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Post by tomcat on Dec 25, 2013 0:15:26 GMT -6
Unfortunately, like Luke, I'm a lonely soul who's by himself, on the computer, Christmas Eve.
Actually it's now Christmas Day.
So Merry Christmas to all, and to all a Good Knight!
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Clinician
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Post by tomcat on Dec 22, 2013 5:48:50 GMT -6
Acting nice just before Christmas won't get you off of Santa's naughty list. Nice try though!  |
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Post by tomcat on Dec 20, 2013 13:25:36 GMT -6
Hey, are you one of them there Duck Hunting people? ;D
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Post by tomcat on Dec 14, 2013 12:26:07 GMT -6
Well, the one thing I haven't tried is cranking with the throttle wide open.
Today it's snowing like hell here & I'll have to go out in awhile & get the snowblower going (which starts right up, as does my gas generator. Go figger).
So will try to start the trike again using the full-throttle method.
Looks like a manual choke is on my to-do list for next spring.
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Post by tomcat on Dec 14, 2013 6:06:21 GMT -6
Same deal here (cold temps, unheated garage) except mine won't start at all. Starter cranks, get not even a sputter. Verified kill switch is off & coil firmly attached to plug. Gas (with stabilizer) in tank. Last was able to start it a couple weeks ago when temps were a bit milder. Guess I'll have to get some starting fluid & see if that works. If it wasn't a trike I could roll it into the heated breezeway overnight, would prolly start then.  |
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Post by tomcat on Nov 10, 2013 11:48:00 GMT -6
And yet: "Low humidity is one of the reasons people stay sick during the winter months. This is because your body naturally filters the air you breathe by way of mucus membranes. Mucus membranes are located in your throat and nasal passages. When these membranes become dry they lose their elasticity and crack. Once cracked they bleed giving a direct path for germs and bacteria to enter your bloodstream. The result is illness within a few days. Furthermore, low humidity provides the perfect breeding ground for germs and bacteria within your home, making the chances of becoming infected that much greater." Just thought I would add to the "what the hell does this have to do with the topic"  |
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Post by tomcat on Oct 19, 2013 7:25:35 GMT -6
As Steve mentioned, this particular carb is only available in 30mm. I have no idea what the jet sizes are.
It runs strong from launch to 45 indicated, then takes awhile (10 seconds or so) to squeeze out the last 5mph.
I've lowered the air pressure to 15 psi rear and 20 psi front to help from getting bounced off the thing when hitting road bumps. The rear tire sidewalls have absolutely no flex.
What is your top-end Steve and at what rpm?
And what is the problem with your axle?
Tom
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Post by tomcat on Oct 18, 2013 0:37:33 GMT -6
Hit 50mph indicated (which is probably 45 or so actual) the other day for the first time. Was turning 6800 rpm. Trike has 225 miles on it so not totally broken in yet.
Can someone please interpret this info (6800 rpm at top-end speed)?
Is this about right or should I make some adjustments to the weights/variator?
List of mods is in sig.
Thanks!
Tom
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Post by tomcat on Sept 25, 2013 3:10:38 GMT -6
I can personally vouch for this. There were several issues with my Viking trike even though Ice Bear did the PDI. However, largely due to Jim's intervention on my behalf, all of the defective parts were replaced at no cost to me. Not even shipping.
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Starter
by: tomcat - Sept 22, 2013 12:17:26 GMT -6
Post by tomcat on Sept 22, 2013 12:17:26 GMT -6
Wow, does this ever bring back memories. Had a '68 Roadrunner with the same problem. Every once in awhile would have to give the solenoid a gentle whack with a wrench to free it up. My post in no way contributes anything to this thread, but please indulge an old man reminiscing.  |
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Post by tomcat on Sept 9, 2013 10:04:32 GMT -6
Life is good!!!  |
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Post by tomcat on Sept 8, 2013 9:09:32 GMT -6
Thanks for the info!
Just got done changing the oil for the second time and sure enough there is an O-Ring.
I'm used to cars, not scoots. So learning as I go.
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Post by tomcat on Sept 5, 2013 7:17:17 GMT -6
Is there supposed to be a gasket on the oil drain plug? When I did my first oil change, everything flew out into the container (from now on I'll hold a strainer to catch the plug, spring & filter). If there was a gasket I couldn't find it.
Due for second oil change & if there is supposed to be a gasket I'll get one. Have to say though, there have been NO leaks in the 100 miles I've ridden without a gasket.
150cc 157QMJ
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Post by tomcat on Aug 22, 2013 12:16:04 GMT -6
Thanks for the welcome John & Alley. In answer to your comments Alley: 1) That's what I needed to know! 2a) No reverse 2b) I will try that It's a 2012 Viking bought from Jim at Rapid Repair. I hate to keep bugging him with questions so figured I'd bug you guys for awhile |
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Post by tomcat on Aug 22, 2013 7:36:34 GMT -6
Need some advice guys.
1) Getting a hard "clunk" accompanied by shuddering from somewhere in the rear when the tranny engages. What's weird is that this basically goes away for the most part after riding awhile. It's not the rear caliper sticking, checked that. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Not sure if this is related, but should the chain have a bit of play? Mine has none, it's very tight.
2) The trike has just over 100 miles on it. I changed the oil at 50 & will do it again at 150. At that time I will also change out the gear lube with 75W90 Mobil 1. I see there is a zerk fitting on the rear axle. What type of lube should I use for this? And how will I know when it's full, just keep pumping until no more goes in?
It's been a long time since I've lubed a front end, but back then there was a rubber boot that expanded to let you know when to stop.
Thanks in advance for any help. It's really a shame that the "Owners Manual" is a joke on these Chinese scoots. Thank God for sites like this!
Tom
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