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Post by jhbietz on Aug 29, 2010 12:17:55 GMT -6
Nice scoot! I like the painted CVT cover.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 27, 2010 4:11:58 GMT -6
Along with Dr Jr recommended you should also check the vacuum operated fuel shut off valve. It is ether on the bottom of the fuel tank or on the frame of the bike. It will have 3 lines hooked up to it if its one the frame. One coming from the tank, one from the carb and one vacume line. If its one the tank it will only have the vacuum line and the line to the carb. If this valve gets sticky it will allow fuel to continue to flow into the carb after the engine has been shut off. The needle and seat in the carb can leak a little and the carb will flood. To check the valve, warm up your scoot, shut it off, remove fuel line from carb and place it in a tin can. If fuel continues to flow over and above what would be in the fuel line your shut off valve is bad.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 23, 2010 16:59:34 GMT -6
I LOVE the pond plan! Please post pictures when its done.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 23, 2010 16:50:36 GMT -6
I made some for an old scooter I sold. I used 1/16 inch aluminum diamond plate. I cut it a fraction oversize with a skill saw and then sanded the edges. Came out very nice. I plan on doing the same with my new tank.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 22, 2010 16:30:17 GMT -6
This is what I use in all my scooters. I had never heard not to use full synthetic so after break in switched to this. You will notice its a diesel oil so it still has the anti scuffing compounds like zink that the standard oils don't. I testing the theory that you shouldn't use synthetics on break in with my Tank 150 since I have a 250 sitting on my workbench waiting to go into it. I drained the oil and refilled with synthetic right out of the crate. So far so good at over 700 miles. Attachments:
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 21, 2010 21:29:39 GMT -6
Thank you for posting the pictures! Those are so COOL! I would love to ride around on one of those but I can't even find a restoreable one I can afford.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 21, 2010 18:21:47 GMT -6
That Victory is a beautiful bike! Too bad its a V twin. LOL
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 21, 2010 16:13:42 GMT -6
Its such a nice looking little classic that if it were mine I would leave it alone. Then again, what is the fun in that?
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 16, 2010 14:21:58 GMT -6
Also make shure the flywheel itself is good. Sometimes the rivets that hold it onto its hub will get loose and sound like a bad rod barring.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 16, 2010 14:17:47 GMT -6
I have seen where the ignition sensor will come loose and start hitting the little raised magnet on the flywheel. Its easy to check, just take the fan cover off and inspect. Usually there will be little metal pieces on the trigger.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 3, 2010 6:52:40 GMT -6
I have found them to be of superior quality to your run of the mill eBay type parts.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 1, 2010 21:26:37 GMT -6
The only improvement I have noticed is the exhaust runs a little cooler. Mostly it just cleans up the engine compartment and leaves you with one less thing to go wrong.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 1, 2010 6:22:02 GMT -6
Dr Jr has you pointed in the right direction. The only thing I can add is if you do change your torque spring change it bephore you start playing with the weights otherwise your get to do it again as the spring changes your "shift" points and often requires heavier weights.
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Post by jhbietz on Jul 31, 2010 20:32:22 GMT -6
if you have that type of EGR system it will be on the valve cover close to the exhaust valve.
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Post by jhbietz on Jul 31, 2010 19:42:54 GMT -6
There are a couple of different EGR systems that I have seen. if you have the head with a chrome pipe bolted to it I just cut the pipe even with the flange that bolts on and weld the hole shut in the flange and re install. The rest you can strip out just be sure to plug the vacume lines.
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