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Post by czmdiver on Oct 24, 2015 20:04:25 GMT -6
I pointed out the Bad, No good but did not show the Better or way it should be. My bad. Here is a Skirt profile That will work Better in Any and Especially Any Stroker Combo. The first Pistons I showed you were what's called a Full Rounded Skirt, is ok This is a Slipper Style Skirt, The Skirts are Only on the Thrust faces of the piston. Sides Scalloped   Now this is supposed to be the Top of the Line Taiwanese all the snit Forging. Right? They Left out the Pin Oilers. Nice, No Instructions, No Warranty they Don't Even Cover there Workmanship. |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 24, 2015 19:25:01 GMT -6
I'll touch on something here. There cylinder is taller too accommodate the Stroke, so somebody attempted math anyhow. I could Not see enough of the Piston supplied but have suspicions. They have done the Piston Mod for you. I would want to See it. At +6mm stroke with the Stock Rod length the Rod Stroke Ratio gets Worse with every increment. Harsh Rod Angle. The Piston Needs its Skirt to Keep it Stable and the More Square in the bore (stable) the piston is kept Throughout the Stroke The Better the Ring seal. These Suppliers, Private Labelers, MFg's are Cutting off the Piston Skirt with a Cut off Saw With No Measurements. Unreal. We have a Harsh Rod angle and they Cut off the Skirt. Here is supposed be name brand Taiwanese quality snit NCY on the Left. the Chopped the Skirt off regardless if its in a stroker or not. JUNK  Her are two other Skirt shapes with some marking to point out difference.  The only thing that name brand quality NCY piston is good for   |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 23, 2015 14:13:34 GMT -6
Suck's get well soon
Two wheels were risky enough before cell phones
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 21, 2015 19:22:50 GMT -6
Alright I'll give this up. Here is a Example of Casting Porosity, Zoom in the Intake port and you can see what looks like little pits. Those are gases trapped and sometimes you can pick a grain of sand out. This is Common in a casting, Ya don't even mess with cleaning up those little pits.  Not scared someone will copy, can't figure out my roof an floor angles or my volumes. so have a seat with a grinder and six pac and grind away  Now this is a Billet Head, Different deal, i'm not going explain billet look t up. Nice Stainless "o" rings to seal the Copper gasket. I know what to do in my tune by the color of the chamber, left to right #2 lights went out. Not going to read plugs in a Alky/Nitro motor 
Hers another Billet Head, OUCH!!could not shut it down fast enough as a whole bunch valve train worked down the whole bank. 
The Next Level is Forged from Billet, do clutch baskets that way. Ducati owners will kill for a Forged from Billet Basket. |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 21, 2015 19:11:02 GMT -6
It would be interesting to hear what alloy they actually use for the chinese engines especially in the heads. There must be hundreds of documented alloys in the aluminum familys. Edit: pure aluminum is very soft and might explain the frequent valve adjustments. Silicon content . all go thru a harness process. Pure Raw Alum in that form is Completely Unusable as a Cylinder casting, soft as butter, Instantaneous fail. Ive had several either Bake or Over Heat the heat treat out and its all over. |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 21, 2015 8:37:32 GMT -6
WOW is all I can say, all of this over valve setting techniques. So here is my two and 1/2 cents worth. I work on these machines almost every day of the week, scooters in the summer and ATVs in the winter. Been doing it here for over 22 years, been a mechanic for over 45 years. If you have a mechanical cam system, at some point you have to adjust the valves. Every owners manual or shop manual I have ever seen requires a valve adjustment check as routine maintenance, I don't care what material the engine is made of, metal parts wear over time and use. Of course, just like every thing else, mileage between adjustment varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. After a lot of trial and error, I constantly use .004 inch on all 150s and 50s and recommend the clearances be checked during PDI ( I have seen brand new motors with almost zero clearance and as wide as .012 inch) , then again at about 400 miles, then very 800 to 1000. Every machine I sell off the lot is checked and then a freebee at 400 miles, some are still right on and others are off. Take my information for what it is worth to you Well this is well said and written, correct. But Not over technique but the misinformation that Excessive Air is Injected into Cylinder Head Casting's and that somehow(we haven't been told the why because the misinformer Doesn't Know) Causes Aluminum Alloy's to have Excessive Thermal Expansion and again somehow this will Lower my manufacturing cost. Hey Hot Hod Tip. My Head is Full of Air so its Lighter and I will go Faster. Ya right and I got a k&N air filter for ya too. |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 20, 2015 17:46:50 GMT -6
