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Post by Hammerspur on Feb 8, 2012 17:26:25 GMT -6
WOW!
Work of art I'd say.
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Post by Hammerspur on Feb 3, 2012 5:25:04 GMT -6
That thing looks great, Sportster powered I believe.
The styling begs for left and right side dual exhaust with fishtail pipes!
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Post by Hammerspur on Dec 24, 2011 6:48:26 GMT -6
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Post by Hammerspur on Nov 4, 2011 3:19:55 GMT -6
Expensive?
No doubt but so are the alternatives in that performance envelope.
I'm not at all fond of big sleds like the Burgman but the thumbnail of this one sounds almost perfect to me!
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Post by Hammerspur on Oct 12, 2011 15:27:57 GMT -6
So the combination of steroids and meth you inject into your brainstem is what makes it possible for you to lift the scooter onto that.....er....table?  Rich Stopped doing that, gives me a headache.  Actually it wasn't all that hard. Laid the plywood on one crate ramp-like, rolled up and deployed the center stand and humped the back end up by the shocks while my wife slid the second crate into the desired position. Sure beats having to bend so far down. |
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Post by Hammerspur on Oct 12, 2011 10:37:10 GMT -6
Here's my POS... the table I mean!  |
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Deal Time
by: Hammerspur - Sept 30, 2011 7:39:38 GMT -6
Post by Hammerspur on Sept 30, 2011 7:39:38 GMT -6
 SPECIFICATIONS:Engine: Liquid cooled four-stroke single cylinder Displacement: 152cc Max Torque: 6.7 lb-ft @6500rpm Max Power: 10.8 hp @7500rpm Rated Power: 10.8 hp @7500rpm Lubrication: Automatic Spark Plug: NGK DPR7EAS Starter System: Electric Start Ignition System: CDI Fuel System: Electronic Fuel Injection Transmission: Automatic CVT Gasoline: 90 Octane Engine Oil: SAE 15W/40SF Overall Width: 28.1 in Overall Height: 47 in Overall Length: 76.8 in Dry Weight: 330 lbs Ground Clearance: 5.1 in Front Suspension: Hydraulic Telescopic Fork Rear Suspension: Dual Shock Front Brake: Hydraulic Disk, Hand Control Rear Brake: Hydraulic Disk, Hand Control Front Tire: 100/80-14 Rear Tire: 110/80-14 Top Speed: 65 mph (104 Km/h) Battery: Lead Acid 12V 9AH Max Load: 330 lbs Fuel Tank: 2.1 gal (8 liters) Seat Height 29.5''
Nice Styling, Liquid Cooled, 14" Wheels, EFI... $1595?!  Nothing wrong about that, IMO! |
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Post by Hammerspur on Sept 24, 2011 7:54:09 GMT -6
...hinge opening things like climbers use for their ropes... Carabiners?  |
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Post by Hammerspur on Sept 24, 2011 7:09:53 GMT -6
I believe a impact tool is far safer to use to remove stubborn nuts, you can actually twist and break things with just force alone. The issue involved here is not one of removing 'stubborn' fasteners, it's about loosening or tightening moderately torqued fasteners on rotating, non-fixed cylindrical parts... "How to hold them?"A great deal of force is not at all needed on these parts (around 40 ft. lbs. on mine), just a means to keep them stationary while wrenching. If I'm not mistaken an impact wrench does the job of loosening or tightening by turning the nut in short, fast knocks (impacts) which out speeds the rate at which the unfixed part can begin rotation due to its own inertia. people twist off car wheel studs every day that the nut was put on by an impact. those same nuts come right off with an impact. john This is done by service providers not for safety but expediency: faster work = more work per labor hour = more $$$.
I know this may be scoot culture HERESY but, IMO as a long time wrench turning tinkerer the use of an impact wrench for this purpose is an answer to a question no one asked... or should have asked maybe.  |
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Post by Hammerspur on Sept 23, 2011 8:23:38 GMT -6
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Post by Hammerspur on Sept 23, 2011 5:18:29 GMT -6
 That's a newer rendition of the original "Grab-It" motorcycle clutch tool sold in the 70's... can't remember by who, but someone who was a notable in two-wheeled innovation, etc. at the time. The spanner pins this one bears on the backside of its jaw arms is a nice touch, IMO.
This is what I use:  www.harborfreight.com/locking-chain-clamp-36813.html?hftref=cjWorks like a charm on variator or clutch, during removal or install and re-torque. |
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Post by Hammerspur on Aug 7, 2011 7:55:19 GMT -6
 WOW, that's a pretty good looker! How about it Cookees... Details?  |
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Post by Hammerspur on Jul 25, 2011 10:35:25 GMT -6
As I recall from many moons ago the best method to aim motorcycle (or scooter) headlights goes like this:
-- Have someone measure the distance with rider aboard from center of headlight to ground.
-- Make a mark with tape or ? on a perpendicular wall at that height.
-- Measure 20 feet away from wall and mark spot.
-- Drive straight and square at wall stopping at 20ft. mark
-- With rider's weight on machine, beams on high, adjust right/left aim to center on wall marking and up/down likewise... should put the low beam right where it's supposed to be.
Of course you'll need to locate the adjusters first.
In the case of my E-Ton R4 that would be adjus-'TER' as there is no provision for side to side, elevation only.
Guess that's to make sure one doesn't permanently damage the eyesight of oncoming drivers with that intense beacon of light produced! ;D
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Post by Hammerspur on Jul 6, 2011 4:19:09 GMT -6
Cool! Hanks is a smart successful guy and no doubt has a good grasp of obvious pragmatics. As to d-bag commentary, you can readily find that everywhere, about all manner of things. Been riding cycles for over 40 years... some motorcyclists don't seem to understand (feel?) the scooter 'thing'.I'm instinctively drawn to anything with 2 tandem wheels and an internal combustion engine... Seems to me otherwise you've missed the whole point.  |
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Post by Hammerspur on Jul 4, 2011 7:26:38 GMT -6
The radiator and lines seem nice, quality looking stuff. But from the pic I'm confused as He !! as to specifics and fitment!  |
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Rich
