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Post by epdowd on Jul 23, 2010 17:41:52 GMT -6
Thanks for the reply. Yep, I roughed it up with some coarse sandpaper before I put on the RTV..
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Post by epdowd on Jul 22, 2010 18:05:57 GMT -6
OK, I have put around 40 mi an the scoot since the Red RTV sealer. Still have a leak but a very small one so it has helped quite a bit. If it gets worse I'll follow the Dr.'s orders , clean everything off, drain oil and apply a dose of torch.. Then Red RTV..
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Post by epdowd on Jul 19, 2010 8:00:00 GMT -6
Great story jr !!, I just went out and bought enough bubble gum to fill the trunk !! and the neighbors dog said he will do the chewing  .. Well I already put the Red Hi Temp RTV on. I roughed up the case with some sand paper, cleaned it several times with Naptha and then pressed and spread the RTV on. I let it set all day yesterday and will see what happens today when I take it out for a good run. Thanks for the tip tho,, I'll definitley use that method if this doesn't pan out. I'm hoping I don't have to use the additive. |
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Post by epdowd on Jul 16, 2010 8:31:30 GMT -6
Thanks for the replies guy's !!. Yes, I think I will try it in a few days. I'm watching to see if it is getting worse,, seems to be..
I'll check all the Stop Leak brands and go from there. Will keep you posted. Our local motorcycle shop is closed for vacation. I was going to see if there is a way to weld the block.
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Post by epdowd on Jul 15, 2010 16:00:13 GMT -6
A bit of forecasting here, if the crankcase oil leak gets worse. Has anyone tried any of the Stop Leak additive to the oil ?? I have read that it may clog radiator and heater cores but my scoot doesn't have any so,, any idea's eh  |
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Post by epdowd on Jun 29, 2010 17:07:46 GMT -6
Yes, my wife and I got a good look at it last night !!!
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Post by epdowd on Jun 29, 2010 16:01:45 GMT -6
Thanks again Bashan,, That is a relief , I was using the timing mark method,, had me worried for a while.. I'll go by the hole position. Yep, I removed the airbox and put on a Uni filter. It ran great untill I messed with the carb. to correct the white ceramic. I changed the original main jet from 100 to 115, 125, 135. still white. It ran perfect with the 125 or 135. from idle to WOT. Tested all of them at the WOT test.. So my demise came when I started changing washers in the needle jet,, something happened there. No matter how many or no washers I swapped, the scoot would only do max 25 mph. No change with the 1/4, 1/2 & back off throttle method, just plug along at 25 mph. I removed and tested the auto choke for the correct needle movement, checked good. No holes in the needles diaphram.. Made sure the diaphram gasket was seated properly. I had adjusted the valves before this all started, .004 and .005 and it was runnining fine, but decided to check them again and then this poser came up.. I gave up and ordered an exact replacement type carb. from Scrappydog. P.S. I called Sherlock Holmes at 221B Baker street for help but no one answered  |
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Post by epdowd on Jun 29, 2010 11:29:10 GMT -6
Adjusting the Valves on my GY6 150cc:
When I set the Timing Tab on the mark to the Left of the T as per instructions, the holes in the Chain Sprocket aren't aligned perfectly. With Large hole to the front I see approx. 1/4 of the Top hole and all and then some of the Bottom hole.
If I align the upper and lower holes on the Sprocket then the T mark is approx. 3/8 inch to the Right of the timing tab.
Now this scoot ran great untill I started fiddling around with the Carb to correct a lean condition.
What Timing positions do I believe. The T Mark or Top and Bottom holes ??
Thanks..
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Post by epdowd on Jun 24, 2010 8:13:02 GMT -6
Yes, the other connector is plugged. Does nothing it appears..
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Post by epdowd on Jun 22, 2010 17:11:35 GMT -6
Thanks Bashan !!, I sent a PM. I found several pictures of the carb showing the two connections but no explanations other than the drain line..
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Post by epdowd on Jun 22, 2010 10:37:06 GMT -6
1. On the bottom of my Keihin carb appears to be two drain barbs. One has the drain hose connected. What is the other one ??
2. Will brass work for the shim washers on the needle valve ?.
Thanks..
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Post by epdowd on Jun 16, 2010 11:00:28 GMT -6
I just did the WOT test. Had about two miles on it then stayed WOT for a while, Hit the Kill switch and pulled over. The ceramic is maybe a light grey and the ground strap is grey with black tip. I think I'll keep it as is..
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Post by epdowd on Jun 16, 2010 6:36:58 GMT -6
Thank you AO and Bashan. I have been useing the NGK Plug example chart and I'm pretty close to the correct color, just concerned about it being too white. I'll give it the test you mentioned, also put a few more miles on the scoot. I only have 178 mi. on it..I wanted to get it right before I put all the panels back on..The valves are set at .004 and .005.
Thanks again..
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Post by epdowd on Jun 15, 2010 15:20:49 GMT -6
I know this is an old story but I have read about all the info I can find here, so I'll have to explain and ask :
My scoot has the 157QMJ 150cc engine. I removed the airbox, kept all the hoses in their original connections, put on a Unifilter and it ran Lean, it ran a bit Rich prior to the Uni Filter.. The original main jet was 100, so I tried a 115 and then a 125. Both tests were done with a standard NGK plug gapped at .032 and an NGK Iridium plug gapped as it came out of the box. After running for five miles on each plug the ceramic around the electrode is still nice and white on both plugs.(should be brown?) The difference is the ground strap on the standard NGK is an ashy white , while the ground strap on the Iridium plug is grey with a black tip.
I am useing 91 octane gas at 3500 ft.
Should I go to the 135 jet or look else where ??
It runs perfect at idle, mid range and WOT,, it is fast !!
Thanks a lot..
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Post by epdowd on May 27, 2010 17:19:25 GMT -6
Wow, What a head ache Rich !!. Hope you have it nailed finally..When you did the mod on your air filter, what hose did you use from the air filter to carb ?. I'm changing mine over, have the same new air filter (Scrappy Dog). My carb OD is 42mm so if the hose you used fit both the carb and air filter, I'll try that one !!. I ordered a reducer hose that should fit both the ID's and OD's
at the ends. That long hose you used may make it more accessable!!
Thanks.. Harv..
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.. Well I already put the Red Hi Temp RTV on. I roughed up the case with some sand paper, cleaned it several times with Naptha and then pressed and spread the RTV on.
