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I wouldnt go with anything more than a 1000 or a stock. 1500 is not real streetable. Weights will rattle.Get a brand name replacement so its somewhat consistent. There seems to be a range of stiffness in these things from make to make. I had 2 stock springs from factory scoots and one was softer than the other and both were new right from the factory clutch so NYC or Hoca brands tend to be better made and more consistent.

So is a scooter tach meant to be read the same way as a car tach?

In a car the powerband is not as important as it seems on these small 50s. Every tach Ive seen redlines at 8000 and my mustang at 6500 but i get plenty or power well below that 6500 rpm and wouldnt think of cruising at 6500 in a car but when it comes to a scooter theres a pretty big difference in performance acellerating and cruising at 6500 than there is at 8000, so is it ok to cruise at 7900?

So I saw another post where after a BBK install he had some roll on throttle sputter getting back on the throttle and lowering the needle helped. Ive been having this problem so i did a needle lower as well. Whats happened is the thing runs so much better! BUT the rpms have risen thru out the acelleration range. Instead of holding 7500 from start to crusing speed up to 35 it now reads 7800 and 8100 up to 35.

Why did this happen?

Ive tuned my weights to keep under 8000 and cruise at a comfortable speed. Now those rpms are a little high.

The question is if I can hold that 8000 rpm 35 mph at half throttle. Is there any difference running at 8000 and not doing it at WOT vs mashing the throttle and using the main jet to maintain cruising speed at those same rpms?

yes

Thats a pretty big peak in power between 7500-8000! Gota be a GY6