Post by lostforawhile on Dec 23, 2017 18:08:35 GMT -6
as long as you aren't running it with nothing attached to the head, it will be fine, what's more important during break in, is that you don't run it all out for long periods of time, the rings need to wear to the bore, valves seat properly etc, don't run synthetic oil during break in, you need some friction, run conventional 15-40 for about the first 1000 miles, change it at 500 miles, then change again to synthetic at about 1000 miles
Post by lostforawhile on Dec 22, 2017 16:07:56 GMT -6
it depends on whats wrong, if it could be fixed by a BBC then you might be in luck, a 50cc chinese engine is really not that much, you really need to to pull the head and jug and see if the rod and bearings are ok
Post by lostforawhile on Dec 22, 2017 15:56:01 GMT -6
call them up at NYC scooters, he can set you up with an 11 pole that will work fine, and the matching regulator, you'll have to make your own harness, it's not difficult though. 6 pole stators are worthless
Post by lostforawhile on Dec 16, 2017 2:48:32 GMT -6
why not stop gathering advice,and actually get your hands dirty, and fix your scooter? stop talking and start wrenching, you apparently just want to complain about how it's broke. I've been out in the rain and cold fixing mine, while you've been gathering information, mine now runs, yours is still broke. bots just post and gather information, are you saying you are a bot? you stated you are just "gathering information"
Dunno if this is allowed, but 49ccscoot has good pictures of a 50cc with the black cooling shroud installed, and pictures as it is removed. If you look at them, you may be able to determine where the leak is occurring. See the pics here:
Page down looking at the pictures, and you'll see what you would reveal by removing the black plastic cooling shroud. Do not run the engine without the shrouds for any length of time as they direct the cooling air from the flywheel blower across the parts of the engine that need cooling. Without the shrouds, the engine will get too hot and either ruin the rings/piston/cylinder or freeze up completely. tom
yea a lot of guys from here are on 50ccscoot and vise versa, there are only a couple of good scooter boards,so info gets shared
Post by lostforawhile on Dec 14, 2017 18:29:50 GMT -6
is this going to be like the 49cc posts where we try to help you, and you ignore what we say, and keep posting the same questions, over and over? it was already explained that your CDI wasn't restricted and you want to change from a Yamaha to a cheap "racing CDI"
I'd check all connectors and terminations of the ignition system before I tore into it,,,,and start with the easy stuff first,,,,if the plug and connection tests don't work start with the coil,,,,oh I forgot,,,check all ground straps and frame terminations also
I was working the past few days. Just saw your post after trying a coil from Amazon. I could not get spark or a spark tester to light up. I'll check the connections, good thinking. I'm not seeing corrosion anywhere so far. If the starter kicks over doesn't than mean the solenoid relay is working? I was thinking next I'll test for voltage coming into the coil. Battery terminals wires look brand new on the new battery and it turns over strong. The fuse terminals look good. I'll do some more investigating. What about a 12v 25amp relay that I saw under a rubber boot cover? What does that feed? It was right next to the coil, had two thicker gauge wires that I haven't followed yet.
Oh, and it is an air puffer hose to the fuel pump from a nipple coming off the crankcase to control the fuel pump just like a boat.
Posted by phone
the hose going to the fuel pump is vacuum, the pump is vacuum powered. make sure it's in good condition, if your carb has a drain hose, open the drain and empty the old fuel out of the bowl, and check to see if the pump is filling it again. the relay next to the coil is your starter relay, if the starter turns, it's fine. did you remove the manifold? there are a couple of gaskets on the spacer under it, and some O rings,I just made my own thicker gaskets and got rid of the O rings, terrible design, I sealed then with permatex anaerobic sealer. the spacer can crack, and the manifold can crack,both which will kill vacuum, and stop it from running
It should be magatized,,,get a small magnet and pass it over the pickup ,,,it'll fire the plug
that's what I thought but by holding the pickup next to the outside of the spinning jaws on my lathe I got .6 volts and it's not magnetized , it's from the jaws cutting through the field and causing it to collapse ,which induces current like an ignition coil