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Post by Cruiser on May 28, 2013 21:28:57 GMT -6
Glad we could help, scootnoob. The forum is here for this purpose. If you and others do not use us for any problems no matter how small, then our primary reason for existing is lost. Members like you make our day, so thanks for asking what you think might be a stupid question.
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Post by Cruiser on May 28, 2013 19:14:49 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum. That looks like your speedometer cable. Here's a picture of where it attaches on my VIP50: In this case, you will also see the sender and magnet setup for my Sigma digital speedo which is attached to the mechanical (original) speedo cable. It looks like the cable pulled off the back of the speedometer itself. The end down near the wheel is most likely still attached OK. Here's a video showing the reattaching of the cable on a typical scoot:
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Post by Cruiser on May 22, 2013 17:33:21 GMT -6
Hi Steve. You might want to change the valve clearance that was given from (00.6 - 00.8 IN-EX) to .004 inch for intake and .005 inch for exhaust valve.
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question
by: Cruiser - May 18, 2013 11:16:51 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on May 18, 2013 11:16:51 GMT -6
Hey, Luke, if you want to avoid this scooter cancer in the future, use an AGM or sealed battery as a replacement on the scoot. Since they are sealed, there is no way for any acid to get outside and cause corrosion. My battery terminals stay nice and clean as well as the battery compartment.
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Post by Cruiser on May 12, 2013 19:21:43 GMT -6
You can try to reason with them... if that fails just declare " That's It... I'm done with you!" I have a feeling your scoot may turn a deaf gear (ear) to you and not cooperate with cookees suggestion. I'm surprised that cookees didn't suggest some sympathetic scoots from this place: www.hyproscooters.com/. He might even be a neighbor?
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Post by Cruiser on May 11, 2013 20:27:17 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum. I believe your scoot uses the Honda clone engine. In order to get to the battery and fuses you will have to open up the seat compartment. You will notice a plastic panel with two Phillips head screws towards the front of the compartment. That's where everything is. Click on the link to see what it looks like with the cover removed: www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12908075/640/12908075.jpgThere is a little black box with four 10 amp fuses for accessories. You will see two red wires coming off the positive terminal of the battery. The main fuse (usually 15 amps) is located on the thin red wire. If this fuse is blown, then nothing will work, so check it first. You will have to expose the battery every time you want to jump start the scoot. Connect the positive (usually the red wire) to the positive of the battery and the negative (usually black wire) to the negative of the battery. I recommend using another battery or a portable jump starter to jump start a scooter. The charging electronics are sensitive and can be destroyed especially when trying to use a car which is running. Make sure the car is not running if you use it for a jump.
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Post by Cruiser on May 10, 2013 23:40:55 GMT -6
You have a 12 volt battery and that's the voltage you will see if you take a good digital volt meter and measure directly on the battery. You should see at least 12.7 volts with the engine off and over 13 volts with the engine running.
It sounds like you have a meter installed on the scoot and it could be connected incorrectly or it is defective. If you don't want to mess with the meter, then compare the 9 volt reading to an actual reading on the battery and you can interpolate from there. Most scoots have inaccurate speedometers and we have to interpolate the readings after using a gps as a reference. So you could just do the same with your voltmeter, but I would be more comfortable with a more accurate reading.
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Post by Cruiser on May 10, 2013 18:34:31 GMT -6
This sounds almost like a classic open blocking diode problem. If this part is bad or the connection is lost, the battery will not charge and you will not have headlights or taillights. Here's a picture of the diode on my YY250T: It's the small heat sink device in the upper left hand corner with the black and red wires. Try disconnecting that white connector and jumper the connector on the harness side. If the headlights come on and normal charging voltage is present at the battery with the engine running, then the diode is no good. If no increase in voltage occurs with the engine running, then you have a charging problem.
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Post by Cruiser on May 7, 2013 18:38:01 GMT -6
Did you try turning your idle speed down a little?
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Post by Cruiser on May 5, 2013 19:32:18 GMT -6
Yea, looks like these wheels are larger than stock. The center stand does not mount low enough to hold up the scoot without the addition of spacer blocks. The front disc brake mounts on the opposite side. Front fender had to be remounted (replaced?) probably because of larger wheels and different forks.
Looks nice with the larger wheels and you now have a longer wheelbase. I think it looks better than the original.
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Post by Cruiser on Apr 21, 2013 18:50:26 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Apr 10, 2013 22:56:49 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Dec 9, 2012 21:20:11 GMT -6
Sounds like he's talking about the rubber seal for the rear trunk. I think you might have some luck using weather stripping like the kind used for doors or windows around the house. Might have to do some experimenting.
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 18, 2012 23:23:11 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 18, 2012 20:41:00 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, strikethebox. Although a tight brake adjustment would cause the wheel to drag and be hard to turn by hand, it would not cause the other problems you mentioned. It sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing which would cause the engine to stall when stopping (not going into neutral while idling). This type of clutch problem could also cause the wheel to drag while on the center stand. Try to adjust the brake first to see if it helps the problem. Good luck.
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