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Post by Cruiser on Feb 9, 2011 19:55:59 GMT -6
I think that your speedometer and odometer work off a cable which is connected to the front wheel down near the axle. Looks like this: www.iscooterparts.com/store/p/473-Instrument-Speedometer-Cable-TLX.htmlThe cable setup does not use the battery to operate. Alleyoop's advice about the fuel level sending unit is good and should give you an idea about how well it works. |
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Post by Cruiser on Feb 7, 2011 22:44:55 GMT -6
The voltage on both the 8 and 11 pole stators is most likely the same. What is different is the amount of total power or current which would be higher for the 11 pole stators.
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Post by Cruiser on Feb 7, 2011 22:31:43 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, neally. The symptoms sound very much like tight valves. However, the easiest way to adjust the valves is with the engine running.
How did you determine that the fuel pump was OK? Did you actually see gas coming out of the fuel line when disconnected at the carburetor while cranking the engine with the starter? If it starts with starting fluid, then it sounds like a fuel delivery or automatic choke problem. By default the choke (enricher) is in the full choke position when it is cold and will remain that way even if it is broken or there is no power being supplied to it. If everything else is OK, the motor should start and keep running but eventually will show signs of a rich mixture. If the enricher is stuck in the extended position or the no choke position, then you will have trouble starting. This would be unusual with 2 different carburetors.
Since it starts with starting fluid, I would think you have fuel delivery problems especially since 2 different carbs will not work. The OEM fuel pumps are not the best in quality and you should have nothing but the best quality vacuum lines cut to the shortest length to optimize the vacuum pulses which is how these pumps work. Let us know how you determined that the fuel pump was OK. It could be just a leaking vacuum line for the fuel pump.
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Post by Cruiser on Feb 6, 2011 1:40:45 GMT -6
Alleyoop is right. Disconnecting the auto enricher will result in a choke on condition and it will be running rich all the time. The auto enricher should be connected to one of the output wires of the stator (usually yellow) with the other wire going to ground. Works real well on a properly adjusted carburetor.
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Post by Cruiser on Feb 5, 2011 18:47:46 GMT -6
The original rollers are usually 24 grams. A good slider replacement would be 19 grams. They act like 21 or 22 grams for top end so you should not lose any speed and you will gain acceleration and hill climbing speed because of the lighter actual weight.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 31, 2011 1:06:17 GMT -6
Many of our preferred vendors have the electric enricher. For instance, Scrappydog scooters has it for $15 under common scooter parts. It will be very hard to start your scoot without the choking function. Your battery sounds like it isn't too bad if it cranks the engine for up to a minute. However, cranking the starter for more than a few seconds at a time can overheat and damage it. 90 cold start amps is about right for the OEM batteries when they are in good shape. Most replacement batteries will run around 100 to 120 cca so your battery has some life in it. Most people prefer carb cleaner spray as a starter fluid in order to prevent damage to the internal parts of the carburetor.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 30, 2011 21:31:24 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 30, 2011 0:09:42 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, Laurent. Part number 21 (2 Items) are the motor mount bolts which would be located on top of the motor. You should be able to see one directly above the variator and above the oil fill on the other side of the engine. Let us know how you do with this problem.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 29, 2011 15:22:34 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, audionut74. That is a sweet looking scoot. We'll be looking forward to more input on your mods and updates.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 26, 2011 21:53:19 GMT -6
OEM roller weights require about 1 ounce of grease distributed on the ramp plates inside the variator. In this case, it's a good idea to keep the cover on to contain any grease that may fly out of the ramp plate. It's also a good idea to keep the cover on for a grease free operation like with sliders. This will protect the sliders from dirt and moisture.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 26, 2011 21:18:04 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 26, 2011 21:08:37 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 26, 2011 20:51:31 GMT -6
I use 19 gram Dr. Pulley sliders which give an excellent result in my 244cc engine. There is no rattling noise or any other indication that there is a different from stock variator weight installed. The three U shaped inserts should also be replaced with Dr. Pulley units when installing the new weights.
19 gram sliders give better acceleration and hill climbing while still retaining top speed.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 26, 2011 20:33:16 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum. The 244cc is loaded with grease in the variator with the OEM roller weights. Most people scoop out the extra grease in order to keep it from messing up the CVT belt. A small amount of grease on each roller is OK in order to facilitate reassembly so that the rollers will stay in place until everything is buttoned up. No grease is necessary if you have Dr Pulley sliders.
The OEM belt on my 244cc engine is a Gates Powerlink 918x22.5x30. The OEM weights are 23 x 18 at 24 grams. There should be no reason why Redstreak would have a problem with these belts unless they used a generic of lessor quality.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 21, 2011 21:13:52 GMT -6
Alleyoop has some good advice. The only other way to have a leak would be the head gasket. This would allow antifreeze to get into the combustion chamber which might be burned off if the leak is small enough. You might also want to check your oil level to make sure the leak is not getting into the crankcase. Head gasket leaks generally show up as hard starting or even hydro lock due to water collecting in the combustion chamber when the engine is shut down.
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