TRY TRY Again.. Still at a loss By justguy1 (Read 9,165 times)

[Alleyoop]

Sorry Justguy1, but the way you explained it sounded to much like you had the switch connected wrong, just want to help and make sure the switch was connected right. Thank god that is out of the way(HAHA).

If you got a 12V LIght tester YOU hook up the WIRE TO GROUND and then probe for VOLTAGE on whatever. NOT hook it up to the POSITVIE TERMINAL on the battery that will light up when you find a wire with NO JUICE like finding a ground.

So Switch the WIRE FROM THE TESTER and hook it up to ground to find LIVE WIRES that you want and do not want to have juice.
Alleyoop

[Bashan]

You can touch your negative probe on the frame, or directly to the negative terminal of the battery:

As Alley said we should check the ignition switch. The two main functions of the switch are to ground out the W/B kill wire and to connect the hot red wire from the battery to other wires. Here's the switch and it's pigtail.

First test the W/B killwire. Set your multi to continuity and test the killwire to the green switch wire by touching a probe to each wire:

You should get a continuity tone with the key off because it grounds the CDI to kill the spark.

Turn the key on and you lose the tone because the switch breaks the contact between the green ground and kill wire so the scooter can run:

So those procedures test the integrity of the of the switch to kill the spark and also the green ground switch wire:

Now, test the DC voltage on the red wire to ground. You should get a 12v+ DC reading because you're actually reading the battery voltage. The red will always be hot even with the key off.

Now test the black wire with the key on and you should get 12v+ DC which shows the switch is connecting the red to black and energizing the black:

Now test the blue/black with the key on and you should get 12v+ DC as the switch connects the hot red wire to the blue:

I'll post more tests tomorrow.

[Alleyoop]

So with the KEY OFF the BLUE/BLACK and the BLACK wire should NOT HAVE JUICE with the KEY OFF? is that correct RICH?

So if the BLUE/BLACK and the BLACK get juice with KEY OFF that would indicate the IGNITION is bad is that correct? I am also learning here but If those two wires were getting juice with the key off I would replace the ignition, because there shouldn't be anything live going through the system with the KEY OFF.
Alleyoop

[justguy1]

Alley my friend there is no reason for you to apologize.. You have been a blessing. If not for you guys I would be up a creek without a paddle.. Im thankful for all of you guys here and elsewhere that are willing to help.. You all don't know me, yet your willing to take the time out of your busy lives to help me and that's friggin awesome..



Ok so here is the crazy thing tonight... So I take apart the key ignition switch.. Meaning if I turn the key on NOTHING... well not so fast.. So I have it connected I turn the key on and well you know nothing works.. So I take the key out like normal everything stays on... then I disconnect the switch plug... And ITS STILL ON... the head lights, the odometer. I hit the blinkers no blinkers but the odometer dims, hit the horn the speedodometer goes up... Now here is the kicker.... I hit the start button.... EVERYTHING SHUTS OFF.. didn't have to turn the power off.. And funny thing was when the key on .... if I press the start button.. everything lights up.. I didnt try the horn and blinkers, but the dash lights... So im more friggin lost now then I was before... And if you guys can shed light on the jumper thing.. the one I bought I don't think is gonna work it has alligator clips on the end and are too big to fit in the holes.. So that is where I stand going to be working on this all weekend..


Read more: itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?action=display&board=250u&thread=2870&page=3#ixzz2XTb2M0FV

[Alleyoop]

WOW!! You say you unplug the wires connected to the KEY IGNITION and things are ON??
Does the scoot have a REMOTE justguy? Ok I read the respond on the RIDE and your scoot has NO ALARM OR REMOTE. BUT if you unplugged it from the KEY SWITCH and still have things on
HOLY MACARONI. It almost seems something is PLUGGED in 180 degrees of in a MALE AND FEMALE plug.

I am also lost Justguy, something got fried, did you by chance put jumpers on the BATTERY and the SWITCH was set as disconnected from ground. If you did that and the battery at that time was not grounded I do not know what would happen. I know my way around the electrics and can test stuff but for sure not an electrical guru.
Alleyoop

[justguy1]

I have never jumped the battery with the disconnect being off. Only thing I did was added the disconnect switch.

I just want everyone to know it was my idea to go ahead and do the disconnect switch not anyone elses. I took the risk by not researching it more. I thought it was a great idea of what the benefits are..

