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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 31, 2015 17:17:59 GMT -6
Fresh air to intake under seat bad fumes come out tail pipe I don't see what you are worrying about? Worried about the pvc pipe getting hot enough to gas, like it would in a car. I just don't think the stock airbox provides enough flow. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 31, 2015 14:26:23 GMT -6
The intake is under the seat, and I know in the car world people have used pvc pipe as a cai, now the bad thing is under the hood of the car, the heat makes pvc release nasty fumes, wondering if I would have that same problem with my scooter. I want to find a pipe that will slip inside the intake runner, and mount to the bracket that is used for the brake line guide.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 31, 2015 14:01:47 GMT -6
Okay, so I slowly turned the screw while letting it crank until it ran, and if the wheel started spinning, I backed it off little by little until it died, then adjusted the cable housing at the throttle, and redid step one. Turned it off, and restarted it. When it stared back up, the wheel spun, and I backed it off some more. Turned it off, and started it again, and now it idles without excessive rpms, or dying. Then I revved it, and it held rpm to spin the wheel, backed it off a little more down to idle, and- as I belive it always did; revved up some to spin the wheel, and then lowerd back to idle. I think I got it proper, now. Will come back after a drive.
If it wasn't for this site, I don't know what I would do with this thing. And since I had it open, I adjusted the seat latch, I kept having to bang it leftward to unstick, and open it.
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by: jaxrhapsody - Oct 31, 2015 13:20:32 GMT -6
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 31, 2015 13:20:32 GMT -6
Good. The battery I recommended to you has these dimensions: L: 5.94” W: 3.42” H: 3.74” So it should fit perfectly. The one I recommend has 7 amps but does not mention cold cranking amps. I would buy it if I were you, but Alleyoop might recommend a different battery. Plus, you live in Florida, so you will need fewer cold cranking amps than people in other states. Also notice that that your small battery has the red wire on the right. The new battery will need the red wire on the left, and it looks like your red wire will have enough slack to do so. The battery I recommended claims to be fully charged, so you may not need to trickle charge it. www.ebay.com/itm/FirstPower-FPM7-12B-for-Yuasa-YUAM32X7A-YTX7A-BS-BATTERY-/291589228591?hash=item43e412882f:g:-S8AAOSw14xWHWSS&rmvSB=true&rmvSB=trueShe won't need a high cca battery, but generally the more cca one has, the more power it'll give, and the cca is how much discharge it can handle when you engage the starter, since that's what draw the most power in the fewest amount of time on a stock vehicle. As small a motor a gy6 is, with a high cca, it would damn near just need a bumpstart to run. |
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by: jaxrhapsody - Oct 31, 2015 13:12:56 GMT -6
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 31, 2015 13:12:56 GMT -6
Okay continuing from my oil thread, trying to keep everything in one place for less confusion! I got the new spark plug in. Here's what happened: The bike would fire up, give one puff of air, then die... nothing new for me really; sometimes it just needs a little gas for the first second or 2. It hasn't needed that lately so I kept trying without gas. After 3 times of "start, puff, dead," the starter kept locking up like it used to (I'll explain the sound it makes below). After like 10 tries of that, it finally unstuck, and I gave it a little gas to help it stay running and from there everything has been fine so far. I did a test ride, everything was flawless. But why was it so hard to start the first time, is that normal after a spark plug change? Or possibly my battery is just dying or too weak and small? (4 amp hour battery)... the battery was sounding half dead after all this. Without any sound samples I'll try to explain the sound the starter makes when it "locks up"... just imagine if you had a tool to lock the starter gear and hit the button to start it... it would move a couple centimeters but then is stuck... then let go of the button and it moves back a couple cm. That's exactly what it seems like happens. I'll get a video sample of this some day when it happens again. I had gotten myself a motorcyle battery- duralast, because the batt it came with started to go dead in a week. It was a little too tall, so I had to trim those little post on the cover down some, and stuck pieces of packaging box in as a wedge, so it wouldn't bounce around. You want a good motorcycle/atv battery, if it push a vtwin, it'll push your 150. Mine was about 60$, a battery is one thing I don't try to cheap out on. |
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LED Lighting
by: jaxrhapsody - Oct 28, 2015 12:34:54 GMT -6
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 28, 2015 12:34:54 GMT -6
i saw those when I found the black one. The black one has a fan in the back. That's why I was thinking of using a projector for it. |
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LED Lighting
by: jaxrhapsody - Oct 28, 2015 3:36:00 GMT -6
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 28, 2015 3:36:00 GMT -6
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 27, 2015 1:55:41 GMT -6
All the reason I'm leaving my engine alone, sans intake, and exhaust. Unless I win the free cad/haas session lottery, and can have custom built engine, and case.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 27, 2015 1:26:17 GMT -6
