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Post by gatekeeper on May 20, 2013 16:25:33 GMT -6
Here is a video. You don't really have to worry about taking the fan cover off to line up timing marks. Just make sure the holes on the cam sprocket line up as shown so that the rocker arms are on the backside of the cam lobes. Adjust the valves with a cold engine. scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=videos&action=display&thread=4730Shouldn't have to pull the engine, maybe a few body panels. |
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Post by gatekeeper on May 20, 2013 16:17:59 GMT -6
Alright, good deal!
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Post by gatekeeper on May 19, 2013 11:06:12 GMT -6
You can check it cold or warm. If warm, wait 2 or 3 minutes after shutting off the motor to let it drain back to the sump. Check it while on the centerstand. I check it with the dipstick unscrewed, slide it in then pull it out and look. Oil should come up to the middle of the hash marks at the bottom of the dipstick.
Any good automotive quality 10W40 oil is what they like. A complete oil change only takes about 750ml.
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Post by gatekeeper on May 17, 2013 14:55:47 GMT -6
That one fluctuates between $19 and $29 all of the time. It all depends on when they decide to put it on a coupon.
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Post by gatekeeper on May 17, 2013 11:44:23 GMT -6
The red wire with a fuse goes to your ignition switch. With the switch in the "on" position the red wire feeds power to the black wire coming out of the ignition switch to your horn, brakelight, turn signals, etc. The ignition switch may be hooked up wrong, or be defective, sending the red wire to ground and blowing the fuse when turned to the "on" position.
Switch wiring
Red = power into switch
Black = power out of switch
Black/White = Kill switch
Green = Ground
Use a continuity tester, unplug the ignition switch and test with the switch turned "on". You should have a closed circuit (continuity) when touching the test leads to the red and black wires. If you find continuity between the red and Black/White or the Green, the switch is bad.
At the connector, make sure the red goes to red, green to green, black to black and the Black/White to the Black/White.
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Post by gatekeeper on May 17, 2013 11:22:43 GMT -6
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Post by gatekeeper on May 15, 2013 17:15:29 GMT -6
I would pull the front wheel and check to see if there is grease in the speedometer drive gear (puck). I would also check the wheel bearings for grease and smooth operation while the wheel is off.
Before you do this take note, does the noise go away when the brakes are applied? If so the brakes could be partially dragging, causing the noise.
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Post by gatekeeper on May 14, 2013 5:36:45 GMT -6
Nice to hear from you and that you are still alive and kicking! Hang in there and you WILL get it running again.  |
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Post by gatekeeper on May 10, 2013 17:20:41 GMT -6
Get a new battery. Then get it started and check your charging voltage before worrying about anything else.
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Post by gatekeeper on Apr 28, 2013 8:15:51 GMT -6
Just sitting here at work. Watching the rain come down.  |
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Post by gatekeeper on Apr 13, 2013 22:20:29 GMT -6
Make sure when you check for spark you are grounding the plug on the motor, the valve cover is a good place to do it. If you are getting spark at the motor then reinstall the plug and take off the vacuum hose at the intake manifold. Spray some carb cleaner or dribble a little gas into the vacuum port, replace the hose and crank the engine. If it pops and trys to start then it is a fuel flow problem. If it doesn't then it's a compression or timing issue.
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Post by gatekeeper on Apr 2, 2013 19:52:09 GMT -6
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 20, 2012 10:04:40 GMT -6
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 20, 2012 10:01:32 GMT -6
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Post by gatekeeper on Sept 19, 2012 23:23:29 GMT -6
I just drilled three of those carbs that I got free from a rental place. He replaces the carbs on all the new scooters he gets in. All three had all of the parts (screw, spring, washer and o-ring) that they should. The factory had set one screw to 2 turns out and the other two were set to 1 3/4 turns out.
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