Clinician
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Post by beebo on Jul 12, 2015 10:07:12 GMT -6
Just watched that fantastic video! Thanks, JR, for posting that. This really shows how easy it is to remove and inspect. I really like the o-ring mods!
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Clinician
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Post by beebo on Jul 12, 2015 9:44:33 GMT -6
Sounds to me like your starter motor has brushes that are worn out or sticking. If you can tap on the motor and get the starter to work, the brushes are sticking and not making very good contact with the armature, or the springs that hold the brush up next to the armature are weak or broken, or the brushes are worn down so short that they no longer reach the armature. I would open the starter up carefully(watch for flying parts), check the brushes for condition, make sure they move freely in their holders, clean the armature contact area with a toothbrush, blow out all debris from the armature and field windings, lube the bearings. Brushes can be replaced, if you can find them, Certainly cheaper than a new starter,
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Clinician
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WTF!!!
by: beebo - Oct 10, 2014 12:08:16 GMT -6
Post by beebo on Oct 10, 2014 12:08:16 GMT -6
I think you guys are right about the filter being too small. That little filter might work alright on a little 49cc motor, but it is way too small for a 150cc. It looks to me like Alleys' filter has 4 or 5x the filter area or more.
Were you trying to mount that little filter directly to the bell of the carb? These CV carbs seem to be real sensitive to the quality of the air flowing into the mouth of the carb. They seem to need at least a couple of inches of straight tubing between the filter and the carb, so the airflow can "straighten out" and become more laminar before entering the carb. Alley, it looks like you have around 4 inches or so of intake tube between your filter and carb. That is about what I have been using on mine. My filter is a little bigger yet, but mine ran like sh#t until I put a short piece of tubing in between. I could really tell the difference when it fell off during my experimenting-it really lost that seat-of-the-pants feel of power, and I would have to pull over and put it back on. I rigged up a bracket similar to Alley's and it has stayed on ever since.
I think I wound up going up 2 jet sizes and as long as I don't dog it too much, I get at least as good mpg, maybe better than before.
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Clinician
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Post by beebo on Oct 4, 2014 20:07:02 GMT -6
I have a PDF copy of a service manual for the NC50 if you are interested in working on it yourself. Let me know.
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Post by beebo on Sept 27, 2014 8:52:36 GMT -6
I don't know about a 10 litre capacity--that's over 2.5 gallons! I've never pushed it to see how far I could go before I ran out! My daily commute is about 120 miles round trip, so I fill up daily. It usually takes 1.4 to 1.6 gallons to fill up. I average 81 mpg--this is riding my 250cc. I run at highway speeds, from 55 to 70 mph. and a couple miles of side streets on either end. My mileage goes down a little bit if I get stuck in stop-and-go driving, like if there is a wreck or something--VERY hard on the clutch, too.
I wouldn't try to go more than 150 miles on a tank without a working gauge, until you have a better feel for the mpg of your bike. Also, if you have room in your trunk, carry a 1-gallon jug of gas just in case.
If you will look in the library, I believe there is a manual there, or at least a link to one.
Good luck and have fun riding!!
Bob
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BBK Woes
by: beebo - Sept 27, 2014 8:14:20 GMT -6
Post by beebo on Sept 27, 2014 8:14:20 GMT -6
The 50cc bikes are usually governed so they stay at or under the 30mph speed limit that most are designed for. The CDI has a rev limiter built in, so you need to buy an aftermarket CDI with no rev limiter in it.
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Post by beebo on Sept 27, 2014 8:07:28 GMT -6
Dallas Power Sports 11058 Harry Hines Blvd Dallas, TX 75229
I have bought 3 scooters from these guys over the last 5 or 6 years. I haven't really had any issues with these scoots that I couldn't resolve myself, but I did have a couple of minor electrical issues with my 250cc Roketa, and they offered to fix it for free, as it was still under warranty. They were correct in their guess but I fixed it myself.(loose wires at the fuse block). If I buy another, it will likely be from these guys.
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Post by beebo on Sept 16, 2014 19:04:36 GMT -6
Mark Twain. Runningslow, welcome to Texas.
