When to change oil types By cyborg (Read 3,719 times)

[rapidjim]

Mar 11, 2014 8:01:13 GMT -6 kz1000st said:

Oh, yeah. I should have looked. I don't know I said Richland. I knew it was "Something-Land".

Oh , and Luke. If we all block you all you'll be doing is yelling in the dark but no one will hear you. Clean up your act.

Yeppers Richland Ashland very close Of course there is NO NOTHING LAND aka Luke

[Deleted]

Mar 11, 2014 8:01:13 GMT -6 kz1000st said:

Oh , and Luke. If we all block you all you'll be doing is yelling in the dark but no one will hear you. Clean up your act.

hmm that don't sound like a bad idea. whats everybody else say?

[cyborg]

i'm still waiting for the certifications,testing records,designs and revisions,and the book signing are you kidding? this is going to be great!!!

[cyborg]

Oh and all the patents that go with it all

[rockinez]

No one mentioned it does not make a difference at all.

Unless you are building a racing engine specialty "break in oil" is not necessary.

Synthetic is not slicker than rock oil, it is engineered to not break down as fast. It doesn't lubricate better, just lasts longer. Important when you consider rock oil looses half is viscosity pretty darn quick (2000 miles or so) Synthetic keeps its lubricating properties at higher temps for months longer.

Break an engine in with any quality oil. You will be dumping your first oil in 100 to 300 miles anyway. The second oil change should be in the next 300 miles or so. These engines shed a lot of metal until they are broken in. After that run the oil that you will maintain in the scoot.

Rock oil does not help break in an engine better or faster. It is cheaper to dump rock oil after the first two oil changes, and you will not run the first two changes long enough to matter.

[alansd]

meanwhile back to oil-- I changed my oil ( first time) yesterday and the gear lube. Used 10-40 Valvoline Motorcycle oil and Valvoline Gear oil . Was so easy I was surprised. I bought it with 1400 miles on it it now has 2000. The oil screen was perfectly clean but I spray cleaned it anyway.

Been running some SeaFoam in the gas every once in awhile and the little scoot runs great.

[kz1000st]

I stick to Mobil 1 in the Fashion only because the dealer who originally sold it said Amsoil. I'm not rich enough for that but I can afford Mobil 1. The rest of the fleet gets whatever 10W-40 is on sale.

[rockinez]

There are some real misconceptions on this post. Including the original question.
The amazing thing is the number of posts that are riding this wave of incorrect information.

All the oil companies offer free information on lubricants online.
It is free, take advantage of it.

Synthetic is not slicker - it last longer, and takes more heat before breaking down. That's it.
No slippery magic at all.

If you change standard oil on a regular basis, your engine will wear the same.

They cover this the first week in a class on motorcycle, or auto mechanics.

[Alleyoop]

In very hot weather you should use heavier oil like 20w50 and naturally in very cold weather lighter oil. But in moderate temps 10w40 is good for all year round.
Alleyoop

[twowheeler]

Synthetic is not slicker - it last longer, and takes more heat before breaking down. That's it.
No slippery magic at all.

Read more: scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/9503/when-change-oil-types?page=3#ixzz2vv2N8PBF


Wow. A little more to it than that !

[rapidjim]

This video sums it up very well even if he talks about cars. Pay attention to where he talks about noise and leaks in older engines. Also where he talks about certification methods.



4 strokes

One of the main advantages of synthetic oils is that they last longer, which in my opinion, does not out weigh the
cost difference when using in a scooter or small motor. You are not going to be riding your scooter for 6,000 miles without changing your oil, at least I hope not. One other point that is not made very often, is storage in the winter time or riding in extremely dusty enviroments. For those of us that have winter periods of not riding, have a special issue, condensation. Water is not a good thing when mixed with any oil. Ask any small engine mechanic what is the first thing they do to a small motor in the spring, "Change the oil". In dusty enviroments, you get dirt
contamination. Whether you are using conventional oil or synthectic, one of the most cost effective and beneficial things you can do as far as maintenance is to change your oil. I advise my customers to change their oil at least every 800 miles or every spring after storage.