Just to verify .010 and .020 is tighter than your butt. The 0 in front of the number in mm makes it a smaller gap NOW if you meant .10 and .20 then I would buy it but not .010 and .020. As you can see .076 is already .003 in inchs  Exactly why I posted this pic  |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 20, 2015 15:18:01 GMT -6
Okay guys. Like I said in the post, I don't have a whole lot of experience on small engine stuff so listening to the techs that work on these all day long. Not to say they are correct but figured I'd follow the experience. The way it was explained to me was that on these BBK's, the aluminum has a lot of air injected into the mold, tis why they are so cheap. Yes, there are better kits then others on the market but I use what they use since they tell me they tried them all. I was also told that if you don't hear the valves at all, it's too tight. Again, I'm only going on what I've been told and would rather follow experience of a shop that does two or three mods a week. This is the reason I joined the forum, to get input from all possible sources so, the criticism is well tak |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 20, 2015 15:16:50 GMT -6
Okay guys. Like I said in the post, I don't have a whole lot of experience on small engine stuff so listening to the techs that work on these all day long. Not to say they are correct but figured I'd follow the experience. The way it was explained to me was that on these BBK's, the aluminum has a lot of air injected into the mold, tis why they are so cheap. Yes, there are better kits then others on the market but I use what they use since they tell me they tried them all. I was also told that if you don't hear the valves at all, it's too tight. Again, I'm only going on what I've been told and would rather follow experience of a shop that does two or three mods a week. This is the reason I joined the forum, to get input from all possible sources so, the criticism is well taken. Here is how a Inch/Metric will read. Bro. I'm not all caught up and star struck with what I do, Its just a Job at the end of the day. Not to belittle Technicians here as for Me You Are Communicating with a American MFG. Of High End Forgings/ Casting's Big Block Kits (anyone remember the KZ and GS +1,400cc Blown,Nitrous,High Comp Block Kits?) Billet Ice Cube Big Bore Cylinders, Forged Cube Big Blocks. as so much of this was private labeled most don't know how really made it. I'm well versed on POROSITY in Aluminum Castings and Sand Casting manufacturing. The Only issue I encounter with Cast Porosity is a Occasional Aluminum Cylinder with a plated bore, Rarely I find a what looks like Pitting, very small, No Effect on the engine just looks less than Prefect. A Few Sled's and Dirt bikes in the 70's had Carbs with Cast Porosity Issues, Nothing to do with Thermal Expansion. Aluminum is Superior in Heat Dissipation and Thermal Expansion. Thats Why its Sucks to Cook with. Her is almost perfect Example of a Cold Seize, Iron Lined Bore, Alum Alloy Piston, I'm not scared to show I Blow'd stuff up. I was incorrect in thinking my Break In was good. The Iron Expanded Many Time's the Rate of the Aluminum and the Iron Expanded Into the Piston, Not The Revers as some Feel   Application is Famous Yam, RD, There is No Whole Bunch of Air Blasted in and somehow that would Lower My Mfg Cost. I'm More than Familiar with the EPA Logistics in mfg these products, Virtually Non Existent in China. Copied Junk, No Warranty,No Guarantee/No Instructions, Slave Labor. Sad there seems be More Misinformation around these days with the web than ever. In the end her I can easily check my valves at .004 Ambient temp, Ride it Bringinng it up to operating Temp and re-check that valve, No Way it closed to 000 and is Bleeding Compression, I leave the front cover Off on my scoot just to I can easily check this, Even under a At Temperature WOT will Not close to Bleeding Compression, It Does Not Tick Either, |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 20, 2015 14:48:52 GMT -6
