Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on Jun 29, 2011 14:56:13 GMT -6
Since the factory service manual for my E-Ton R4 lists max headlight draw as 50W I'm planning on trying this one: www.bulbs.com/eSpec.aspx?ID=10646&Ref=10V+-+19V&RefId=328That is after I fab-up an H4 socket/retainer... the experience I cited in my 1st post convinced me that the high watt BA20D's I bought are definitely not the way to go!
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on Jun 29, 2011 3:33:56 GMT -6
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on Jun 25, 2011 6:59:23 GMT -6
I want to upgrade the pitiful headlight on my E-Ton R4 but unfortunately it uses the cursed, plastic socket BA20D type! Over at the 'Dawg Pound' this is one guy's results upgrading one of those: scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=31985&page=1So I'm forced to figure a custom conversion to H4 type which I've yet to actually get to... still trying to finish reassembling the frame-up resto/restyle/upgrade job on the almost new (390 mi.) '07 Beamer. I asked my brother to remind me not to look at bikes that come from beach communities ever again!
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on Jun 12, 2011 14:08:44 GMT -6
Just for thought... what would your moon sound like in one of the Chinese dialects?
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 18, 2011 10:49:24 GMT -6
There's water on Mars, you know, maybe if we got some of that it would cool the scooter even better. That would work, it's real cold there isn't it?! ;D
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 18, 2011 10:32:29 GMT -6
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 17, 2011 10:36:13 GMT -6
I'm with Sprocket on this one, I've seen both done.
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 17, 2011 10:26:32 GMT -6
Simple physics suggests that the scoop moving through the air will create a vacuum at the fan... It is like blowing across a Coke bottle... Whether a scoop gets more air in or not, increases cooling capacity or no, despite whatever speed the fan might be turning remains up for debate... However simple physics suggests blowing across the rim of a Coke bottle is far more akin to the fan grill opening moving forward through still air without any scoop, not with one: air is moving across the opening, not directed into it.
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 11, 2011 16:41:35 GMT -6
The E-Ton service manual for my Beamer R4 150 lists a recommended valve lash setting of 0.07mm (0.0027"). Strikes me as kinda' tight from the reading here and elsewhere most references are for 0.004-0.005" (0.101 - 0.127"). I've also seen the 'corroborative' reference to 0.002 - 0.003" (0.0508 - 0.076mm) here: scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=engine&action=display&thread=140So I know loose valve tolerances will make a lot of clattering noise, but if things are too tight what symptoms would one look (listen?) for? Also, here's a time saving quick conversion table I found for anyone who could use it:
Conversions SAE to Metric: inch - mm .002 - .051 .003 - .076 .004 - .102 .005 - .127 .006 - .152 .008 - .203 .011 - .279 .012 - .305 .013 - .330 .014 - .356 .016 - .406 .018 - .457 .020 - .508 .022 - .559 .025 - .635
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 4, 2011 6:12:55 GMT -6
What is this... my multimeter is BIGGER than your multimeter? ;-) Must be multimeter envy! I think Hammerspur's is a little longer......HEY! WAIT A MINUTE! Now if I could just get someone to teach me how to use it... That's what they say, knowin' how to use it is what matters. (Had to do that myself before someone else did! ;D )
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 3, 2011 16:11:59 GMT -6
Well actually I am QUITE the technophile, here is my latest acquisition: I have one of them too... not that exact one, this'n here: Now if I could just get someone to teach me how to use it...
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 3, 2011 4:01:45 GMT -6
Scoops ...poops... they can actually decrease the fan flow...by causing a vacuum at the fan entrance... it is like blowing across a Coke bottle... Seems to me this would be more likely without a scoop since direction of airflow when moving blows across fan opening. (Now I'm on the fence about that too! ) In any event, I'm pretty certain removal of any grill/screen at the fan intake would be a very bad idea... rocks, sand in the dynamo, not good!
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 2, 2011 16:31:26 GMT -6
The purpose of that snorkel is to prevent carburator icing, by warming the fuel slightly...you can get icing in fairly warm temperatures (70 deg F) and it depends on the temperature and the dew point. It is not so much the ambient air temperature rather the temperature drop that occurs as the air flows through the venturi and jets... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburetor_heatI've seen the auto version many times, but never had anything like that on any of my motorcycles. Could be the sheltered location in which the carb resides on a full bodied scooter makes them more prone to this phenomenon. Thanks for the link! Maybe I'll leave the duct unmolested after all... maybe not? ;D
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 2, 2011 15:08:44 GMT -6
>>>The air scoops look cool other than that they're a joke. Thanks for this JR. Many aftermarket 'add-ons' are just smoke and mirrors. There's one considered option crossed off my list! Auxiliary to this fact ( hate to inspire paranoia here) if your shroud is not positioned correctly it will restrict in some areas and open up others for greater or lesser cooling. When I pulled the shroud from my removed engine the rubber coping seal between the halves (and the cylinder?... forget now) self-destructed... glued to one side in some places, the other half in others it pulled apart upon disassembly, dried/cured out, no elasticity to speak of. Plan to supplement it with high temp silicone, once I can figure out how/where that rubber jigsaw puzzle goes back together! By the way, EM, mine has one of those little snorkels pointing at the carb bowl. There is virtually no chance in Hades I'll be riding this thing in weather/temps where carb 'warming' will be of any purpose , so that'll be plugged off letting the fan do its work blowing all its air volume for the intended purpose... 'cooling.'
|
|
Senior Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Joined: Jan 3, 2011 10:10:57 GMT -6
|
Post by Hammerspur on May 1, 2011 17:01:29 GMT -6
I wonder if there is any empirical evidence that those 'air scoops' that fit over the fan intake are of benefit, and if so do they cause any hindrance to sucking in enough air when at rest/idle...?
Anybody know?
|
|