2 Strokes

2 strokes are a horse of a different color. Mixing the oil with the gas and burning it brings up other issues. In the case of 2 strokes, IMHO synthetic oil is a better choice. Now I don't deal much with 2 strokes on a business level, but do own a lawn mower, weed whip and post hole digger that are 2 stroke and have quite a few customers that own 2 stroke snowmobiles and boats. My local small engine dealer (lawn mowers, chain saws ect.)talked me into trying it. After trying Amsoil in my 2 stroke equipment, I have found that they do not smoke like they did with conventional oil, don't foul the plug as often and SEEMS to start better. I have also been able to decrease the oil mix to 50 to 1. Amsoil brags you can go to 100 to 1, however I am not that brave.

IMHO the bottom line as far as 4 stroke scooters are concerned, I think conventional oil is a better choice.

[clonedrone]

Mar 13, 2014 0:51:06 GMT -6 rockinez said:

No one mentioned it does not make a difference at all.

Unless you are building a racing engine specialty "break in oil" is not necessary.

Synthetic is not slicker than rock oil, it is engineered to not break down as fast. It doesn't lubricate better, just lasts longer. Important when you consider rock oil looses half is viscosity pretty darn quick (2000 miles or so) Synthetic keeps its lubricating properties at higher temps for months longer.

Break an engine in with any quality oil. You will be dumping your first oil in 100 to 300 miles anyway. The second oil change should be in the next 300 miles or so. These engines shed a lot of metal until they are broken in. After that run the oil that you will maintain in the scoot.

Rock oil does not help break in an engine better or faster. It is cheaper to dump rock oil after the first two oil changes, and you will not run the first two changes long enough to matter.

Rock
Your flat out wrong on most you said!
No a break in oil is not necessary But it is a very good idea to use a break in oil with its High Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulphur content. The majority of theses items have been removed from Dino oil ever since the EPA mandated a Catalytic converter last 100,000 Miles.
Try putting the late model Dino crap in a old Muscle car with a flat tappet cam, See Ya Cam lobes!
Synthetic not slicker? were you come up with this? Old news proven.
Ya think all the Cup, IRL, Nationwide, Truck, F-1 use this because it last longer? they get most for free and could not care how long it lasts, It is its superior performance, It is Slicker thus making more HP period. The Dyno don't lie.
A good quality Synthetic can easily go 20,000 in a passenger car here's how. Go 5,000 mile change the filter and add a quart of oil, you can even go 7,500 miles and do the same change the filter and add a quart of oil, Bing, Done. and ya save some cash too.
Synthetics in the hot running GY-6 is a very good idea.
Oil does Three things, It is a sealant a Lubricant and a Coolant period.
I sell Lots of oil to the top engine builders in this country and converse on there testing and development.

[cyborg]

i always thought it was "slipperier" than dino oil because when i started to use it i found the transmissions in the bikes shifted so much faster and with less effort,,,when i used my infrared heat gun on the same bike back to back runs i saw a 70-75 degree drop in temps,,,but it was oil that needed to be changed,,and lastly i thought the engines were slightly more powerful,,,,not crazy but i could tell the difference in the ol butt dyno

[rockinez]

To the few that possibly didn't understand my attempt to communicate that one does not need to change from regular oil if you do not want to in a GY6. Millions run all over the world on 30w regular oil.

I just wanted to keep it simple. The question was when to change oil types..... That was the question. That is what the post is about.

What is wrong with the basic statements I made?
Which of these statements are incorrect?

1. Synthetic is not slicker than regular oil.
2. Synthetic does not break down as fast, and withstands higher temps.
3. It is cheaper to change regular oil after a few hundred miles than synthetic.
4. Regular oil works fine as long as you change it often.

5. You really never have to change from regular oil if you don't want to.

I could add a note, that the later in the day you post, the more likely you are to have someone argue with you using the same information you just gave them. It could be after "Miller Time" things get confusing.

I am not out to cause issues, I just want to cut through all the marketing and misinformation and keep to the solid facts.

[cyborg]

i think "regular oil" is ok if you change it regularly at the prescribed intervals,,,,,,,i prefer synthetic myself,,,i live in southern california,,and it gets god awful hot here and i want something that handles heat better and in my shifter bikes there is a marked improvement in the shifting smoother,, up and down,,stacking shifts is real slick,,,i notice a difference and back to back test runs same day a 75* lower temp with the synth,,,i'm a believer in synthetic,,,and with the longer intervals between changes it's almost the same money,,,it's more but it's close