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Welcome to the forum, scooterbabe. That looks like a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. Check your valve cover to see if it fits there. A second possibility is that it connects to the emissions canistor which controls fuel vapors from the gas tank. I don't have this device on my VIP50, but maybe some other member may be able to pinpoint it.

What you proved with this test is that something is wrong with the needle jet diaphragm. If the main jet was plugged, moving the needle jet would have little effect. The diaphragm may have a small hole or tear in it and that would give you the problem you described. Lifting it manually showed that the rest of the carb is probably OK. The diaphragm can be replaced. Scroll down about 60% of the page. $7.95.

www.scrappydogscooters.com/Replacement_Parts.html

There are different schools of thought on winterizing a scoot.

I keep the gas tanks as full as possible with my scoots to prevent condensation which can cause rust in the tank and water in the fuel. Ethanol mix gasoline does not do well when there is water mixed with it. I use gas stabilizer year round.

Since my batteries are AGM types, I leave them in the scoot and charge them every 3 or 4 weeks through an auxiliary 12 volt jack using a Battery Tender Plus.

It's also a good idea to drain the carb if you are worried about it getting gummed up over the winter.

Fogging the exposed chrome and aluminum with WD40 will help protect from oxidation and rust.

I try not to start the scoots during the winter unless they can be brought to full operating temp by driving for a period of time. This helps prevent condensation and acid build up in the crankcase which can happen if operating for only a short time.

The method I described is stated in the Honda manual. When you initially fill the radiator to the top there will usually always be some air in the system. The overflow tank should also be filled 1/2 full. When the engine gets hot, the fluid in the radiator expands and the excess goes to the overflow tank. If there is any air, it also will be pushed out to the overflow tank. When the engine is shut off and the system cools down, it will suck coolant from the overflow tank to replace the air that was expelled when the engine was hot. This will result in a reduced amount of liquid in the overflow tank. Add more coolant to the 1/2 mark. Check over several heating and cooling cycles until the level in the overflow tank remains stable. This will occur when no more air is in the cooling system.

Opening the radiator filler under the seat or on the radiator can introduce more air into the radiator. It's a good idea to consider the radiator as a sealed system and maintain the proper coolant level at the overflow tank.

The radiator should be topped off when doing maintenance like regular coolant change and repairing a coolant leak. After that the overflow tank should be used to maintain the coolant level.

I agree partly with KZ. When the engine is off, the fuel petcock should prevent any gas from flowing since it opens only when vacuum is supplied by the running engine. However, when the fuel drain is open, the float will drop and the needle valve will open allowing gas into the carb. So, if more gas than what the float bowl will normally hold comes out of the carb when the drain is open, the fuel petcock is leaking. It could be stuck open or "globbed" up with foreign stuff.

If the float needle is in good condition then the gas flow into the carb will be stopped even if the petcock leaks once the operating level of the fuel is reached in the float bowl. It's possible to have a bad petcock and not even know it as long as the float needle works.

I'm guessing that the rear shocks are the culprits? WD-40 is not really a good lubricant. It's designed to be more of a penetrating and moisture absorbing solvent. The bushings where the shocks attach to the frame and swingarm may be giving a problem. They sometimes wear out allowing metal to metal contact. New bushings are the cure in this case. Check for any play where the shocks attach. This could be worn bushings. You also could be having problems in the area where the swingarm attaches to the frame.

Great to hear you're back on the road, KZ.

The way you described it, I would have guessed a clutch problem. On that assumption, I would probably have done the same as you and waited until I either had the time or the problem would work itself out. I'll keep this in mind if I start feeling the same thing. Thanks for sharing this success story.