing and fix your problem. john