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250 roketa
by: Cruiser - Jan 21, 2011 20:41:22 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Jan 21, 2011 20:41:22 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, graybeard19. You definitely have an electrical issue. One good thing is that the scoot is operational so it probably isn't a short circuit in the wiring. Do all your lights and other electrical accessories work correctly? Sometimes the alarm system will draw down the battery excessively. Many people disconnect the alarm system because of this. You might want to start your own thread on this problem to give maximum exposure to other members and get the most help. l'm sure we can get this fixed. Again, welcome to the forum.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 18, 2011 23:14:19 GMT -6
The Lance 250 uses a starter clutch instead of a solenoid. Here is an excerpt from the Helix manual showing the internals of the starter system. mpsracing.net/helix-manual/10-00.htmlThis chapter will show you how to get into this area to check out the starter system. |
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 18, 2011 22:37:45 GMT -6
As for as I know, the Legacy does not have a fuel pump but it does have a vacuum fuel petcock similar to the 50cc and 150cc scoots with the fuel tank mounted higher than the engine. As Dr. JR said, a vacuum leak on the line between the intake manifold and the petcock will stop the flow of gas. How many miles on your bike? Make sure that the fuel filter is not blocked.
Oop has a good point on the fuel enricher not operating which would also cause hard starting.
Is the starter still spinning the engine over OK? A well charged battery is necessary for proper starting. Welcome to the forum. I'm sure we will get you on the road again.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 18, 2011 21:53:10 GMT -6
Most 250cc scoots use DC for the headlights. Using the flash to pass button turns on the high beams. Running both high and low beams will eventually discharge the battery if used long enough. Not a bad idea for occasional use in bad lighting conditions.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 17, 2011 1:17:32 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 15, 2011 15:31:48 GMT -6
Congratulations to Sue on her new Peg. It sure is a beauty. I wouldn't worry too much about that pesky plaque. I hear that Crest or Colgate Total is very good in controlling this problem.
;D
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lost power
by: Cruiser - Jan 12, 2011 18:37:21 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Jan 12, 2011 18:37:21 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 12, 2011 13:21:11 GMT -6
Congratulations on fixing your problem, Mike. If your 14 gram weights are still good, you might want to replace half of the 12.5 gram weights with the 14 grams to get an average weight of 13.25 grams. Just make sure to alternate the 14 and 12.5 weights around the variator to maintain balance. This will give you a result very close to all 13.5 gram weights.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 11, 2011 19:15:35 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, Jim. You're right about rewiring to install the H4 style halogen bulb in place of the OEM bulb. Just have to be careful when installing 55W halogens because they run hotter than the originals and the lens and/or reflector may distort from the heat. The H4 bulbs fit the headlights with no problem otherwise.
This is a popular upgrade with 54B and other 250cc scoot owners. The initial firing of the ballast is no problem for the stator as the battery takes up the surge with no problem.
How about posting in the new members section and letting us know a little about yourself? Again, welcome.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 9, 2011 20:55:03 GMT -6
My 244cc came with the 23 X 18 mm weights. They were 24 grams each and I went with 19 gram sliders with excellent results. Better acceleration and hill climbing and no lose of top end.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 8, 2011 21:01:19 GMT -6
The access to the taillights is through the back of the underseat compartment. There is a door with plastic push pins on the back wall. Pull out the push pins, remove the door, and you will have a full view of the taillight sockets. My YY250T uses the push pins instead of the bolts as shown in Dr JR's picture.
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Post by Cruiser on Jan 6, 2011 21:22:24 GMT -6
Blocking off the vacuum line at the manifold should cause no problems.
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CF Moto V5
by: Cruiser - Jan 1, 2011 0:49:11 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Jan 1, 2011 0:49:11 GMT -6
I think that Luke is right. It looks like a water temp sensor for the guage on the dash. I'm using a fuel filter for a Briggs and Straton engine with good results on my YY250T.
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Post by Cruiser on Dec 30, 2010 14:29:12 GMT -6
My pump was a one time buy for $26. Here is a link to the equivalent pump: www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-42SFuel pump problems usually show at high speeds in the form of fuel starvation. If a fuel pump is bad enough to mess up the idle, you won't be able to drive down the street because more fuel is needed to drive. The problem you described sounds like a sticking needle valve. This usually happens after driving for a period of time at full throttle or nearly full throttle. The needle valve remains in the open throttle position when you slow to a stop and this will usually stall out the scoot. Sometimes the needle valve will slide back down by itself from engine vibrations and sometimes you have to tap on the circular dome cover on top of the carburetor to get it to slide down. |
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Post by Cruiser on Dec 29, 2010 19:48:01 GMT -6
To tell the truth, I didn't realize that the OEM vacuum pumps failed that often. I know that the Mikuni is a better performing pump and can be rebuilt for only a few bucks. I went with an electric on my YY250T to ensure reliable high speed performance and also to eliminate the need to prime the carburetor manually if you ever need to drain it for maintenance or tuning. The vacuum lines for the 244cc engine are a little long which also takes away from the fuel pump performance. Here's a couple of pictures of my electric pump setup:   One of the things to remember is to mount the pump lower than the tank and angle the output up at about 45 degrees. |
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