Here is my experience with Scrappydogs Scooter parts.
They sent me the wrong part then wouldn't talk to me.
"I was sent a cylinder kit with the wrong gudgeon pin. Try as I may (several times) to get the situation rectified they simply chose to ignore me in the end hoping I'd go away. Due to poor packaging, the head gasket I ordered was damaged and they weren't interested in that either. There are plenty of other suppliers out there I suggest using one of them."
try to reach them now, they had been away for serious health and family reasons, and left a manager in charge, who had majorly screwed them over, ,missing money, parts, mountains of unfulfilled orders, screwed up orders, they came back to this and the manager vanished, he's been posting on 49cc scoot, him and his wife are trying to sort through this mess
Post by lostforawhile on Jan 29, 2018 18:58:12 GMT -6
I'm going to link this to my thread on 49cc scoot, these used to be quality starters, but it looks like they went full crap. This is the third one in 3000 miles. This is the same brand many parts places sell. basically the end of the armature, which is plain steel, is riding in a plain steel bushing, instead of a bronze or oilite bearing, and they don't even have any grease in the bushing. The bushing or shaft wears,then the armature drags on the magnets, because it's out of alignment. If they had just installed a dam proper bushing, they would be great starters. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/20724/hawaia-starter-recommendation
Post by lostforawhile on Jan 28, 2018 20:30:22 GMT -6
are you pulling the brake? does your brake light come on? the solenoid power comes from the brake, and the ground from the kill switch when turned to off, after it goes through the start switch. do you have a kickstand down? some kill the ignition, some prevent from starting
Post by lostforawhile on Jan 26, 2018 20:59:50 GMT -6
I just changed out another one, fixed the starting issue, when they go bad, you'll hear a distinctly different sound, as it's not spinning the starter clutch enough to spin out the gear properly, to engage the ring gear teeth. it almost sounds like the engine has no compression when it's failing. the edges of the clutch drive teeth,will rattle against the ring gear. The starter has to spin over the engine really fast, almost like kick starting it, at least on AC cdi ones.
Probably because it's a VIP based scooter. The only issue is the swing arm. Which I'm about to get fixed Sunday by a welder. I told him to ensure he does not remove the temper from the metal. If anything try to reinforce it with a bracket behind it.
It fits great to be honest!
Off topic, no clue what his problem is. You run into people like that in different community's. Instead of trying to point the right direction they talk down instead..
the 139qmb long case and short case bolt up the same, the main difference is the swing arm,which is part of the engine itself, and I believe you have a 12 inch tire, a long case engine is designed to go in a frame designed for it, I'm trying my best to help you, you are bogging your engine with the wrong weights, you are afraid of the engine running at high RPM,which is needed for it to be in it's powerband, and you are ignoring the benefits of synthetic oil, which will protect your engine,immeasurably better, because of old myths, the only thing you need to do is break it in on dino oil, so the engine parts break in properly, then go to quality synthetic and never look back, I run mine an average of 300 miles a week, mostly full out, for long distances, my oil always looks great when I change it, my only issues are the typical chinese parts breaking,ignition coils,starters, stators,CDI boxes etc, the engine itself runs great.
This thread is some hilarious comedy. keep it going please Something like the blind leading the blind and dumb and dumber put together the only thing is i can't figure out who is who. The plethora of misinformation and total bunk is deep and a indication of the pathetic state of our Youth...
Post by lostforawhile on Jan 25, 2018 18:51:24 GMT -6
That's a myth from the early days of synthetic oil,and no one said go back to conventional oil,you break in an engine on conventional,to allow enough friction for the break in process. Then switch to synthetic and stay with it,
Post by lostforawhile on Jan 24, 2018 21:24:54 GMT -6
the reason you run synthetic in an air cooled engine, is it can handle much higher heat then standard oils, you only have one break in period , this allows the parts to wear together, such as the rings to the bore, the cam shaft, valves to their seats etc, there is no second break in, once the parts are worn together, they are worn together, even briggs and stratton is going synthetic, you run regular oil for the first 1000 miles and vary your speed, no extended runs etc, the regular oil allows enough friction, for the parts to wear together, you change it at 500 miles, then again at 500 miles, then change to synthetic, the synthetic is so slippery you can't break in parts on it, this is good once the engine is past break in. Also the 139qmb chinese engines, call for 15-40 which is heavy duty diesel oil. the typical powerband you want these engines to run in, is about 8,500 rpm, they have no torque, so you have to keep the rpms up to get it to move properly
Post by lostforawhile on Jan 24, 2018 10:07:03 GMT -6
The spring colors usually designate the strength of the contra spring,blue is just above stock, the three clutch engagement springs should be stock springs for most uses, the race ones require you to rev the engine to engage the clutch. If it came with the engine assembly they are stock. Don't worry about the engine rpms, you had a mechanical failure,it happens, but they need to rev up to be in their designed power band, they are like big weed eater engines. It's nerve racking but it's what they are designed for,and sometimes chinese engines blow up,it's just what hapens,break the engine in right,then run good synthetic oil,and keep it changed
Post by lostforawhile on Jan 23, 2018 20:08:12 GMT -6
it sounds like you are trying to put a long case engine on a short case frame, there are two styles of 139 QMB, the engine is supposed to hit high rpm before the clutch engages, that's perfectly normal, they run around 10,000 rpm normally. the engine will rev up, then the belt will gradually shift from low gear to high gear, and accelerate, but the engines rpms are supposed to stay up, it's a CVT transmission, not a motorcycle with gears. Forget everything mechanical you might know about engines, these are not cars, and they aren't motorcycles, so most of what applies doesn't transfer over. the 5 gram rollers are fine, the normal range on a 139 QMB is around 4.5 to 6 grams depending on rider weight and when you want the variator to move, the weights you have are too heavy and will bog the engine. On acceleration the engine will rev way up, then will stay high while the belt shifts between pulleys to accelerate the scooter then levels off , I don't know whats going on with the jetting but the 90 is dumping even more fuel then the 88 and should make the flame issue worse, I have a 63cc version of the 139QMB, with a non restricted exhaust, and I can't even run a 90. As far as your clutch, it's centrifugal it's not supposed to engage until the rpms go up, did you change your contra spring on the clutch? or the clutch engagement springs? it sounds like it has racing springs installed, is this scooter new? or used? it's possible someone swapped them, if they did, you need stock engagement springs and maybe a blue contra spring
Post by lostforawhile on Jan 23, 2018 10:05:26 GMT -6
I need more information, how long did this sit,is it a gravity fed tank? 139qmb? If it sat for any length of time with ethenol fuel, you need to drain and flush your tank, change the fuel lines,if it has a pump,plan to replace it,if it's gravity fed, you need a new fuel petcock most likely, if it sat with ethenol fuel in the carb,just get a new carb, it's not worth fixing,it corrodes the crap out of the carb,and eats the rubber parts, replace the vaccume lines to if they sat,and no change the oil,gear oil,and spark plug
Post by lostforawhile on Jan 22, 2018 19:59:57 GMT -6
you need to measure the voltage directly at the starter terminal when cranking, if it's good, it's probably the starter, this will rule out a bad solenoid etc, I've been through two already in 3000 miles, and I'm about to replace a third, it seems they aren't made worth a crap. I also jump started mine, and it would crank fine for a few seconds, then slow down, I made nice crimped 6 gauge starter and battery cables, if it won't crank with those and a jump start battery, there is nothing else but the starter. I also noticed that the chinese scooters copy Honda on the solenoid mounting, so if you have to replace one, I would bet an early gold wing solenoid, drops right in there, much better quality