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Dude I rode from Aiken sc to Knoxville Tn on my eagle 150 then from Knoxville to Hendersonville Nc to Aiken sc. Around 800 miles total. I would do it agian In a heartbeat. The dragons tail was an awesome ride. Get a solid tool kit together and go for it! Pack any spare parts you might have and go have a blast.

Cut several small pieces of the fiber mat small enough to fit inside the hole. Sand the surrounding area with some 80 grit sand paper so the resin will have something to bite. Clean it good with brake parts cleaner. Brake cleaner does not leave any residue behind when it dries. Tape the back side with masking tape. Make sure that you follow the directions precisely so that it will cure properly. Mix some of the resin and hardener and remember that you need to work quickly once it's mixed. Put a thin coat of the mixed resin down in the hole and the tape will support it. Build it up by using the small pieces of mat that you cut earlier and resin, mat and resin, mat and resin and so on till you get it filled. Then cover the whole repair with a piece of mat and resin that will cover about two inches bigger than the hole and make sure that it's built up a little higher than the body panel so you can sand it and get the right contours. This is called blocking. Use rough sand paper to block it in and then use progressively finer paper to get it smooth. Let this all cure over night. Now peel the tape from the back side and use 80 grit paper to rough up this side and to remove any left over tape. Clean with brake cleaner and glass this side also so it will support the repair. Remember to work quickly and if at any time the resin starts to get to thick to work with don't use it. Mix some more. When you get done this repaired area will be stronger than it was from the factory. That is fact. When you are ready for paint let me know. brockharwell@live.com

Thanks for clearing that up JR. A lot of good info!

Correct me if I'm wrong guys but as I know it, if you do not have continuity between the ground pin and the body of the R/R that means the it is a floating ground type and that is what you need. Now that will tell you what type of stator that you have. One thing that I know is that there are at least 5 diff. types of 8 pole stator that I know of maybe more. I ran into a hell of a mess a while back and I learned a lot about stators. There is what is refered to as a center tapped or half wave stator where the 7 AC coils are split 3 and 4 and where they are split they are grounded to the body of the stator. This type requires a R/R that is grounded through the green wire to the body of the R/R to the frame. Then you have a floating ground or full wave type where the charging coils are not split and not grounded to the body of the stator. This one requires a R/R that the green wire is not grounded th the body of the R/R ie. floating ground. I hope this wasn't to much info and agian guys correct me if I am wrong.

I'll bet that Tvnacman has that rectifier In stock. Check him out. He is on here and you can find him by doing a member look up.

Yep that's exactly what not to do! That case and jug should never been paired up. Not engineered for that kind of stress. I wish them the best with a new motor.