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Post by runningslow on Oct 16, 2010 17:18:44 GMT -6
That carb is exactly the same as the one on my Lifan. I think it is a Keihin copy. On thing, check the nipple on the de-accelerator of the right side of the carb. Mine was not drilled out!!! It takes a 1/64 drill or finer drill... It made a difference in the way the bike runs with it opened up.... Hmm... care to elaborate?  |
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Post by runningslow on Oct 16, 2010 20:14:48 GMT -6
So, today I adjusted the valves. Easier than I expected to be.  I also got my new braided brake hose installed. I'll have to spend some more time bleeding it, because I got way too much air in the line. Anyone have a trick for bleeding brakes? I bled the front brakes, too, and I've deemed that I need to replace the front brake pads, too. So, I've got those on order and I'll be waiting to ride again until they come. |
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Post by sprocket on Oct 17, 2010 14:42:46 GMT -6
This valve leans the fuel when you de-accelerate the engine... Mine was not drilled all the way through. It is worth checking cause it could result in using more fuel or backfiring in some cases... Attachments:
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Post by runningslow on Oct 17, 2010 16:50:21 GMT -6
This valve leans the fuel when you de-accelerate the engine... Mine was not drilled all the way through. It is worth checking cause it could result in using more fuel or backfiring in some cases... Thanks, I'll check that out. |
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Post by runningslow on Oct 18, 2010 6:49:35 GMT -6
Ok... I am PISSED (at myself)  I had been so careful about getting brake fluid on the plastics... but I did something stupid when I was removing the front brake pads. I had left the cover off the master cylinder reservoir, so when I compressed the pistons, brake fluid went flying all over the black plastics. I tried to wash it off immediately, but it was too late. The fluid appeared to actually BLEACH the plastic. I have these horrible white streaks all through the handlebar plastic! I don't have any pics at the moment, but I'll take some later. I guess I have a couple options.... I can try painting it with some vinyl/plastic paint, or I could go with naked handlebars. The only problem I see with naked bars is that I really like my gauge cluster. I'd have to work out a way to keep them, or learn to live without them. |
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Post by Cruiser on Oct 18, 2010 10:01:11 GMT -6
Sorry to hear about your boo-boo Josh. I have a feeling that you will have a problem refinishing the plastic after being hit with the brake fluid. I don't think it can be cleaned enough for paint to stick to it.  |
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Post by runningslow on Oct 18, 2010 10:25:16 GMT -6
Sorry to hear about your boo-boo Josh. I have a feeling that you will have a problem refinishing the plastic after being hit with the brake fluid. I don't think it can be cleaned enough for paint to stick to it. Yeah, we'll see. I think I'm going to try the paint first, then I'll look into going naked.  Maybe I could make a custom housing for my gauges out of fiberglass? |
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Post by runningslow on Oct 18, 2010 10:42:56 GMT -6
The strangest part... the brake fluid got on other pieces of the black plastic and it didn't leave a mark on them?? Only on the handlebar plastic. I'm wondering if it was just a slightly different plastic composition??  |
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Post by sprocket on Oct 18, 2010 14:10:38 GMT -6
They are different plastics...the black plastic on all scooters is Polyethylene and gas or brake fluid has no immediate effect on it...
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Post by runningslow on Oct 18, 2010 14:14:32 GMT -6
They are different plastics...the black plastic on all scooters is Polyethylene and gas or brake fluid has no immediate effect on it... Good to know! However, the bleached plastic in question is also some of the black plastic though. It would appear to be the same stuff... I'll take a picture when I get home. |
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Post by jake aka:ventoscoot on Oct 18, 2010 22:47:37 GMT -6
damn dude, remeind me to never go to Vegas with you, at least not to gamble. can you find replacement plactic on partsforscooters.com or another site?
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Post by runningslow on Oct 19, 2010 7:13:40 GMT -6
damn dude, remeind me to never go to Vegas with you, at least not to gamble. can you find replacement plactic on partsforscooters.com or another site? Not for my scoot.... at least not there. The styling of the Matrix II is unique, at least in the US, so I can't use alot of generic body parts. There is one place that I've found that is selling OEM UM parts... some of them are extremely overpriced (like over $700 for the gauge cluster), while others are reasonable. Actually, that piece isn't bad... only $18. I've never ordered from them, but I may have to give it a shot. Anyone ever hear of or do business with: www.alpha-sports.com/? |
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Post by ccprof on Oct 19, 2010 7:40:03 GMT -6
Some of the guys over on Scootdawg ordered UM parts from Alpha. Prices were high and often changed. West 60 Cycles WAS carrying parts for UM's last month but I see they're no longer listed on the website. Same problem there - prices were frequently a lot higher. Check out the "My United Motors Xpeed 250 experience" thread in the 250 section.
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Post by dannicus on Oct 19, 2010 8:07:16 GMT -6
Ok... I am PISSED (at myself) I had been so careful about getting brake fluid on the plastics... but I did something stupid when I was removing the front brake pads. I had left the cover off the master cylinder reservoir, so when I compressed the pistons, brake fluid went flying all over the black plastics. I tried to wash it off immediately, but it was too late. The fluid appeared to actually BLEACH the plastic. I have these horrible white streaks all through the handlebar plastic! I don't have any pics at the moment, but I'll take some later. I guess I have a couple options.... I can try painting it with some vinyl/plastic paint, or I could go with naked handlebars. The only problem I see with naked bars is that I really like my gauge cluster. I'd have to work out a way to keep them, or learn to live without them. Try Mirror Glaze Plastic Cleaner (not polish). It works wonders, it's not supposed to be abrasive, but it does noticeably remove material. That's what you want, tho, since that brake fluid damaged the finish. I'm very picky about what products I apply to my plastics, especially black finished ones. Mirror Glaze is good stuff.  When you bleed the brakes, a good practice is to work quickly and deliberately. -Top up the reservoir and put the lid on it to prevent splashes. Hold the wrench on the nipple with one hand, -apply good firm pressure to the lever with the nipple closed and then quickly crack and then lightly close the nipple. -Release the lever and repeat. Do this quickly while keeping an eye on the fluid level in the master cyl window. Once all the bubbles stop coming out, thump the lines all over to make sure no bubbles are hanging on. After that, I'll push about half of the volume of the res through the system for good measure. Seems like alot to do, but it all takes less than 5-7 minutes when you get it down.  The firm pressure on the lever squeezes any bubbles down to a smaller size so they rise slower in vertical lines and are more easily swept through the system. Some will say you should get a bleeder, but with this technique you can completely replace and thoroughly bleed the front and back systems in under 15 minutes with practice. |
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Post by runningslow on Oct 21, 2010 6:37:04 GMT -6
Try Mirror Glaze Plastic Cleaner (not polish). It works wonders, it's not supposed to be abrasive, but it does noticeably remove material. That's what you want, tho, since that brake fluid damaged the finish. I'm very picky about what products I apply to my plastics, especially black finished ones. Mirror Glaze is good stuff. I think I'm going to try that first! I've tried scrubbing at the marks, and they don't really seem to come off, but if I take my fingernail, I can scrap a little away... so if that stuff will remove some material, it just might work. And if it doesn't, I should at least have a nice clean surface to try painting. Is this the stuff you're talking about? meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+M1708Sorry, the about the quality, but here are some pics of the damage in question:   |
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