Clinician
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Post by kagetenshi on Oct 16, 2015 15:10:09 GMT -6
You could take the stock exhaust and drill a few holes through the muffler close to the pipe end. It would make for a more free flowing exhaust as well as add a bit of grunt to the sound.
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Clinician
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Post by kagetenshi on Oct 6, 2015 18:51:40 GMT -6
Float level, maybe?
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Clinician
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Post by kagetenshi on Oct 6, 2015 17:41:34 GMT -6
I would recommend running some sea foam through it. About an ounce per gallon of gas. Should run rough for a bit then smooth out if it's bogging from engine deposits.
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Post by kagetenshi on Oct 6, 2015 15:51:50 GMT -6
Just remember, the cheaper the scoot, the more potential part replacing there can be.
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Clinician
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Post by kagetenshi on Oct 6, 2015 15:50:38 GMT -6
Well, I bought a 2012 taotao VIP 49cc for about $700 shipped. It was Ca certified on emissions equipment. Which basically means it has a paar system. It has performed rather well. I let it sit for 2 years on my patio and just decided to replace the Carb and starter as the original ones we're starting to wear out. Other than that it's had no issues whatsoever.
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Clinician
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Post by kagetenshi on Sept 30, 2015 15:54:31 GMT -6
Very well said. Another "freebie upgrade" that I noticed a few others do, and have done myself, was to drill a few holes through the underside of the muffler close to the pipe to allow for a more free flow. It increased my top end by about 3mph GPS verified. And it didn't decrease the low end grunt I needed to get into the local 40 MPH traffic.
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Post by kagetenshi on Sept 30, 2015 13:33:15 GMT -6
Well, on another note I have a taotao VIP 49cc. I removed the paar system and noticed a slight but albeit noticeable gain in power.
As for the springs and rollers, the lighter the weight the faster your take-off should be, but at the cost of top speed. The opposite is true for increased weight. Heavier weights, more top end but at the cost of low end power. The angle of the torque driver can also affect power.
Just my 2 cents.
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Post by kagetenshi on Sept 28, 2015 16:03:06 GMT -6
Take your time and be gentle with the screws. They tend to strip easily from my experiences. And a basic Carb cleaner would do the trick. Just make sure that you don't damage the float or it's clip.
And remember, YouTube is your friend if you have doubts about what you are trying to do.
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Post by kagetenshi on Sept 28, 2015 15:21:42 GMT -6
If that doesn't do the trick you could try making sure the jets aren't clogged.
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Post by kagetenshi on Sept 27, 2015 19:54:18 GMT -6
As far as I van tell there is no other difference than an additional hole to be plugged. Either way, I had so many troubles with the diaphragms in them tearing that I just switched to a manual cut off valve and havent had a single problem since.
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Post by kagetenshi on Sept 27, 2015 19:50:57 GMT -6
Is the petcock in question attached directly to the gas tank? Or is it mounted via the frame/elsewhere?
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Tao Tao CY50A
by: kagetenshi - Sept 27, 2015 8:26:36 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by kagetenshi on Sept 27, 2015 8:26:36 GMT -6
Check the idle mixture. Its the small screw that's usually on the side of the Carb opposite the idle speed screw towards the bottom.it should be roughly 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns from all the way in. I have the same model scoot and that seems to work like a charm most of the time.
The idle mixture screw controls the first 1/4 throttle. The needle on the inside of the Carb controls the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. And the main jet controls the rest. Or so I've been told.
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Post by kagetenshi on Aug 7, 2015 17:14:38 GMT -6
Could be something wrong with the float in the Carb...
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Post by kagetenshi on Aug 7, 2015 9:35:21 GMT -6
I am just guessing here, but the temp affecting performance that much is probably due to a scooter's small engine size. Every little thing affects these smaller engines in a major way.
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Post by kagetenshi on Aug 4, 2015 20:53:51 GMT -6
Could be a gummed up starter since you've had issues starting it. When my Bendix started going bad, my starter soon followed.
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