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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 5, 2015 23:01:01 GMT -6
jax, from which online store did you buy your scooter? do you recommend them? I didn't buy mine online, I was just comparing prices, my bike from one site was 200$ more at the dealer, my point; if you can get a 150 for well under a grand, that is decent- it's a steal, take it. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 5, 2015 22:55:55 GMT -6
If it was a dual headlight system where there was a single low, and a single hi, I would've just got some dual filament bulbs, and a slight rewire. You could probably run up to a 10ga at the lights. Battery, and stator, I'd use a 8 or 6 guage, which would probably need a bigger fuse. You could probably run a relay, or two, and take the load off the switch itself. I'm also considering switching my fuse with a breaker, they may not ever blow, or very rarely blow, but whatever. Electricity better flows on larger wire, it doesn't actually flow through the wires, but the surfaces of them. It would put ease and the stator, and battery, as there is less electrical resistance.
Nice looking bike, I wish I could fit 16s on my bike, at least on the back, seems like a really upright style bike, though, yet looks like it corners real good.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 5, 2015 22:04:46 GMT -6
Let me ask WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR out of your scooter? My Trike in the picture below is a 150 Trike it has the 157QMJ motor which is bored out to 182cc's from 149.6ccs. I run a 115mm Performance Variator with 12 Gram Dr. Pulley weights, The springs are OEM I do not like stronger springs and Here is why: Stronger Springs like we have been talking about require HIGHER RPMS for anything to happen. With stock my TRIKE which is heavy by the way 350 lbs plus my 180 starts to move at 2300-2500 rpms which is great. 7-9gram weights ARE FOR 50cc's, I will tell you the 150s run the best with 11-13 gram weights. The Red line ois 8000 rpms on these motors and thest motors make their max horsepower around 7500rpms. But if you do not have a tach you realy do not know what the heck the motor is doing or if you can improve on something to make it better. Yeah, I'm not changing the stock springs. Just looking for a little more lowend, since I carry my fiance often. She weighs 180, and I weigh 220. I want the clutch to engage asap, so if I could find lighter springs- sweet. From there a set of sliders that work well with either a blue, or red contra spring, it's only real steep hills it struggles with, and I basically want it to perform with two people, as it does with just me. I don't want to do any engine work, I think tye bike is powerful enough, I am going to be moding the intake, though. All I want now is suspension, and cvt tuning. I'm hoping to eventually find another drivetrain that has a disc brake(not trusting the performance brake drums with mire than 9hp) to do a complete build, thinking of efi, and possibly a 2step system, but I'm rambling. Slightly faster shifting with the sliders, and contraspring, better than stock clutch- faster engaging clutch, better shifting, little loss of rpms, then a gear ratio change to bump up top speed. Mmmm 2step system, flame shooting scooter. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 5, 2015 21:27:02 GMT -6
I'd say it's a deal, when they usually go a little over a grand, and oddly some china150s cost more than others. My Quantum was 1200, but I've seen the one that looks like a Scarabeo, with 16" wheels, and it was about 2200, and that was the online order price.
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 5, 2015 21:18:38 GMT -6
The spark was replaced half a year ago I would check it anyway, sparkplugs for scooters can foul in six months. I'd also check the fuel related things; filter, pump, etc. I'm having a similar issue, but mine is more like dying at idle, probably needs the carb adjusted. I'd also check the stator. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 5, 2015 21:13:24 GMT -6
I read on another board that this was originally an electric drive vehicle with a gas engine to generate the electricity. Sweet..cause I've been designing a gas/electric RT for two years now...the chevy volt all over again... |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 3, 2015 14:28:15 GMT -6
Heavier weights shift faster BUT you will loose rpms. Lighter weights shift slower BUT you gain rpms. Rollers for every gram up or down the rpms change by 500-600 Sliders for every gram up or down the rpms change by 200-350 That is why a TACH is very important to tune your motor and cvt for the best performance otherwise you are guessing on what you need and buying stuff you don't need or that makes things worse. AND YES STRONGER SPRINGS are like a car with a clutch put the clutch in and get the rpms up and then pop the clutch and away you go and or like a stall torque converter on a drag car. I've been trying to find the most precise info on cvt tuning. From what I can tell, the roller/slider wieghts are in the front variator, and the rear variator uses the contra spring, and when you change that, the wieghts should be changed as well for best results. So far; I really need to look up what all that is, in a gy6 150case, most of what I've read is from people tuning 50s, so I expect I could probably use either a red or blue contra spring, seems the blue doesn't effect top speed too much, and probably need between 7-9gr sliders. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 3, 2015 7:09:15 GMT -6
I thought 1500 springs woule be weaker than stock, thus would take less rpm to engage. OEM SPRINGS are WEAKER they are rated 700-800 All your performance springs are 1000,1500,2000, that also applies to the CONTRA Spring. Oh, okay, see I thought[for some reason] that the oem springs were rated at a higher rpm, because how slow they can appewr to accelerate. Now that I know the truth, I have to ask; what the benefit of higher rpm clutch springs, kinda like a high stall torque convertor for a drag car? This changes my cvt plan by some margin. Maybe I should just focus on the weights to get it to shift faster, get better clutches, and transfer my stock springs. So I'm guessing heavier rollernweights makes the cvt shift faster as well? Sorry for kinda taking over the thread, OP, things about the cvt are not what I thought they were. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 1, 2015 19:26:06 GMT -6
