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Post by sprocket on Sept 23, 2011 10:38:42 GMT -6
Yeah.. I wouldn't wash it unless it is foam. If you have compressed air just blow it out to clean it...
It will look dirt long before the dirt has any effect on the engine performance
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Post by sprocket on Sept 23, 2011 10:31:58 GMT -6
If you are getting oil in the air box, you likely have to much oil in the engine... it should only require 750 ml or 26 oz. about 3/4 of a quart of oil...
If the oil is not overfilled you may have worn rings and something called 'blow-by'...
On a good engine you should get about 1 ounce of milky watery oil a week. The oil comes from the valve cover vent hose... you can just stick it in a can to catch the oil and water...or I have it tied up high on the frame with a gas filter stuck on the end. Seems to work OK , but check the gas filter every oil change to be certain the oil doesn't block it.
Like Rich I like the side air boxes that use a washable foam filter. Really easy to maintain and clean...also holds the carb in place and stops it moving around like when people use a UNI or K&N filter
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Post by sprocket on Sept 22, 2011 18:50:23 GMT -6
You should adjust your valve gaps... they may be tight and causing the valves to leak compression...
Not sure the recommended gaps on a Kymco, but try .004 inch on both then recheck your compression...
A hot and wet (oiled) compression should be between 155 to 165 psi...
So 140 is a bit low...if the engine was hot...but still in the 'good range'
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Post by sprocket on Sept 22, 2011 15:47:17 GMT -6
Valve gaps? Tired petcock or fuel pump?
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Post by sprocket on Sept 22, 2011 15:46:17 GMT -6
Sorry Rich, him.. he switched CDIs.. I think he may have the wrong type... switched DC for AC or visa-versa
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Post by sprocket on Sept 22, 2011 14:05:24 GMT -6
Wrong type of CDI.. perhaps you had a DC and have tried to replace it with an AC type?
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Post by sprocket on Sept 20, 2011 18:25:05 GMT -6
No problem we are just here to help... sometimes the message gets garbled...glad you got the right length shaft... bet the chrome cover looks great!
Keep an eye on the alarm.. they are very very flakey... I know many dudes that have had to take a hike because the alarms failed...
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Post by sprocket on Sept 20, 2011 18:19:00 GMT -6
Very cool Rich, very cool... now the question is HOW cool...... ? Only thing ...I would use a 90 degree elbow on the bottom oil drain plug...
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Post by sprocket on Sept 19, 2011 17:47:54 GMT -6
Lean or Rich do a plug read at 100 miles/kilometers. Other than a meter that is the best way to tell the air/fuel mixture..
>>150s are good for 50-55mph. I agree with Alley. With a FF exhaust and well tuned engine and playing with the CVT you might get 60 mph WOT
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Fuel gauge
by: sprocket - Sept 19, 2011 15:34:15 GMT -6
Post by sprocket on Sept 19, 2011 15:34:15 GMT -6
It has to be a REAL cork.. some of the wine corks these days are plastic and some are fine pieces of cork glued together...
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Post by sprocket on Sept 19, 2011 15:22:08 GMT -6
>>cork is not affected by gas
Nope that is what is in my '53 Ford F100...still works perfectly...
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Post by sprocket on Sept 18, 2011 11:55:46 GMT -6
Also understand the odometer is probably in Kilometers.. not Miles...so you need to do a calculation
Don't believe the sales pitch...
These engine are not very efficient actually... and 70 mpg on the odometer is fairly good...run 87 AKI octane you may see an improvement
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Post by sprocket on Sept 18, 2011 11:48:48 GMT -6
OK... sounds like your float is flooded... just replace the sender unit. Some people have made new floats and a wine cork will work also...
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Post by sprocket on Sept 18, 2011 11:47:33 GMT -6
There is a C-clip on the end of the float wire at the sender circuit board. They tighten over time and stop the float from moving... Try backing the C-clip off a bit...
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Post by sprocket on Sept 18, 2011 11:44:13 GMT -6
Stator? Replace the ignition switch or disconnect the headlight wire at the switch or disconnect the battery...
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