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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 29, 2014 13:33:44 GMT -6
Any you guys got a service manual for a 2008 yw50 zuma in PDF I can download? Any help would be awsome! Had my moped tag on my 150 gy6 and got pulled over by a trooper the other night. $1,126 in fines and got to go to court. So I got to fix the zuma. The crank splines are striped for the starter clutch. Guess I'll have to swap the crank. Oh joy!!! Thanks guys.
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 17, 2014 20:44:26 GMT -6
They sell them at most auto parts stores. Might be better to get them online some where cause of the smaller plug size. Use just a little red loctite when you install it and let it set. Then break the tab out of the bottom of the heli coil and your done. They also make threaded inserts just for spark plugs. I'm sorry I can't copy links with this phone but you can google it John.
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 16, 2014 7:59:37 GMT -6
Did you ever get this fixed? You know that you can fix the old head right? If it's only a stripped spark plug hole you can use what's known as a heli coil to repair the threads. I have used them on cars and trucks ect. and never had a problem with them.
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 14, 2014 10:26:05 GMT -6
I'm having problems posting pics. Black wire in very bottom hole. Red wire in center hole of meter. Set dial to 20 DCV. Now when you get the front cowling off and get access the the ignition plug touch black lead to neg on battery and red to red ignition plug wire. Should have around 12.5 volts. Next touch black lead to neg on battery agian and with ignition switch in the on posisition touch red lead from meter to black wire of ignition switch. Should have around 12.5 volts. Let me know what you find.
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 14, 2014 9:27:17 GMT -6
I assume that your little scoot has a QMB139 50cc engine correct? If so do you have a service manual? If you do not then I have a good one on a PDF file that I could send you. The only way I can send it to you on this phone is through email. If you want it shoot me your email and I would be glad to send it. You seem like you know quite a bit about using your tools so maybe it will answer some questions for you.
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 14, 2014 9:15:02 GMT -6
Volt meter, multi meter same thing for this purpose. What kind do you have? Post a pic if you can as it will help me help you set the meter up right. There are thousands of meters by hundreds of company's. All are a little diffrent.
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 14, 2014 8:09:09 GMT -6
I've been following this post for awhile and in inclined to think it may be the ignition switch. To test it properly you will need a volt meter. Do you have one? The reason I say this is because you lost your lights as well.
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 14, 2014 7:34:08 GMT -6
The only thing I can think of is A. the float is set to high and not stoping fuel flow or the float is dragging the side of the bowl and is not letting the needle valve seat to stop flow. The reason it overflows when you hit the start button is because the petcock it only open when it has vacume from the intake port. When you turn the engine over vacume is applied to the petcock and if the float is set to high then it will flood. Assuming you have checked the needle valve and seat for damage set the float as follows. There is a line on the float where the two halves were molded together. That line should be level with the bowl mounting flange when the carb is upside down. Also make sure that the float is not rubbing the side of the bowl. Hope this helps you!
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 9, 2014 10:45:00 GMT -6
Are there any other symptoms such as back firing or popping through the carb ect?
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 9, 2014 10:36:20 GMT -6
John is correct. You MUST take your time. If the nut is still threading on the shaft then it should not take much dressing with a file. If you inspect the threads very closely then you will prob find the bad spot. Good luck and take your time.
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 9, 2014 6:57:51 GMT -6
A thread file is a small file used to fix imperfections in the thread profile. You can also use a small triangle shaped rat tail file. Thread file at Sears or another tool supply. Rat tail file at lowes or Home Depot .
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 8, 2014 15:45:00 GMT -6
Make sure you don't use a cutting die to chase the threads unless you have used them before. It's very easy to change the set of the threads and the nut will be lose and sloppy and you run the risk of pulling the threads when you torque it down. I would use a thread file if you have access to the threads.
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Post by scatterbrained on Jan 8, 2014 15:18:12 GMT -6
Got her strightened out. I did away with that @&$?!&$@ auto enricher agian number 1. I also removed the intake cause I sprayed it and found a small air leak 2. The insulator/spacer looked like a kid milled it down with a belt sander so I used a peice of 1 inch x 8 inch mild steel that I use as a surface plate and some 1000 grit paper and got it nice and flat 3. Made a new gasket and used a hard setting gasket sealer on the gasket and spacer and a small amount of black RTV on the o-ring to make sure it had no choice but to seal 4. Totally rebuilt the carb except for the ACV diaphragm witch I can not find for this carb 5. Pulled a light vacume on the ACV AND TO MY SUPPRISE it was good. Put it all back together and she is running like a top! At this point I think it was a combo of the enricher and the intake. I'm glad it is over......till the next little grimmlin shows his ugly little head any way. Thank you Tvnacman, Bashan and Alleyoop for all your help on this!
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Post by scatterbrained on Dec 28, 2013 13:39:42 GMT -6
Sorry for not including you john:( I use that same analogy about water and current through pipe to so I understand that. Amps is flow of current and watts is power used. Think I got that right:$ I hope like hell that this carb kit has the right diaphragm in it. The pic you showed me Rich has a diaphragm with a small piston or pin in the ACV. Mine is large and I can't find it anywhere. Not gonna worry about it today. Think I'll go make me a tin foil helmet and play lightning hunter with the wife. Bzzzzzz Bzzzzzz! Lol
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Post by scatterbrained on Dec 28, 2013 9:51:35 GMT -6
On my thread "spittin and poppin at WOT" we have been working on a rich condition. Carb kit should be here soon. Question is this.....when I did the 11 pole stator and 7 pin rectifier upgrade I did away with the auto enricher and fabricated a simple direct injection in the air cleaner tube for cold starts. It ran fine from Knoxville Tn to Aiken Sc. I used a block off gasket to eliminate the enricher and completely removed it. When I started having this problem I removed said gasket, tested said enricher with a 6 amp Batt charger and it checked out fine, a full 1/2 inch of movement, so I reinstalled it. The enricher is tied into the lighting circuit Wich was AC before the stator upgrade. I converted all the lights to DC and put my headlights on a switch. So I'm not using the white wire on the 7 pin rectifier for anything. Should I use the white wire for the enricher with AC voltage? While testing the enricher it doesn't seen to matter if it's AC or DC voltage. Thanks guys.
Brock.
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