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So after screwing with it for about 20min, I noticed the problem was the throttle.

It wasn't snapping back as it should, I could close the throttle by hand, but it'd stick at that one spot, when I teisted the throttle.

I decided to take the throttle apart, and found the problem.

the cable was- for lack of a better term- kinked, or hung up where the barrel end sits. So I freed it, and the valve closed against the screw.

I went about readjusting the idle, did as you guys said, I let it run for newrly ten minutes, and started painstakingly backing out the screw in small increments, and stopping(just in case), and blipping the throttle. It took long enough that by the time I got the wheel to crawl to a stop, turned it off, and started it back up, it actually idled without an uprev.

It seems to have a high idle, now, and sitting at red lights is starting to burn the clutch up. Should I adjust the idle screw, or will it fix itself?

I had to do it earlier to get it started this afternoon, but tonight, it froze up, so I did it again, and the starter stopped working. It was too cold to kickstart. My buddy helped me get it in his dining room. I didn't have time to try and screw with it, because I'm trying to catch the last bus.

I'm gonna go get it in two days, I'm hoping I didn't just screw it up after getting it fixed. I won't be able to do anything until then.

I forgot about the braided lines you can get, originally just performance pads, and that line was my plan. I might be using them too much, alone I only use the rear for about 10seconds to slowdown,initially, then the rest of the stopping is done with the front, unless cornering. With a passanger; I use both of them the whole time to stop.

The rear is a drum.

I can't find the information anywhere, but I was wondering if it would be worth it to either get the big brake kit, or the performance brake pads?

I was thinking the big brake kit for more stopping power, it seems even with regular pads, braking will be better.

As far as the performance pads, I think the rear shoes may last longer than the regular ones.

If the rear performance shoes at least last longer, I figure even if the big brake kit isn't worth the money, maybe just performance pads alone, if they don't fade faster.

I was originally thinking; bbk with performance, or regular pads, and performance rear shoes. not looking to lock up the rear, just want them to last longer than 6mo, I only use them for the initial slowdown, and then let the front do the rest, kinda like how a non-abs rwd car/truck brake metering works.

I would love to have that bike.