Scooter Doc
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Post by sprocket on Sept 1, 2011 10:15:55 GMT -6
You can try RTV on the seal, but it is only temporary.
Here is the seal stuff...
Honda has seals that fit the GY6 engines.. they are a bit thicker but work...
Stock seals are 19.8x30x5mm....
Honda part number 91201 - KCW - 880 19.8x30x7mm...
You might try regular dino oil if you are running synthetic oil.. it often leaks at the seals
Switching to dino will often stop it....
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Post by sprocket on Sept 1, 2011 10:07:10 GMT -6
Yeah the filter looks good but they don't work very well...use a K&N or a UNI and oil both...
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Post by sprocket on Aug 31, 2011 14:42:27 GMT -6
Wish I was charging John.. by the hour  |
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Scooter Doc
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Post by sprocket on Aug 30, 2011 17:58:21 GMT -6
Alley.. rocks again... good call! You know I have seen batteries that have been charged backwards...I wonder if the original battery was actually backwards and the scooter was wired to compensate... |
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Post by sprocket on Aug 30, 2011 17:56:51 GMT -6
Good move...on the wheel...
On the filter ..if it is foam..wash it out in dish soap and dry it in the sun...then apply a bit of foam oil. If it is paper or cotton, you need to replace it...
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Post by sprocket on Aug 30, 2011 15:54:10 GMT -6
I agree... a tiny bit of oil sure can travel and get on everything!
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Post by sprocket on Aug 30, 2011 12:36:23 GMT -6
No idea.. could be any number of things....
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Post by sprocket on Aug 30, 2011 12:29:21 GMT -6
Check your vacuum line to the de-accelerator (ACV) on the carb... it could be burning VERY lean when you let off on the throttle...
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Scooter Doc
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Post by sprocket on Aug 29, 2011 14:10:05 GMT -6
I would just buy a real motorcycle...
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Post by sprocket on Aug 28, 2011 15:46:25 GMT -6
You need a 10mm adapter.. most compression testing kits come with one...
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Post by sprocket on Aug 28, 2011 15:42:56 GMT -6
I don't use petcocks...much better to replace it with a manual shut off... you just turn it on before you start and turn it off when you stop...
Just like the ignition key...
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Post by sprocket on Aug 28, 2011 14:17:02 GMT -6
Take your battery to an automotive place and ask them to LOAD TEST it... this will tell if the cells are fried.. I would think they are...
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Post by sprocket on Aug 28, 2011 12:38:45 GMT -6
He used permanent red loctite and it still backed off...I can't believe this is such a problem... the threads on the crank must be under sized... I think you aren't getting it nearly tight enough with a screwdriver...you really should use the proper socket on a torque wrench
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Post by sprocket on Aug 28, 2011 12:26:14 GMT -6
HOT and WET... compression check.. you run the engine for 10 minutes (hot)... pull the plug and add a few shots of oil (wet) into the spark plug hole and then hook up a compression gauge and check the reading it should be above 130 psi for a GY6 engine.. 150++psi is a good engine 120psi is marginal and below that the rings or valves need to be redone...under 100 psi they usually won't run... There are other ways of checking compression but this is the one I was taught 50 years ago so I prefer it...the automotive shop teacher used to say "Hot and Wet" and all the shop class would titter...makes it easy to remember too... www.dansmc.com/compression_test.htm |
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Post by sprocket on Aug 27, 2011 16:07:01 GMT -6
40NM -- thin air ;-)
Seriously...that crank tread job can't be to spec...no way it should loosen with the regularity it does or the nut is defective...
Have you tried a new nut? Perhaps the nut you are using has a hairline crack? Really difficult to see
especially when bangin' it with a cold chisel...
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