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Post by Cruiser on Nov 9, 2010 14:31:36 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 6, 2010 19:47:48 GMT -6
Congratulations, yoster. What wattage headlights are you running? Are you running 1 or 2?
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 6, 2010 19:43:28 GMT -6
50cc scoots use AC from the stator to run headlights. You cannot use LED's in place of the headlights unless you rewire for DC.
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 6, 2010 15:30:21 GMT -6
That R/R should work depending how the plug was wired up. As far as using one bolt to mount, that's how my OEM R/R mounts on my YY250T.  |
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 6, 2010 15:11:37 GMT -6
The old wet cell lead acid batteries produced hydrogen gas when charging. This is very explosive and that is why the remote connection to the ground terminal was recommended. The newer AGM sealed batteries are much safer. There will be no sparks if you make a secure connection on the battery terminals. I put 12v accessory sockets (cigarette lighter types) connected directly to the batteries on my scoots and adapted the charger cable so I can plug into this socket.
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 6, 2010 14:58:10 GMT -6
LED's are straight replacements. They are lower power than the original bulbs and no relays are required. You got the BadBoy horn at a great price. They are really loud. Your battery will have no problem powering the horn. The horns won't overload your electrics unless you drive with the horn on all the time. I have a set on both my VIP50 and YY250TT. Here's a picture of the install on the VIP50. This required splitting the compressor from the horns.  |
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 5, 2010 20:34:20 GMT -6
It's a little edgy looking, but I like it. It is still a conceptual design so they may soften the look for the market. BMW's in general have a high degree of reliability even with all the technology. This scoot could be a good deal as a 2 or 3 year old "pre-owned". It would be real interesting if they decided to build it in their South Carolina plant. An AMERICAN scoot.  |
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 5, 2010 20:03:49 GMT -6
Either the wrong one, or that Lance is using some different wiring scheme as our "reflex clone" scoots, though I'm pretty sure the wiring diagram in regards to the RR connectors is one and the same across all cfmoto engines. JRR/Cruiser - is that correct? I haven't run across any variations on the R/R on the CfMoto clones. Which one did you recommend? |
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Post by Cruiser on Nov 2, 2010 21:37:01 GMT -6
My YY250T acts exactly the same. A very firm rear brake with little brake handle travel. The front feels softer and has more travel primarily because of the "ABS" unit which dampens the brake action for the front brake only. I get a little squeak from the rear when coasting at low speed, but not when I apply the brake. If the squeak is not too loud and the rotor is smooth, you may just leave it as it is.
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Post by Cruiser on Oct 29, 2010 16:56:39 GMT -6
You have nothing but admiration and curiosity from me. Now, that 250cc build should be real interesting. Maybe there are other members with home built trikes that could start their own Home Build section on the forum.
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Post by Cruiser on Oct 28, 2010 19:25:16 GMT -6
Thanks a lot guys. I used to be cruiser66 but I forgot what comes after 66. Took me 2 years to find out I should be cruiser68. Well, I should be on track now for another year... Lemme see, that will make me 67?   |
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Post by Cruiser on Oct 27, 2010 18:49:19 GMT -6
Since I mentioned in an earlier post that the windshield should not shake, I decided to look more closely at the system on my scoot since some of you guys have rubber inserts for the windshield screws. These pics are from my spare nose piece which has the same windshield mounting system as my yellow scoot:   The mounting system in this case is large head Phillips head bolts with speed nuts. This will tighten very well and can even crack the windshield mounting tabs if you over do it. This is on a YY250T which has the same body as the MC-54-250B and A and the JCL MP250A. |
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Post by Cruiser on Oct 26, 2010 11:04:29 GMT -6
Hi axplayer. The belt and weights are the same that came with my scoot. Here is a link for the variator fan. It's a genuine Honda part, so you know it's good stuff: www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/280436-honda-22102-km1-010-hard-parts-face-driveDefinitely use threadlok (blue). I also used a lock washer and a nylock nut. Using an impact wrench to tighten can work if you have a feel for how much you are tightening the nut. I use a strap wrench and torque wrench and tighten to 80 foot pounds. I recommend using a torque wrench. |
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Post by Cruiser on Oct 25, 2010 16:40:28 GMT -6
The following is a popular mod to help cool the regulator/rectifier on the 250cc scoots.  The smaller R/R on the left is a cheap substitute for the original. It worked for a short while. The two on the right are the OEM R/R's. The fan comes from an old computer. It's a 12 volt 80 mm fan that fits on the heat sink perfectly. I drilled 4 holes through the side of the heat-sink and used zip ties to secure the fan to the heat-sink. I soldered the power wires to the output pins inside the R/R plug. These fans take very little power and do a good job of keeping the R/R cool. Here's a worm's eye view of the R/R and fan combo installed on my scoot.  |
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yy250tt
by: Cruiser - Oct 25, 2010 10:10:15 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Oct 25, 2010 10:10:15 GMT -6
If you jump that relay, all lights including headlights will come on without the key. Do the headlights come on? Also, we will have a much better chance of helping if you can send some pics especially where the wire is missing.
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