Sounds like the throttle cable is allowing the butterfly to close all the way. The throttle cable at the handlebar SHOULD have at least 1/8-1/4 free play before it actually pulls on the cable and opens the butterfly in the carb. So do this On the Carb by the Throttle cable side you will see a SCREW with a spring under it Turn that clockwise about 1/8 and see if that keeps it idling without throttle. That screw is your IDLE SPEED SCREW all that does is open the butterfly just like the the throttle cable does when you twist it. Alleyoop This is a 24mm carb but all carbs have an IDLE SPEED SCREW to raise or lower the idle and what they do is just open the butterfly a litte more to allow more fuel to be sucked in.  Yeah, I was thinking that maybe the throttle is letting the carb close all the way, if I barely hold it, I can tell it's at idle rpm, there seems to be too much play. What happened to its orginal throttle, was it had fell over, and the top of the assembly had broken off, leaving it loose enough to slide off the bar, if I wasn't carefull. I bought a new one from the Motorcycle Superstore. I may wait until I can get a scooter throttle, that has proper rest, I think I trimmed to much of the cable guide, either that(since motorcycle grip options are pretty neat), or maybe stick a small spacer in there, but idle adjust will probably negate that. Sorry I didn't post in this section, I didn't think it was specific enough. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 26, 2015 12:03:01 GMT -6
It doesn't matter what kinda phone it is, I'm sure back in the day, it was phones, pagers, and two ways. People don't understand driving, expecting the car to do all the work. All those superfluous blindspot alerts, backup cameras, and sonar crap, don't mean crap if the driver is wrapped up in anything that isn't driving.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 26, 2015 11:35:28 GMT -6
Damn, a guy could easily spend a couple thousand on a big gy6 making 2 times as much power as it was originally designed for. Same guy could get a pretty dang nice used motorcycle for that kind of money. And expect it to last at least long enough to get it paid for! Don't get me wrong, I like to mess with scooters too, but spending thousands on one only to get beat at a stop light with a 25 year old suz 400 that cost $475 on craigs list that will still be running long after the big gy6 pukes gobs of broken parts on the sidewalk isn't my kind of a good deal. True, but its a different class of motorbike. I don't see why anybody would be wanting to race a motorcycle with a scooter, unless it was a Grom, or something. It's about working within the limitations. It's like why fix up that foxbody with a built 5.0 stroker, and a cobra irs, when you can buy a new v6 mustang and have a much better car, well, because. Some one wants to build up a scooter, and blow the engine, well engines can be gotten cheap. Why own a scooter if a motorcycle is better? Mopeders spend time with 70&80cc stroker kits, tiny drum brakes, and sometimes try and make twin variation work, all that when they can just buy a scooter? There are people that trick out gopeds, even running them off nitro, well a moped is a step above that. It's a hobby- modding things to drive, or ride, there are better things higher on the food chain, scooters to mopeds, sports cars to muscle cars, hyper cars to sports cars. Tbey all exist for a reason. I just want to build an awesome scooter, and worry about even a honda rebel would be a better alternative to almost any scooter. I still wany a moped, because it's about the scene. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 26, 2015 11:03:23 GMT -6
I don't know if its a cold issue, or a throttle issue; it started having starti g issues when the throttle got damaged from falling over, it was hard to start, and keep running. I replaced the throttle with a motorcyle throttle(for the metal housing), trimmed back the cable guide, so the the carb actually closes at reast, since scooters have less pull, and now it's even harder to start. It'll crank, and crank without blipping the throttle, and acts like the choke isn't working. Once it does start, it'll die if I don't keep blipping the throttle.
I want to just get another scooter throttle, and see if that fixes the problem. It's infuriating to no end, that it won't just start, and stay running like it did before it fell over. I've even sat for couple.of minutes with it running with it just over idle, and it still dies when it idles down. Maybe the carb needs adjusting.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 10, 2015 22:36:44 GMT -6
From what you are saying, to get it the 150cc to where you want with the parts you would be better off IMO selling the 150 and getting a 250cc. Now a 250cc comes with all disc brakes and will pull you and yours with no problems up to 65+mph if needed stock and up and down hills. It is also a little bigger so you both would have more room. Just my 2 cents, EfI's are not cheap and are not plug and play. Alleyoop nah...those things handle like crap, I like the 150 chassis. Eventually she'll get her own. I don't need more displacement. It's like before I sold my mustang, I was keeping the 2.3 in it. It actually moves pretty good, 0-35 alone is about 20sec, with her it's almost a full minute, suffer on hills greater than a 6% grade. In fact we outran a wrangler on a hilly road we frequent, that was wanting to race. You're right on the efi, even megasquirt isn't plug n play. |
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Bolt Size
by: jaxrhapsody - Oct 5, 2015 23:21:31 GMT -6
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 5, 2015 23:21:31 GMT -6
Can anyone tell me the bolt size I'm missing here? Please. It's from a 150cc. Thanks. Mike  From my experience, taking mine apart, all the bolts are in even millimeters, 4, 8,10, et cetera, and I recall that missing bolt is a 14mm, if that is the exhaust side swingarm. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 5, 2015 23:14:23 GMT -6
jax, from which online store did you buy your scooter? do you recommend them? Okay, they can be cheaper online, straight from the distributor, the slashed price is what you'd pay about at a motorsports store(or garage), your bikes uses the basic 150 chassis like mine does, so online it's cheaper to buy, but you have to wait, then somewhat put it together. You'll see your bike is over a grand locally, yet 899, from the site, so again; you aren't just saving a butt load of duckets feom buying it new somewhere, but still saving money, plus what's mentioned above for a barelly used bike- which is probably a savings equal to, or more than online. It's a steal of a price for a whole bike, that runs. www.extremescooters.biz/roketa-mc-75-150cc-scooter.aspx |
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