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Post by new2scootn on Aug 2, 2014 11:18:29 GMT -6
Thanks bud, I'll let you know how I make out.
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Post by new2scootn on Aug 2, 2014 9:41:32 GMT -6
also very important when you unload the wheels check the hub / spindle preload there may lie the problem as well ,,,an easy check is when it's in the air grab the top and bottom of the front wheel and see if you can "rock" it no discernable play should be felt ,,as in none,, Thanks to all for your input. Hey Cyborg, hub/spindle preload is exactly the slight play I'm talking about. So to eliminate this play would I be tightening the big "king pin" bolt or the adjusters on the sides??? |
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Post by new2scootn on Jul 29, 2014 19:50:05 GMT -6
If only this one said "scooter"...  Oh wait, here's one...  or this...  |
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Post by new2scootn on Jul 29, 2014 19:20:55 GMT -6
So here's a pic showing the spindle(?) on my reverse trike. I have found that there's some play at the top and bottom pivots where the suspension arms attach(red arrows). I'm thinking this might be the cause or at least a contributing factor in the front end shakes/wobbles/oscillation I get at lower speeds on deceleration. My question is: what are these things poking out(blue arrows) that are made to be adjustable? Do they adjust the bearings in this spindle? Sunny doesn't even show them in their parts listing for the trike and so far a web search hasn't been helpful. Anybody know??  Here's the detailed pic. Didn't want to start messin' with those adjusters until I knew more about them. Don't need any more problems than I've already got... |
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Post by new2scootn on Jul 20, 2014 22:02:23 GMT -6
So after almost two years of ridin' with a fuel gauge that only worked when I wanted to fix it(and only runnin' out of gas once-but that's another story), I finally caught it readin' about a quarter full right after I filled the tank and even more unbelievably was in the mood to tear her apart again. I was wigglin' wires and when I got to the main connector at the back of the speedo head and moved it a certain way the fuel gauge would drop out completely or start fillin' up. So I'm thinkin' it's a broken wire at or near that connector. Pulled the whole speedo head out and rung out all the wiring for the fuel gauge. Naturally everything checked out perfectly and no broken wires. So it's gotta be a bad connection right? Well that's what it turned out to be but it sure wasn't obvious. No loose pins on the speedo head, and the female connections didn't look bad but I squeazed 'em closed a little and maybe most importantly put some dielectric grease on all of the connections. Plugged everything back together and she's workin' like a charm. Damn, if this keeps up I might just run out of things to fix on this beast! :-SUhhh, ok, maybe not. Was just ridin' her the other day and tryin' to miss as many of the friggin' ruts, potholes, divets, cracks, heaves, patches, craters, dips, gaps, oncoming traffic(because I've gotta stare at the road to avoid all this crap!), and she felt rough over some bumps-almost like something was knocking in the suspension. Well it's a good thing I checked her out when I got back home. I haven't really checked the rear suspension much since I reengineered the motor mount. Overconfident with my work I guess(LOL!) So I checked the rear wheel for side to side movement(wag) and couldn't believe it! It had more side to side movement than before I fixed the motor mount. ;-|Naturally I start thinking of worse case scenarios: urethane bushings cracked/separated, all those new sleeves I made ruined, all that work... Hey wait a minute, this nut is only hand tight! Yup, the nut to the bolt that holds the motor mount to the motor had backed out makin' for all kinds of slop. Luckily nothing else got damaged(especially me) but this is one nut that just cannot come loose. Makes me wonder if a lot of motor mount failures on these trikes are actually a result of these nuts coming loose and overstressing the bushings. This nut is supposed to be some type of lock nut but it ain't workin' so now there's a good old American lock washer under it keepin' me safe. I would urge all you guys that have one of these Sunny reverse trikes to check your motor mount bolts(uppers and lower) and make sure they're good-n-tight!  |
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Post by new2scootn on May 2, 2014 23:18:11 GMT -6
Hey richardv, I never used Dyna Beads but when I was researching them I stumbled on Ride-On and found it has benefits that the beads don't offer. It's pudding-like consistency stays put so the wheels don't have to completely rebalance every time you ride, and it offers sealing of punctures in the main tread area. To me this just seemed like a better overall choice and I have been very happy with it(except for the time I put too much in and had to dismount the tire to scoop it out--not fun!).  And great to hear from ya daddue and congrats on retiring!  Ya lucky bum! Would be nice to see/hear from all us idiots with these strange beasts. I'll try to post some new pics soon buddy.  (Hey, how come there's no smileys on trikes???-LOL!) |
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Post by new2scootn on Apr 23, 2014 9:21:55 GMT -6
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Post by new2scootn on Apr 5, 2014 7:13:56 GMT -6
The problem with my clutch was that the friction material was almost completely gone and it was slipping. The only way I knew something was wrong was the cover was very hot and I could smell it when I stopped. For the alignment, I jacked up the front of the scooter and used a jack stand to support it. I took the front tires off and attached long bubble levels to the hubs making sure that each side (driver/passenger) were the same. Lock the brakes. Measure the distance between the levels in the front then measure the distance between the levels in the back. Adjust the tie rods until both measurements are the same. I was talking about the motor mount. I was very lucky not to loose the bushing on the right side. I got it back together and used lock tight and two nuts to secure the bolt in place. The mounting point on the spindles for the front fenders broke on both sides. That is why I replaced the spindles. They were covered under the warrantee. The original tires on my scooter only lasted about 800-1000 miles also. I am on my second set now. I bought Michelin double compound tires. That are so much better than the original tires. I haven't had any issues with my fuel gauge yet. My scooter is also a 2012. That is pretty heavy stuff making your own bushings. If you get a chance, I would like to know