That being said as I said on Ride. Im not here to chose sides I just want my scooter fixed I don't care who helps me. I will be grateful to those that do... I just want to get back on the ride...

[vansmack2]

justguy1 if you disconnected the plug from the switch so that the switch was no longer connected, and your lights were still on, then you must have a short between your hot wire (positive) and the wires in your light circuit.

If possible carefully inspect your wiring from the positive terminal of the battery and the lighting, even if you have to take it out of the insulation around a bundle of wires. You can buy replacement conduit/insulation once the problem is resolved. You must have a bare spot in the wiring somewhere, and/or a pinched connection where a hot wire is touching the lighting wires.

[bobf]

Eliminate any errors by putting it back the way it was before inserting the key switch. If everything is OK it would be the additions. If everything is still a mess it is somewhere else.

This move may eliminate the rest of the scoot from the problem list.
.

[dragonsparks]

I got mine

Dave

PS I think that there is some shorted & open wire's. But after 4 pages on 2 fourms & still haven't got the ignition switch tested. Wow



Read more: itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?board=250u&action=display&thread=2870&page=4#ixzz2XWUblLC7

[dragonsparks]

By the way Nice tutorial Rich

Dave

[Bashan]

Jun 27, 2013 20:25:16 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

So with the KEY OFF the BLUE/BLACK and the BLACK wire should NOT HAVE JUICE with the KEY OFF? is that correct RICH?

That's correct Alley, here is the black wire with the key on:

And here it is with the key off:

Blue/black wire with key on:

Blue/black with the key off:

That's 1.11v DC on the meter, not enough to consider significant.

Jun 27, 2013 20:25:16 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

So if the BLUE/BLACK and the BLACK get juice with KEY OFF that would indicate the IGNITION is bad is that correct?

Yes, that is correct. Also if the kill didn't ground or remained grounded after the key is on, that would be a problem.

Jun 28, 2013 8:59:00 GMT -6 dragonsparks said:

:)After 4 pages on 2 fourms & still haven't got the ignition switch tested. Wow

Now I really agree with that! Justguy1, I'm trying to help you out here. If you're not going to run the tests I post, then I can't help you.

[justguy1]

My test meter does not look like that or have the continuity

[Alleyoop]

Justguy,
Start looking for an IGNITION SWITCH it all points to it if it has power key off and key on.

QUESTION? Did you mess with anything on the SOLENOID the one with the 20A fuse?

If during your install of the CUT OFF SWITCH you caused an SPARK that could have burned some wires and now they are touching and or welded together and causing this crazy stuff.

IF you put everything back and disconnected the CUT OFF that you installed?

AND:

If you unhook the WIRES GOING TO YOUR IGNTION KEY on the scoot to turn it off and on and it still does the same thing THEN I would suspect burned wires welded together in your harness.

Alleyoop

[justguy1]

I didn't mess with the solenoid.. and as you can see in the picture of my scooter.. ( that was when I was doing the disconnect switch) the positive was OFF THE BATTERY.. I disconnected everything .. made sure that nothing got touched or fried...

When you say cluster.. do you mean all those wires that are connected to the switch plug?? that is a LOT of wires....

Im confused when you say ignition switch are you referring to the ignition where I put my key in to turn the scooter on?? or the plug that goes to the cluster of wires? Because if its the ignition.. why is it doing the same thing when I have it unplugged as well??

[Alleyoop]

I did not think you messed with the SOLENOID but JR thinks so, just wanted to clarify that.
So LETS FORGET ABOUT THE CUT OFF SWITCH YOU INSTALLED that is connected correctly and if you disconnected it and got it back to original that is also ok.


What I am saying is this, WIRES CONNECT TO THE IGNITION KEY , IF YOU UNHOOK those from the IGNITION KEY do you still have power to things THAT SHOULD NOT HAVE POWER.

If that is the CASE then your IGNITION MAY BE GOOD and all this is caused by wires melted togther. And you will have to unwrap them and FIND where they are melted.

IF SO then some wires are burnt and welded together acting as if the IGNITION KEY was ON passing juice to wire that only get juice when the KEY IS ON to start the scoot . And of course depending which wire or wires are making contact different things would work and some not and some goofy.
Alleyoop