Experience is worth the effort. Try their way for a few days, then try what everyone here says a few days. Then you can make your own decision based on your experience. I know a mechanic who refuses to purchase feeler gauges, instead he uses a matchbook cover. He has learned from experience what works best for him. Don't be afraid to experiment! I set Allot of Points with a matchbook cover on bikes back in the day, pret much a .020 Maybe a shmancy match book at .018 got me out of the woods and home. |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 19, 2015 15:47:12 GMT -6
I've been getting different information on valve settings and finding the .003 and .004 are not quite enough on these engines. The aluminum heats up and expands sometimes causing valves to be partially open resulting in lost compression as the engine heats up. I've found through trial and error that .006 to .010 are a more reliable setting and allows for expansion. These are with the BBK on three bikes now. Not a ton of experience here so this is only my findings so far. We plan on building several more as the days pass, sort of a hobby thing. Constantly tuning and comparing and asking around this is where we are at. One of the 50's we've taken apart had around a .020 setting and it ran fine? I don't want to confuse, just telling other's what we found. This is complete Bunk. The Head is Cast Aluminum with a % of Silicon for hardness and Control Thermal Expansion. expansion is minimal. The Rocker Assy and Rockers are a Cast/Iron/Steel Alloy., This Can and Does Expand Much more. This is Factored in to the .004 Proper Clearance. The Best Cooking is Iron for its Heat Retention Properties. Aluminum is the Worst for cooking, It Rapidly Dissipates Heat. .004 is Plenty, the Only thing your doing with .010 is Giving Up .006 in Cam Lift? why would i want to give up any cam numbers? .020 on a Fiddy? now your giving up .017 in Cam numbers. foolish. just because it ran doesn't mean a darn thing. I have a whole bunch of different material's, Iron Bores (barbaric), Plated Bores, Castings, Forgings,   Iron bore/ Plated Bore. Raw Forging to First hit Slug I'm well versed in all the thermal expansion properties of the Cylinder Head/Cyl/Piston/Rod/Crank/pin/ring/valves/valve seats/valve guides/keepers/retainers/valve springs Material's   |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 19, 2015 4:05:30 GMT -6
30mm pumper on a 150 Stock internal Scoot? No.
you will be Over-Carb'd as mentioned before.
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 17, 2015 9:27:32 GMT -6
My 1988 Yamaha Riva 125cc 4-stroke started burning oil. I am losing about half a quart every 1,000 miles. Any way I can fix this? 1988 got some mile on her. Your going to have to take it apart. You will have to have the Bore and Piston Measured correctly to even Consider Rings. How many miles on her?    |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 15, 2015 8:32:19 GMT -6
3,800 rpm? for real? something wrong there.
There is No Limiter on a 150.
What mfg on the 60mm High Comp kit?
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 12, 2015 12:32:08 GMT -6
Well I got the matching 30mm intake but trying to figure out a way to increase the port on the scooter it self and with these engine setups it's a little odd, I'll be posting up pics later and also been looking at the pumper carbs and flat side carbs in place of the standard 30mm I got, I've got all winter to get it tuned it just right and I order the main jet assortments to figure out best overall performance along with a/f ratio gauge drilled into what ever aftermarket exhaust I pick out, problem being for me I cant find 1 that seems to work for what I'm wanting to do, kinda leaning toward scrappy dogs bintelli havoc exhaust, might as well go all out and make this a all winter project. There really is Only One way. I know ya got a dermal. so The head most be removed and dissembled completely, make a template from a gasket and then mark the ares to be removed with machines dye. Ya can't do it attached, fairly soft aluminum chips aren as big a concern as whatever Abrasive is used on the particular Dremel. you can stick a rag in the port and all that but your still going to put trash thru the motor. Your just pouring sand in the motor. Im unsure of the Head pipe Diameter of the pipe your looking at, it appears OE small. and $164. ouch. Depends on what your looking for out of a ex.   Fake High Perf pipe in middle, upwards of $199.  A Can inside another Can. so heavy hard to hold up and get a good pic.  I got $89. in this fart system + the header wrap. |
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