your process. It may be in my future to make my own. Thanks The problem with my clutch was that the arm bumpers expanded from heat(I guess) to the point where they wouldn't allow the arms to retract as you came to a stop so she still wanted to spin that rear wheel even at idle. So that was wearing my clutch pads and overheating the clutch drum/cover too. Replaced bumpers with slightly smaller 0-rings and problem solved. I am still curious about your alignment. Do you not have any vibration when coming to a stop? I have found that not only do the front wheels need to be parallel to one another, but even more importantly they need to be parallel to the rear wheel. Your method of alignment does not appear to address this so the front wheels could be // or \\ when compared to the rear wheel. Also the best way to get the truest alignment is to have the suspension loaded with the normal amount of weight while driving. It seems like you're unloading the front suspension in your method. I too went to a Michelin tire in the rear and decided on a slightly wider tire. Just got it on the other day so haven't had a chance to try it out but it sure looks nice and the rubber just feels better than the old one. If you want to walk down the road of changing out the motor mount bushings check out my thread:(http://scooterdoc.proboards.com/post/70593/thread) and if you need more info shoot me a pm. Good ridin'! |
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Post by new2scootn on Mar 26, 2014 18:13:34 GMT -6
Hey cray,
Sorry I called you parsonsj11! I am the idiot-er I mean guy-who made that statement that I'm gonna make this thing reliable if it kills me... and it just might. What was the problem with your clutch that it had to be replaced? I just had to replace the arm bumpers in mine so I am curious. And I am very curious about your alignment tips. I recently aligned mine but if there's an easier way, I'm game. I am also curious about your "pivot pin" issue. Do you mean the motor mount? These things have serious problems with the motor mounts due to inferior rubber bushings in the mount. I recently re-engineered mine with all new urethane bushings and new steel sleeves-a lot of work but no more rear wheel wag from side to side. What year is yours? Mine is a 2012 and came with fairly decent front tires but a cheap Chinese rear tire that after only 800 miles of riding is bald on the center tread. And you had to replace the front spindles? Wow! What the heck happened to them? If you check out my threads you'll be able to see my "journey" this far. I've got her almost where she's safe/reliable but that flipping fuel gauge still only works when it wants to!
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Post by new2scootn on Mar 14, 2014 18:18:15 GMT -6
Hey parsonsj11! So you've got yourself a Roadrunner 300 huh? Here's the link to my thread where I posted the belt size and showed the transmission with the cover off. (http://scooterdoc.proboards.com/post/68224/thread). If you're absolutely sure you have all of the bolts removed then a few wacks with a mallet(as previously suggested) should do the trick. There is a paper gasket used and the glue will hold onto the cover a bit but she'll come off with a little persuasion. You do NOT have to remove the axle nut. Have fun and let me know how ya make out! scooterdoc.proboards.com/post/68224/thread |
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Post by new2scootn on Nov 28, 2013 11:47:52 GMT -6
Hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving and my thanks go out to everyone on this forum for all your help, advice, and insight.  |
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Post by new2scootn on Nov 19, 2013 19:24:52 GMT -6
Thanks KZ, that comment made me laugh out loud! ;D
And thanks Justin, and good to hear from ya. Happy for ya with the Burgy. Keep in touch. I'm sure my saga ain't over so stay tuned...(!)
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Post by new2scootn on Nov 18, 2013 13:59:25 GMT -6
Sure I'm sure it's a word... ;D Well I nailed the alignment first try thanks to mrpalmetto's diligent work and explanations. Got front wheels parallel to rear wheel and WOW! Couldn't believe it but vibration is GONE!!! No more "Death Shakes"! Just smooth brakin' from high speeds down to stop. And no high speed vibration. I can't believe I'm saying this about a Sunny MC_D300TKB reverse trike but it's true... at least today(LOL! Who knows what tomorrow will bring!) Now if I can just get the pesky fuel gauge to work consistently...(winter's comin'!)  |
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Post by new2scootn on Nov 18, 2013 1:34:12 GMT -6
 Got the RT back together today with the reengineered motor mount, fixed clutch with smaller "arm bumpers", and tried out my new contra spring. The first disappointment was the spring. Was expecting better acceleration on take off... didn't get it. Acceleration is better with the original spring so I put it back in. The second and even bigger disappointment is the fact that I still have the "death shakes" as slowing down and they're even worse. I was really thinkin' that getting rid of the rear wheel wag would solve this but since it didn't I am hoping that it's an alignment issue. Severe shakes start like clockwork as slowing down and hit 25 mph--go away if re-accelerate. I am gonna check the alignment tomorrow following the same procedure mrpalmetto used to get the front wheels parallel to the rear. Sure hope that's the ticket!
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Post by new2scootn on Nov 13, 2013 18:39:16 GMT -6
Good to hear from ya Daddue! I know just what you mean about motivation... especially after long days at work and when, like now, the temp is f-f-f-freezin'! I don't know how much you've been checking this forum, but it sounds like Justin is havin' way too much fun with his new Burgman. I'll post some more once I get this re-engineered motor mount back in the old gal.
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Got the RT back together today with the reengineered motor mount, fixed clutch with smaller "arm bumpers", and tried out my new contra spring. The first disappointment was the spring. Was expecting better acceleration on take off... didn't get it. Acceleration is better with the original spring so I put it back in. The second and even bigger disappointment is the fact that I still have the "death shakes" as slowing down and they're even worse. I was really thinkin' that getting rid of the rear wheel wag would solve this but since it didn't I am hoping that it's an alignment issue. Severe shakes start like clockwork as slowing down and hit 25 mph--go away if re-accelerate. I am gonna check the alignment tomorrow following the same procedure mrpalmetto used to get the front wheels parallel to the rear. Sure hope that's the ticket!