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Post by scootaway on Nov 22, 2010 6:57:08 GMT -6
Just to revive an oldish thread. I took the caliper off, took the pads out and started pumping the brake lever until the two pistons in the caliper wants to pop out. Then I squeeze the piston back with a vice and repeat again for about 10 times. Now I have a much softer rear brake lever and the brakes even feel better. (Did not open the reservoir)
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Post by scootaway on Nov 21, 2010 8:45:40 GMT -6
What's that white stuff, could that be the reason you guys hang the scooters up? Alleyoop I like your attitude.
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Post by scootaway on Nov 20, 2010 12:00:33 GMT -6
I know there are a few threads on this subject. The question whether you should set the valve lash hot engine running or cold engine off. Well I tried both and i think the cold method is more accurate and gives more performance. This is why. The smaller the valve lash the bigger the valve lift and the more air/fuel charge gets sucked in. Obviously there is a danger if the lash is too small for you will burn the valves. With the hot setting you never know when enough is enough. Between the hot and cold setting the lash was rather bigger (hot) which means that the valve does not open to its maximum and less charge gets sucked in. With the cold setting you can't really go wrong in terms of the lash. Unless there were other variables at play such as weather (more atmospheric pressure today) I believe my YY250T Jonway pulls better with the cold method.
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Post by scootaway on Nov 20, 2010 11:46:14 GMT -6
You know here in sunny South Africa (denying all other troubles) we sometimes use the word 'shame" in a different context as you people in the US. So if someone's car gets stolen or a child falls from a bicycle we will say shame did that hurt etc. Now i believe you people in the states use the word "shame" for something that really is a shame, like a scandal.
So my point is that I want to say to ya all now that it is getting winter "shame". Actually here in SA we don't hang scooters et al up for winter, we keep on riding them albeit with some layers of clothing in winter. In johannesburg it does not rain in winter so the roads are always dry. Having said that I will be making my way to the US (Arlington VA) in three weeks time. So I hope to experience the reason why you have to "hang up" the scooter. Maybe then I will understand.
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Post by scootaway on Nov 3, 2010 11:36:53 GMT -6
Also the piping to the rear is a little further and that could also be a reason and with no servo assistance.
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Post by scootaway on Nov 2, 2010 13:12:33 GMT -6
Could be the pistons inside the caliper. Mine is also not to soft. I reckon s strip down of everything from master to slave.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 23, 2010 11:55:17 GMT -6
Cirnobyl Alleyoop is right you can never take the idle jet out as it will never idle. The idle jet must be in tight ,however you can alter the value (a little number like #38 or #40 will be stamped on it) The reason why it is bogging down is because the original air intake point (the two little holes) is gone and the engine is now getting a lot of air but still the same amount of fuel. You will have to alter the idle jet, the jet needle (here I suggest buy another one with grooves but of the same value as it too has a value) and the main jet. I have a #38 idle, 118 main, same needle just on the 2nd groove from top. A word of warning though. Once you alter the air etc you have set yourself on a road of great frustration unless you lucky and get it right first time. It is however fun and you can teach yourself a lot. Do one thing at a time as that way you can control and undo what you did last.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 23, 2010 11:35:14 GMT -6
Barry taking the seat off will help but I do mine from behind where the airbox is (my airbox is removed) I undo them one at a time then I use my right arm (hand) from the side and watching from the top and then tightening from the top. If you have big hands I suggest do it the cold method where you bring the engine to top dead center on firing stroke and then its better because no heat no vibrations just take your time.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 19, 2010 10:40:20 GMT -6
She is purring like a kitten at a steady 1200 rpm. Teachers think alike so I'm with ccprof on this one ...practise, practise practise, makes perfect. Good one Denise and don't worry about the size you look marvelous babe.
PS footnote, yellow and orange don't go so better get yourself a bikers jacket to complete the look lol.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 17, 2010 13:05:18 GMT -6
Without the end play any spinning motor even an electric one will not last. An internal combustion engine with vibration will destroy it self without end play.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 16, 2010 12:36:27 GMT -6
Fubar i guess that is about correct if the scoot is still standard ie. old air cleaner standard jets etc. The shaft must have end play.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 16, 2010 12:31:12 GMT -6
A very valid point Cruiser
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Post by scootaway on Oct 16, 2010 12:29:22 GMT -6
Alleyoop you right. The problem is however how much ticky ticky must you hear? When is enough... enough? If you can get it spot-on the extra performance is there to find. The smaller the gap the higher the lift of the valve but with the danger of burning the valve and the bigger the gap the safer it is for the valve but you loose on lift, less charge goes in and some damage eventually to the cam.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 15, 2010 11:19:46 GMT -6
Well on the Helix clone you don't need feeler gauges of course. My view is that with the hot engine running method, an inexperienced mechanic might not know when he's hearing enough tappet or not hearing it at all. So an inexperienced person should in my view use the cold method as it is probably safer.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 15, 2010 11:04:42 GMT -6
Would it be wise to eliminate the cvt cover (rubber) gasket as without it water will go in and over time be detrimental to belt and pulleys.
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