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Post by thecableguy on Nov 11, 2016 9:46:19 GMT -6
Right back at ya brother... And to all my brothers and sisters in arms, Bright Blessings on this beautiful day!
Jim
IC1(SS) USN 83-95
SSG (12B) WI ARNG 95-04
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Post by thecableguy on Nov 8, 2016 15:50:14 GMT -6
Vice-Grip? Or drill and EZ-Out...
Replace with a proper stud and nut when you are done.
Jim
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Post by thecableguy on Sept 26, 2016 13:17:37 GMT -6
No replacement for Displacement!  My 30yo +500lb 1 liter "big bike"... |
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Post by thecableguy on Sept 9, 2016 13:51:56 GMT -6
Like the line about the "babes" coming crawling? Or the 65 MPH? LOL
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Post by thecableguy on Aug 20, 2016 8:53:25 GMT -6
Unfortunately I'm not familiar with that carb. If you don't get someone else jumping in to help, I'd start another thread specifically asking for help on the carb issue.
Good Luck!!
Jim
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Post by thecableguy on Aug 19, 2016 19:54:45 GMT -6
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable on the carbs can chime in.
If the CVT is not clanking any more I think you've got that problem solved...
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Post by thecableguy on Aug 16, 2016 12:18:38 GMT -6
Lay the variator flat, load the rollers in the ramps, slide the backing plate on and reattach the cover plate. (I've never had a scoot with a cover plate like that, but it should all work the same). Then just hold it together as you slide it on to the shaft. Once it's pushed back fully on the shaft, the rollers should stay in place as you fit the belt, fan and nut back on. Watch this video. Good luck, let us know how it goes! Jim |
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Post by thecableguy on Aug 16, 2016 10:50:45 GMT -6
Rollers are cheap, I think you'd be OK cleaning it and slapping it back together with the rollers you have, but I'd order some new ones soon.
Weigh them with as accurate a scale as you can find to figure out the weight of the new ones. Either weigh them individually if you have a scale that'll read gram weights or weigh them all and divide by 8.
As you can see, when the variator is apart, the rollers can come out of their ramps pretty easily. What probably happened is that the variator was removed or the belt replaced without checking the position of the rollers and making sure to keep the assembly squeezed tight together while replacing it.
To put it another way:
The belt pushes against the variator face and the variator rollers are held in place between the backing plate and the variator. As the crank spins faster, the weights move outward, squeezing the belt and causing it to ride higher, changing the effective "gear" ratio.
If the belt snaps or the nut is removed, there is no force pressing against the variator face and the rollers can tumble all over the place. It's vitally important to be sure to keep this all together and the rollers in their ramps as you reassemble. Any time you change a belt or remove the variator you need to recheck the rollers.
Also, the variator does not need grease. The plastic that the rollers are coated in is self-lubricating.
Jim
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Post by thecableguy on Aug 15, 2016 20:39:49 GMT -6
ok, those rollers are all out of place. Clean all the grease out of there, clean the rollers and all the other pieces. Inspect the rollers, they should be round without flat spots. When you put it back together, it should be clean and without grease. The rollers should be sitting in their ramps, in that pic, only 4 are in correctly. The ones we can see into are flipped out of their ramps. Like this  Put it all back together, making sure to hold the backing ramp plate the whole time so they hold the rollers in place until you get the nut on. I hope this all makes sense. I'm sure this is the root of your performance issues AND clanking sound. Jim |
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Post by thecableguy on Aug 15, 2016 12:48:02 GMT -6
Now pull the ramp plate off (the black piece in the top pic). You should find the rollers under there. Lets take a look...
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Post by thecableguy on Aug 15, 2016 8:47:57 GMT -6
Well, since the noise isn't there with the variator off and is with it (and only it) on, it does point us in that direction. Just knocking a fin off shouldn't cause a noise like that. Can you post photos of the inside of the variator? Rollers, ramps, etc?
Jim
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Post by thecableguy on Jul 14, 2016 14:25:05 GMT -6
What Trash said, plus the old adage "There's no replacement for displacement" applies. Absolutely the most bang for your buck is a BBK. The gains from intake and exhaust (plus doing the required carb jetting) are relatively minimal compared to increasing displacement.
One area you should look at is the weights in the variator. Gains, especially in acceleration are to be had pretty cheaply there. Search this board for info, there's a TON of it on here.
Performance parts are available all over the place. Ebay, Scrappydog, Enviromoto and NYC are good sources that I've used. NYC especially if you want some personal service and advice to go along with it.
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Post by thecableguy on Jul 14, 2016 9:42:55 GMT -6
I buy non-alcohol premium at a station near me, filling two 5 gal cans at a time and fuel my scoot with them. Since they only have a single hose, I'll put the first gallon in my car's tank, then fill the cans.
I top off before going on a ride if it looks like I'll go below half on the crappy fuel gauge since my scoot starts to have fuel delivery issues if I run it too low. (half on the gauge is actually about 1/4 tank)
It all just works easier this way, since most of the stations in Madison don't offer pure gas...
Jim
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Post by thecableguy on Jul 6, 2016 14:13:31 GMT -6
What CDI are you using? Most of the "performance" ones advance the timing at idle, making the scoot hard to start, just like you are describing. Try the variable timing performance CDI that John sells, it worked GREAT for the same problem I had! variable-timing-performance-cdi-nycsp0007 |
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Post by thecableguy on Jun 30, 2016 18:09:06 GMT -6
And with that info a quick look in the Manuals section of the board finds this... 139QMB manual threadOh, and here's another great place for parts. John's a great guy! Jim |
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