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Post by rob63 on Jun 15, 2012 2:16:40 GMT -6
If the shaft is spinning but the wheel is not then I would think you`ve ripped the splines out on the wheel or from the shaft. Plus the back brake going hard is very suspect. Time to free up the brake and get the back wheel off before going any further.
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Post by rob63 on Jun 10, 2012 9:35:58 GMT -6
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Post by rob63 on Jun 10, 2012 4:25:10 GMT -6
In theory you should be able to do the nut up and at some point the back wheel will start to bind or lock up.
If it`s not doing that then it`s time to pull off the rear wheel and check that everything is ok with the brake shoes.
Once the wheel is off you can make sure that the linings are still on the shoes, the return springs are still in place and that when you pull the brake lever the cam should turn so expanding the brake shoes.
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Post by rob63 on Jun 9, 2012 15:01:15 GMT -6
Slightly confused, if it`s a cable operated drum brake then there will be no brake fluid involved. Sometimes when you turn the adjuster nut the inner cable will turn as well, if you follow the cable from the nut to the other side of the brake arm you should see a spring. Inside the spring you should be able to see the inner cable, using a pair of thin nose pliers to hold the cable try adjusting the nut again.
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Post by rob63 on Jun 9, 2012 8:29:25 GMT -6
Have you checked your wheel to make sure it`s true ?
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Post by rob63 on May 24, 2012 15:32:56 GMT -6
Have you check that the throttle is in the idle position? I have seen lawn mowers do that and it is usually the butterfly valve opening by vibration... Is there a vacuum petcock on it? it could be leaking and dumping raw fuel into the intake elbow...from the vacuum line... It has to be fuel... even if the electricals went crazy the engine would just stall from lack of fuel... It`s a little slide carb so no butterfly. The tank is in the footwell with a vacuum pulse pump to get the fuel up to the carb. I`ll have to check the vacuum pipe, although it`s a pain to get to as it dissappears under the barrel cowl into the crankcase, not into the inlet manifold. Mmm food for thought.... Thanks chaps, it`ll give me a few more avenues of exploration. |
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Post by rob63 on May 24, 2012 14:43:15 GMT -6
Thought I`d post this one up to see if anyone has any ideas. One of the fleet hire scoots (Sym Euro 50cc 2 stroke) at work has developed a slight problem or two about a week ago.
Firstly it won`t idle when cold, hold the throttle for a minute and it then settles down to a reasonably steady idle. However after it`s warmed up after about 5-10 minutes the thing slowly starts increasing it`s revs all by itself to the point where the engine is going full bore.
We`ve set the carb up and then reset it trying slightly different adjustments each time. I`ve checked resistance on the choke unit, checked current feed to it. Removed it to visually check it`s doing what it`s supposed to. Sprayed light oil liberally all round the inlets, carb, filter areas to no avail. Checked jets, needle, throttle cable and slide etc.
Had the same model in which was accident damaged but running fine, so yesterday we swapped the whole carb/choke unit over to the problem scoot, but the same symptoms occur.
I`m now erring on the electrical side as a potential problem but not sure whether there is anything there which would cause it to rev it`s nuts off by itself.
Any ideas ladies and gents ?
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Post by rob63 on May 24, 2012 13:32:29 GMT -6
Ok so it seems that your headlights run off dc current, on your left switchgear do you have a switch like this with the hi/lo beam symbols on it. Does the headlight bulb light up in both those positions ?  |
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Post by rob63 on May 24, 2012 11:07:41 GMT -6
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Post by rob63 on May 24, 2012 11:01:04 GMT -6
Just to clarify, are you confusing your hi/lo beams (main headlight) with your side/day (running lights) ?
As Bashan stated we need to know if you`re main headlight only comes on when the engine is running, or does it come on simply by turning the ignition switch on without the engine running ?
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Post by rob63 on May 24, 2012 8:26:38 GMT -6
Yep that`s the one.
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Post by rob63 on May 23, 2012 14:30:24 GMT -6
High and low beams should operate off the same rocker switch, so if you`ve got power to the high beam there should be power getting to the rocker switch at least. Have you swapped the headlight bulb just to make sure the low beam filament isn`t busted ? If the bulb is ok then you`d have to trace the low beam wire from the rocker switch to the bulb itself and check the wire for continuity.
Have you got a separate switch to turn the sidelights and headlights on or do they come on automatically ?
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Post by rob63 on May 22, 2012 14:35:47 GMT -6
You could be right buddy, something lost in translation maybe. Depends what end he`s thinking of, the blunt or pointy end  |
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Post by rob63 on May 22, 2012 14:24:43 GMT -6
I did ask that Alleyoop, my first thought was that he`s moved the clip towards the blunt end, but he`s confirmed that he`s moved the clip to the needle (pointy) end, so raising the needle in the jet. Unless of course there has been a misunderstanding ? |
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Post by rob63 on May 22, 2012 13:57:41 GMT -6
May sound a bit silly for a brand new engine, but have you checked the cam timing and valve gaps ?
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