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Post by beebo on Sept 13, 2014 10:55:35 GMT -6
Sounds like a fuel supply problem. Check the vacuum lines at the fuel pump (all of them.really) and see if that helps. You might loosen the gas cap and drive it a little--that is a fairly common problem with the evap/vent system. A crack in a vacuum line can cause problems, especially when the motor is cold, but be almost unnoticeable when the motor warms up. If your fuel tank is higher than your motor, you might bypass the fuel pump entirely by going straight from the tank to the motor with fuel line and see if that makes a difference.(gravity feed)
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Clinician
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Post by beebo on Sept 7, 2014 20:17:49 GMT -6
Metal stud framing screws work pretty well for that, too. I run relatively cheap Shenkos on my 250 and they have held up well in the rain--of course I don't drive like an idiot in the rain, either. Plan your moves and don't do anything sudden, especially hitting the brakes. Now if you want to drive in the snow, check this out: www.riminimoto.net/prodotti.aspNow this looks like fun!
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Post by beebo on Aug 11, 2014 9:41:14 GMT -6
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Post by beebo on Jun 26, 2014 11:57:18 GMT -6
I watched your video and it sounds to me like you might need to clean or adjust the carb. It seems to be hesitant to rev up when you give it the gas. Does your temp guage read hot? I couldn't see it well in the video. It may be running too hot, making it hard to crank. When mine gets hard to crank, it is usually time to change the oil. When it gets old and thin, mine gets hard to start.
The start and charge systems on these bikes are barely adequate when everything is working good. I noticed you kill and restart about a half dozen times in a few minutes. You need to give it some time to recharge the battery when you start it--at least a few minutes, or take it for a short ride. Idling, with the lights on full time, will probably not charge the battery much, at least not very fast. Your meter showed it to be charging, but likely not very many amps. You need to ride it to get a decent charge. Looks like you have it set to idle around 1000 rpm. Can't tell too well on my monitor. I would idle it up around 1800 to 1900 rpm or as high as it will go without engaging the clutch. It will help the charge and might help it to crank a little easier, too.
Does yours have the remote start? I kept having battery problems until my dealer told me about the remote start. If you start it with the remote, kill it with the remote, or it will still be "on" and it will drain the battery.
I listened to the video again, and it does sound to me like the bike has a miss at idle, and sputters on rev like it is dirty/running a little lean at idle/off idle. Clean or adjust.
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Post by beebo on Jun 25, 2014 20:44:30 GMT -6
The link just took me to a login page.
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Post by beebo on Jun 22, 2014 14:38:49 GMT -6
You could probably go for weeks or months without a muffler (I wouldn't) but you won't last but minutes without oil. I make checking the oil part of my daily walk around before I crank it up. (Especially if I'm riding someone else's bike.) Like jct842 said, you won't know until you open it up. My guess is, at the least, you are going to need a piston, rings, and jug. If it seized while hauling azz, you probably snapped the rod, too, meaning a total rebuild or replacement.
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Post by beebo on Jun 22, 2014 14:08:07 GMT -6
Looks exactly like my JCL Superscooter. Mine is a 2008, though. With minor tuning and a good tail wind it will go 65mph. SPECIFICATIONS : JCL-MP150B
ENGINE INFO : GY6 family
Engine type : Single cylinder, 4 stroke
Engine brand : 157QMJ
Displacement : 150cc
Cooling : Air cooled
Max horsepower : 7.9hp/7000r/min
Max torque : 8.5n.m/4000rpm
Bore*stroke : 2.26x2.28inches
Max speed : 59mile/h
Climbing ability : 15degree
Ignition : C.D.I
Starting system : Electric/kick
Battery : 12V/7Ah
Carburetor brand : PZ24J
Engine oil : SAE15W/40SF
Gear oil : 85W/90
Clutch : Automatic
Transmission : Variable speed automatic(CVT)
Driveline : Chain-drive
Driving wheel : Rear wheel drive
Brakes,front/rear : Disc/drum
Brake operation : Hand
Tires,front/rear : 130/60-13
Fuel capacity/type : 1.5gal 90 octane or better
Weight,G.W./N.W : 332.8/277.7lbs
Max load : 330.6lbs
Wheelbase : 54.3inches
OA L*W*H : 76.9*27.5*43.1inches
Height to seat : 29.5inches
Min ground clearance : 4.7inches
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