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RC?
by: jaxrhapsody - Apr 29, 2016 17:54:43 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by jaxrhapsody on Apr 29, 2016 17:54:43 GMT -6
I wanted to make one with a weedeater motor, or lawnmower motor. I've seen them with small v8s.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Apr 29, 2016 15:09:01 GMT -6
Freaky lights
Currently my headlights went to flinkering on/off(i think missing screws in the case are the issue, or one of), to switching to hibeam and back, to permanate hibeams, which turning on hibeams turn them off, to none at all. Over the course of two weeks. the hazards only run the left blinkers unless I hold the button down, otherwise; I gotta use the right blinker with it.
Relay Mod
I want to run a set of relays to take the load of the switch, and hook up an actual on/off switch, so I can keep the lights off in the daytime.
I downloaded the wiring diagram for the bikes, and one for my quantum, because it's a little different, I know how it's wired up, and the relays will give brighter light. I can't figure out, however; how many relays I need. I suspect only one for each bulb, and I think I can wire the relays to the lights, then wire the on/off switch to the hi/lo switch, to the relays.
The relays basically take the load from the switch, allowing it to just be a switch, all it'll do is turn the relay on, to turn theblights on. You might be concerned with loss of daytime visability, it won't be lost, the bike has DRLs in the front, anyway, that are LEDs.
Bonus: I've been considering replacing the main fuse with a tiny breaker switch. Also thinking about getting some halogen projectors from a car, and some H4s. I was told in the TheRetrofitSource messageboard that the LED headlight bulbs I wanted, even in a projector, would not be much better at displacing lights, than the S2's(similar crappy cut-off), except the brighter light would make glare even worse.
I am curious if anybody here has replaced their S2 bulbs with the halogen versions, or something else and how it turned out. I was really considering the halogen S2s for the cheaper route.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Apr 29, 2016 14:34:27 GMT -6
They may have it in there catalog but they didn't have any, or flux, in the store I went to a week ago. And only the cheapest of irons. There stores near you must be much larger. Besides the Blain's Fleet Farm is much better for the same price and less than a 1/4 mile away. Along with Home Depot, Menard's, Sears, Farmers Supply, Northern Tool and two major chain hardware stores. We used to have many Radio Shacks as well. Maybe it's because I lived on the outskirts of Milwaukee/Waukesha and now Appleton/Oshkosh, Wisconsin but, I have never understood the interest in HF shown on this and many other boards. But I still check them out occasionally and get there e-mail flier. Oh well. It's actually far from where I live, I just happened tongo there, befause it was near where my fiance was filling out a job application.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Apr 29, 2016 14:26:49 GMT -6
I doubt skirts will ever be mandatory for anyone(anymore), it's more the option. Anyway; a kilt is basically a skirt, and chonglers are basically capris.
Those colors have been a common combo for decades, isn't there an age old hotorod speed shop in cali that basically paints all their cars that color combo? Seems to be common in the hotrod/air cooled VW scenes.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Apr 29, 2016 14:12:14 GMT -6
A fan cooled engine will not over heat in traffic or when just idling, unless some thing is wrong with the engine. On the other hand a motorcycle type air cooled engine has no fan and requires movement thru the air to stay cool. The makers of all the millions and millions of briggs engines and the like will confirm this. A FAN COOLED ENGINE MAKES IT'S OWN COOLING. If you consider Porsche, and VW; The Type 1 was fanless and air coolled until production ceased, and same with Porsche up until 2006, when they started running more power. If one was concerned about over heating, they could always add another fan in front of the bike, or some.small setup in the back to pull out the heat.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Apr 29, 2016 14:06:53 GMT -6
Liquid cooled on a scooter gives you both cooling, AIR AND LIQUID and the cooler a motor runs the less power is looses. Alleyoop I'd love to see a liquid-cool kit, that still incorperates some fins. I'm sure the liquid-cooled motors still have that fan that blows air on the motor.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Apr 29, 2016 13:25:13 GMT -6
Probably what it is, just like if a car doesn't have non-interferance sparkplug wires, you can hear engine pulses through the radio.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Mar 17, 2016 15:01:21 GMT -6
I had to break open unused, outdated, and nonfunctional tech for the solder, though. Harbor Frieght doesn't sell solder wire.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Mar 17, 2016 13:45:14 GMT -6
The wires to my right front blinker had pulled themselves from the circuitboard months ago, and a few days ago I bit the bullet, and got me a soldering iron, and managed to resolder the wires, not only with a good solder job, but in the correct areas. My first time soldering anything
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Mar 17, 2016 13:39:06 GMT -6
Thanks guys...I found it and the connections have a fair bit of rust in them but i did the wd40 trick and they work now but im gonna clean alot more in there while its apart. Thanks again for the help. Then you might want to get some dielectric grease to put on the contacts. My horn doesn't always work, and I suspect the rusty contacts are why, as the only thing I've done is put a bigger horn on it.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Feb 13, 2016 17:27:37 GMT -6
I have another issue, and didnt want to start a new thread.
It runs fine, but is there anything i can do to stop the throttle from sticking open like it does, when its cold? Like, could I oil the linkage, and cable to get it to stop?
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Feb 4, 2016 20:15:19 GMT -6
Yeah, that was kinda what I was looking for. I thought I seen some for Ruckus, once.The ones for bagger style bikes are longer, and they are kinda double hindged.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Feb 4, 2016 15:13:23 GMT -6
I don't like how my bike sits near verticle, it seems like a gust of wind could blow it over.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Feb 4, 2016 13:48:23 GMT -6
Same thing happened to me a few months back- I thought the scooter was about to die, the needle just dropped. I'm thinking about getting a new handlebar piece, so I'm not worrying about it, until then.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Feb 4, 2016 13:41:05 GMT -6
OK. Picked up the Ice Bear today. Not 100% sure if I did good or not. I had trouble getting down to see it and didn't want to miss out(fear of loss ). I committed to the guy to buy it over the phone. Total cost: $413.23. It runs but it looks like it has been dumped on its side. Upon a visual inspection the frame looks straight but the front fork/triple tree is definitely bent and the rear brake lever is broken (knew that going in). I have no issue with doing the repairs. They are straight forward enough but are parts readily available? I see the levers on EBay but what about the triple tree? Quite a few places to get parts from- even the Ruckshop. That's the firsr "stock Ruck" looking one, I've ever saw, I've always seen the "modded from factory" versions; already stretched, "performance" 2stroke looking exhaust, gokart looking read tire, blah. I wonder how well a Big Ruk clone would sell, since Honda only made them for 2years, some people still want them.
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