I do not understand your question? Stronger springs REQUIRE HIGHER RPMS for the pads top engage the BELL. Don't forget it is CENTRIFUGAL FORCE that throws the PADS out to grab the bell which in turn turns your wheel. So the CLUTCH PULLEY has to turn faster which means HIGHER RPMS. I thought 1500 springs woule be weaker than stock, thus would take less rpm to engage. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 1, 2015 19:00:26 GMT -6
So on my Jonway yy150t-12 I just did my oil change, (once @ 50mi, 250mi, 500mi) and did the adjustments for the brakes and valves. I'm not complaining but do the 150's actually have that much power to smoke the rear tire? Especially with my 220# on it. I pulled out of my driveway ant it just wanted to GO! I couldn't tell ya, I know mine won't and I've tried. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 1, 2015 3:03:38 GMT -6
Hi Mr. Oop! So going from OEM to 18/36 would be changing from 3.08-1 to a 2-1 ratio ..... is that right? And your 16/37 is 2.31 ... right? I was not unhappy with off-the-line performance before with the small engine - I suppose because of the steep gear ratio. But I'm not looking for more there ..... hope to have better high speed hill climbing and top end. Would you recommend 16 or 18? EDIT Now I'm REALLY confused. I get there is probably a "best guess best rear ratio" for the bike, engine and me. But in scanning the available gear sets it seems there is a lot of overlap in what ratio you can achieve (eg: 14/37, 16/42 and 18/48 all result in about the same ratio). Is there an advantage with going with a smaller (or larger) counter shaft gear???  From what I can see is the smaller gear is like the pinion gear, and the larger gear is like the ring gear if we were looking at a shaft driven car type axle, but if you kinda apply a little bicycle dynamics, the smaller gear is like the crank that you pedal. Don't worry about what is available, persay. It's not that cut and dry, you can get a few, and mix and match gears to your liking, say a 16/48. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 1, 2015 2:53:28 GMT -6
I cannot say one way or the other but the counter shaft gear is the one that is turned by the BELL so If SMALLER it would have to spin faster to turn the Final Drive gear more times which then turns your wheel. So I see it as SMALLER Requires more RPMS and BIGGER less RPMS maybe that is why I can do 50mph at 5100-5200 rpms and 60mph at 6100-6200 rpms. While before stock it would do 50mph at around 8200 rpms. So I like it cause it is easy on the motor and the motor is not screaming. I hardly every get the rpms over 7000 rpms once in a while I will crank her up to around 7300 rpms but that is to fast I think for the trike and scary to boot(HAHA). Alleyoop So the belt pulley is connected to the smaller gear, which spins the larger gear, and I guess turns the reduction gear? Can you change the reduction gear size? |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 1, 2015 2:39:12 GMT -6
All very good points made by all that chimes in. I think 5 gram is about the lowest I would go. We do not know how your motor runs IF it is creating lots of RPMS or not. If you have a tach let us know what your rpms are at WOT which would help determine if any more can be gotten regarding speed and or faster take offs. But remember Faster take offs all that means in your case is STARTING WITH HIGHER RPMS BEFORE THE CLUTCH ENGAGES. So if your scoot starts to move say around 2000 rpms RIGHT NOW and you get a CLUTCH with 1500 rated springs then you ADD the 1500 to the 2000 and now your RPMS NEED TO RISE TO around 3500 before it GRABS the BELL and turns your wheel. So if your riding around at say 20mph your rpms will be higher to keep the CLUTCH PADS ENGAGED. If the rpms drop below the 3500 the pads will disengage and you will be free wheeling. The important thing is to know the RPMS, to determine what is needed and what the motor is putting out. So I would suggest to get a TACH they are cheap and can be transfered from one scoot to another. Here is a very good little take that registers with no delays, the cheaper ones on ebay do not register quickly they are slow to register the rpms. Wouldn't the clutch engage sooner, or would you need more than just 1500rpm springs? |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 1, 2015 2:26:29 GMT -6
Yes we did put a washer in there just like you said you did to keep axle in tight But the differential miter gears are sloppy loose and noisy I don't think they should be that loose With the differential out and slipping the axle in to turn the gears it is noisy the gears make a noise on the shaft sounds like a card with a clothespin that the spokes on a bicycle makes Don't know if you did that when you were a kid I am positive it did not make this sound 229 miles ago I have spoken with Jim at Rapid Repair and he says the gears and shaft are unavailable but I can purchase the whole rear end or the differential alone Really frustrating because this thing only has 229 miles on it maybe you can find somebody parting out an old sport quad, get the axle from it, and probably have limited slip. Matter of fact, there is gy6 quads, wonder if they use the same rear axle setup, they do basically have a scooter drivetrain. Same with the gy6 gokarts. I'm not too surprised on the quality, but you'd think the drivetrain woukd be the toughest part on these creatures. I have read about the front steering components on the r/t's they make also having problems. Don't know about the gokarts, and quads, I know they're 150s. I do wonder if there is anything special done to the engines for those much heavier vehicles. |
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Post by jaxrhapsody on Oct 1, 2015 2:06:02 GMT -6
I ended up with another pair of gy6 coil overs far less than the pcx ones. A set of shocks with the yellow springs on them, they aren't adjustable, but they are stiffer. I never noticed that different shocks were used on different bikes.
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