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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 2, 2013 19:01:28 GMT -6
If your cdi is dc fired ( powered by 12vdc from the battery) and you have a dead battery and a bad regulator the in (engine) will shut off . John That would be true for a missing, gone away, or completely destroyed regulator. The rectifier portion of an otherwise bad regulator can be even partially functioning and still supply enough current to keep the engine running. I gave my full size lab-type O-scope away to my nephew that teaches HS Physics and Math. I may have to invest in one of those high end VOM meters that has a 'scope function. Those would be small and handy enough to probe scoot electrical systems. It won't be long before one is needed to work on a new car. Some probably require one already. I feel 'blind' when just using a VOM. BTW- From what I have seen so far some Rectifier/Regulator circuits are better than others. Some are awful, some are just brute force simple, and others are elegant. But that's just me, I am interested in such things.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 2, 2013 12:17:42 GMT -6
I ride mine unless it is snowing or something and below freezing.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 20:52:55 GMT -6
All the scooter groupies I have seen around have been too young to be interesting.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 20:44:13 GMT -6
Did you forget your phone on the beach and the tide came in? My daughter lost one that way out in Santa Monica. Landlubbers forget about tides..... Small lakes and rivers don't have tides. River levels get interesting when dams or storms are involved.
My 'new' scooter had a 'new' battery but it lost a cell even on a battery maintainer.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 20:33:32 GMT -6
You may have a leaker.
-Or the fuel filter may be clogged, or the tank is empty, or a fuel line is kinked.... Have you checked fuel delivery at the carb?
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 16:34:09 GMT -6
You can get your battery tested at some parts stores. Ask if they have the proper equipment rated for use with small batteries. Many shops do not have the proper equipment. Charge the battery before you go with a good 0.5-2A charger or they may try to charge it with a regular automotive 30A charger. Charging instructions may even be printed on the battery.
When you have a known good charged up battery check your system voltage at the battery as Bashan suggested. The charge voltage with the scoot running should be 14V +/- 0.5V.
Your voltage regulator may be bad. They are cheap and you should keep a spare around. TVN can supply a good one. There are some instructions for testing a regulator but I would not trust them since there are several different circuits used by manufacturers.
My scoot normally has only a single tiny wire and fuse coming from the battery that supplies power to the ignition switch and everything else. That makes testing for a parasitic drain fairly simple. The ignition switch should turn off everything. The big wire goes to the starter relay. I have additional circuits on mine that I have added.
Alley is correct about the AC/DC scooter question being only about the CDI power supply. His first test for a DC CDI is good. However I would not use Alley's second test for a AC or DC scooter. I have seen too many schematics and vehicles that will continue to run without a battery. Disconnecting the battery also produces 'load dump' transients on the system. It might 'work' with some scoots but personally I don't do it.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 15:18:41 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum. I started with a new scoot and figured I was still taking a chance. At least it sounds like you know something about scoots. Good luck with it!
? -Did you get all the rings in right side up? I don't know about scoot rings but normal engines have a mark on the rings.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 0:20:17 GMT -6
Missing could be due to a mixture problem, air leak, fuel delivery, or an electrical problem.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 0:17:37 GMT -6
Anything that says "Honda' automatically doubles the price.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 0:13:43 GMT -6
I hear Thailand is a little 'unstable'. Vietnam is industrializing just like China.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 0:02:10 GMT -6
Tell her they are actually pink just for her.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 1, 2013 0:00:07 GMT -6
Your PS is correct. Modify the circuit if needed and switch the starter relay with the remote. Most scoots have safety switches so the brakes must be on before the starter will operate.
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Post by FrankenMech on Nov 30, 2013 23:54:11 GMT -6
Old cars with glasspack mufflers that burned a lot of oil would coat the packing with carbon and eventually the fiberglass packing would burn out.
It was also a common practice to fill the glaspacks with oil and burn them out with a torch so that a driver could show the police that they actually had 'mufflers' and were not running an open exhaust.
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Post by FrankenMech on Nov 30, 2013 23:44:55 GMT -6
I had dual 18/18W High/Low halogen headlamps that were too dim to see anything. There was also a lot of light reflecting off the decorative 'guard' over the lights and light leaking from the back of the chrome plated plastic stock reflectors. That light leakage ruined my night vision also. The 18/18W bulbs were only available from the manufacturer in China. If I remember right that is a violation of the DOT standards.
I removed both of the stock lamp assemblies and replaced them with LED assemblies. The LED replacements are not DOT rated. Fortunately my scoot falls under the bicycle lighting rules in Kansas which means my front light must be a 'white light visible from 500 feet'.
The stock assemblies were labeled DOT but I also noticed that rating was for a 5/5W bulb. The stock assemblies also had a small #194? bulb 'marker' light in them that came on with the ignition switch. I wired two LED billet bullet lights into that circuit.
When I wired up the new lights I used a couple of diodes to make both front white light 'headlights' come on in HIGH and only one in LOW.
I had the proper connectors so I just made up a new wire harness for the lights that plugs right in to the existing wire harness.
I saved the stock fixtures and wire harness in my pieces-parts leftover box. That box also has a rev limiter and a nasty buzzer alarm like they use as a backup alarm on construction equipment. It also contains the tiny 'free' trunk and the front bumper for the scoot. I reconfigured about 1/3 of the electrical wiring harness. Sea air and LA smog did not do the scoot any favors. There were two bad switches that had oxidized or corroded to the point they would not make contact. I had to disassemble and clean those switches. The schematic for the scoot did not show much of the wiring or was incorrect.
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Post by FrankenMech on Nov 30, 2013 20:33:50 GMT -6
Missing will cause that.
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